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1994 K1500 Silverado 5.7 TBI

568 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  BackyardMech
Engine cranks, but won't fire.

I'm 69 and this is the first older vehicle I've worked on in many moons so please bear with me as I have forgotten a lot.

I installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and the old rotor was stuck. I tried blaster and wiggling then decided to put a 1/4" x 1" flat bar across the flats to pry it off from the bottom. It took a lot of force and finally broke coming off. I've since read where prying it off this way can damage the distributor. Is that true?

I cleaned up the shaft for the rotor, then applied dielectric grease on to it before installing the new rotor. I also put some on each of the cap's interior contacts as well as the brass tip on the rotor. I wouldn't think so, but could any of this grease prevent it from firing?

Second issue is that somewhere along the line the tubing broke from the EGR solenoid to the carb. Could this prevent it from firing?

Would installing an HEI distributor, etc. significantly improve gas mileage?

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Ron, dielectric grease is an insulator. Translate not conductive. There is no reason to have grease inside the distributor. That needs to be wiped clean.

The vacuum line from the throttle body to the EGR just needs to be replaced or reattached if the hose is still good.

Finally, do not install an HEI distributor as it will not work. The HEI cannot trigger the fuel injectors.
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On the ‘88-’91’s there is a way to cut in a DIP switch to correct for tire size, but I believe the only way to fix it in the newer ones is a memory flash.
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