[RonHampe]

Engine cranks, but won't fire.

I'm 69 and this is the first older vehicle I've worked on in many moons so please bear with me as I have forgotten a lot.

I installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and the old rotor was stuck. I tried blaster and wiggling then decided to put a 1/4" x 1" flat bar across the flats to pry it off from the bottom. It took a lot of force and finally broke coming off. I've since read where prying it off this way can damage the distributor. Is that true?

I cleaned up the shaft for the rotor, then applied dielectric grease on to it before installing the new rotor. I also put some on each of the cap's interior contacts as well as the brass tip on the rotor. I wouldn't think so, but could any of this grease prevent it from firing?

Second issue is that somewhere along the line the tubing broke from the EGR solenoid to the carb. Could this prevent it from firing?

Would installing an HEI distributor, etc. significantly improve gas mileage?

Thanks

 

[RayVoy]

Ron, welcome aboard.

Spark, fuel and air, along with compression are necessary to run.

Did you check for fuel?

The first thing I try is a spray of fuel, or starter fluid, into the throttle body.
If it starts you have a fuel delivery problem.

 

[RonHampe]

Thanks I'll check but I replaced all of the brake lines and it ran fine while bleeding those just before changing these parts.

The fuel pump is next on my list though because the gauge is off by half a tank.

 

[RayVoy]

Look, I'm not trying to be hard to get along with; but test parts before going out and buying a new part.
The pump may be bad; but you don't know that.
Try spraying start fluid into the throttle body and if it starts, you know fuel delivery is the problem
Then you test the fuel pressure.

Note, it may not start because the spark may now require adjustment.

And explain what changing brake lines has to do with the vehicle starting.

 

[Cowboytrukr]

Ron, dielectric grease is an insulator. Translate not conductive. There is no reason to have grease inside the distributor. That needs to be wiped clean.

The vacuum line from the throttle body to the EGR just needs to be replaced or reattached if the hose is still good.

Finally, do not install an HEI distributor as it will not work. The HEI cannot trigger the fuel injectors.

 

[RonHampe]

Ron, dielectric grease is an insulator. Translate not conductive. There is no reason to have grease inside the distributor. That needs to be wiped clean.

The vacuum line from the throttle body to the EGR just needs to be replaced or reattached if the hose is still good.

Finally, do not install an HEI distributor as it will not work. The HEI cannot trigger the fuel injectors.

Thanks I've used it for years on battery connections and assumed it was a conductor. That may be the entire issue then.

Look, I'm not trying to be hard to get along with; but test parts before going out and buying a new part.
The pump may be bad; but you don't know that.
Try spraying start fluid into the throttle body and if it starts, you know fuel delivery is the problem
Then you test the fuel pressure.

Note, it may not start because the spark may now require adjustment.

And explain what changing brake lines has to do with the vehicle starting.

Look, I'm not trying to be hard to get along with; but test parts before going out and buying a new part.
The pump may be bad; but you don't know that.
Try spraying start fluid into the throttle body and if it starts, you know fuel delivery is the problem
Then you test the fuel pressure.

Note, it may not start because the spark may now require adjustment.

And explain what changing brake lines has to do with the vehicle starting.

RayVoy while I appreciate your comments I sincerely doubt that it is a fuel issue as it ran the day before to bleed the brakes. I bought exact fit brake lines none of which came even close to fitting so the fuel line running from the tank forward got jostled around quite a bit trying to fit those in before giving up and bending my own. I was simply speculating that some dirt may have come loose in those lines or the tank itself. The reason for changing the fuel pump is because the gauge is off by half a tank and I'm 69. My plan is to make as many repairs now while I am still young enough to do them. . It had 120K on it when I bought it in December 2021 and have only put 800 miles on it since for my part time woodworking business. Also suspect that Cowboytrukr may have identified the problem and will try that first.

 

[RonHampe]

My wife has bad knees and was having a really hard time getting into the truck so I dropped down two tire sizes and now have 225's on it but the speedometer is way off. Is there anything that I can do to correct it?

 

[Cowboytrukr]

On the ‘88-’91’s there is a way to cut in a DIP switch to correct for tire size, but I believe the only way to fix it in the newer ones is a memory flash.

 

[RayVoy]

My wife has bad knees and was having a really hard time getting into the truck so I dropped down two tire sizes and now have 225's on it but the speedometer is way off. Is there anything that I can do to correct it?

That's going to hurt the gas mileage. Why not go back to original tires and add running boards.

 

[udidwht]

If the ICM (ignition cont. module) is bad the injectors will not fire (no spark).

 

[cruzn59]

Agree with comment #10. The ignition control module under the distributor cap is notorious for causing the same symptoms you mention. I had the same problem with my '92 and the new unit I bought was bad too. I always kept s spare in the glovebox after that. It can go bad for no reason and will not let the ignition fire. Best of luck to you! Please let us know when you find the issue.

 

[Gold truck]

Engine cranks, but won't fire. I'm 69 and this is the first older vehicle I've worked on in many moons so please bear with me as I have forgotten a lot. I installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and the old rotor was stuck. I tried blaster and wiggling then decided to put a 1/4" x 1" flat bar across the flats to pry it off from the bottom. It took a lot of force and finally broke coming off. I've since read where prying it off this way can damage the distributor. Is that true? I cleaned up the shaft for the rotor, then applied dielectric grease on to it before installing the new rotor. I also put some on each of the cap's interior contacts as well as the brass tip on the rotor. I wouldn't think so, but could any of this grease prevent it from firing? Second issue is that somewhere along the line the tubing broke from the EGR solenoid to the carb. Could this prevent it from firing? Would installing an HEI distributor, etc. significantly improve gas mileage? Thanks

Try starter fluid. Try a screwdriver in a plug wire end to check spark. Check the wires that plug into distributor. It should be one of those. Try the fuse box I had a injector wire short out and blow a fuse .

 

[Gold truck]

Engine cranks, but won't fire.

I'm 69 and this is the first older vehicle I've worked on in many moons so please bear with me as I have forgotten a lot.

I installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and the old rotor was stuck. I tried blaster and wiggling then decided to put a 1/4" x 1" flat bar across the flats to pry it off from the bottom. It took a lot of force and finally broke coming off. I've since read where prying it off this way can damage the distributor. Is that true?

I cleaned up the shaft for the rotor, then applied dielectric grease on to it before installing the new rotor. I also put some on each of the cap's interior contacts as well as the brass tip on the rotor. I wouldn't think so, but could any of this grease prevent it from firing?

Second issue is that somewhere along the line the tubing broke from the EGR solenoid to the carb. Could this prevent it from firing?

Would installing an HEI distributor, etc. significantly improve gas mileage?

Thanks

Try starter fluid
Try a screwdriver for spark
It could be a fuse for injectors

 

[BackyardMech]

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