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Discussion Starter #1
so i went to check out the cap on my 97 gmc 5.7. Here is the strange thing i found why the miss. bad plug wire. While i was removing the plug wires my cap popped off on one side
I was like what the hell not pose to do that. i wiggled the cap and the entire thing came off. now it just sits on there. how do i get the cap to stay on when the bolts that came with it do not go tight? any ideas I wrapped the bolts with Teflon tape for now but its still not solid.
 

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Your only option is to replace the distributor, and actually that is probably why you had a miss since the distributors are known to act up like that.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys
 

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Let us know what you end up going with and how well it works out for ya.
 

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Sounds like GM really dropped the ball with these Vortec dist. I'll be looking at mine soon.
 

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Sounds like my old problem. Same exact thing happened to me and I ended up replacing the entire distubutor and no longer had a missfire.
 

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Can't the threads just be tapped out to the next oversize & replace the screws?
 

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Can't the threads just be tapped out to the next oversize & replace the screws?
No, Stephan...there realy is no room ! Once they are stripped..its almost gone , remember these are plastic...thats why i went with the e-bay one..all billet..kind of like an MSD ! Works super !
 

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I'm new here, but I think I've stumbled onto part of the problem(s) with the old distributors. My '96 5.7 truck was breaking rotors and scoring caps. Replaced both, and still had a misfire. Took out the old distributor and found a lot of end play in the shaft. Seems a gasket/spacer between the top and bottom halves of the distributor had deteriorated. Since the local parts houses were closed I improvised and installed an o-ring into the assembly to take up the slack. As for my theory about what was happening:
1. The end play caused the distributor shaft to thrust upwards when decelerating and push the rotor into the cap. 2. It also caused the Hall Effect sensor to misread the notch in the rotor.
I realize my fix is only temporary, as most Buna-n o-rings aren't compatible with detergents in engine oil, but thank to the links & suggestions above, I'll be ordering a billet distributor shortly.
Looking forward to learning how to keep the truck going here. It's just getting broken in @ 257k miles.
 

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Got that billet distributor in this weekend. It comes with a different retaining clip that doesn't allow the distributor to rotate like the old one. Unbeknownst to me, my old one was out of sync, so a pull out/drop in produced a hard start, but it ran enough to get me to work. Once there, I decided it needed to be corrected. Used the old retainer & kept moving the shaft 1 gear at a time. Couldn't get it right until I tried this trick:
This engine doesn't have a timing dial, so I unscrewed the #1 spark plug. Using a zip tie as a feeler gauge in the spark plug hole I turned the engine with the crankshaft balancer bolt until the zip tie was caught between the piston & head, then backed off just enough to get the zip tie out. With #1 being TDC, it is either in fire or exhaust mode. I then took off the cap & reset the rotor to the #6 terminal as it was closest to the position I had it in. A few rotations on the starter to align the oil pump shaft & make the housing drop in place and it purrs like a kitten.......
 

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ya its in there Josh... but hey thanks for pulling out this old thread... I just ordered one.... one of my screws is stripped...

thanks!
Al
 

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I'm new here and i have a similar problem with my cap and rotor that i just can not seem to figure out. I work on a lot of vehicles and have done a lot of research trying to find out why my truck is destroying the inside of my cap and rotor but i am at a loss. I have replaced the distributor with and aftermarket aluminum one but for some reason it is still coming up with a corroded cap and rotor within a few months of putting a new one on. It happens in summer or in winter and the truck will still start. It starts hard and you can hear it most definitely has a miss and i've replace the coil and ICM module with brand new ones from chevy. I have been going through and checking that none of the grounds are broken and cleaning them (found all the ground locations in the factory manual). I have also noticed that one of the screw heads inside the new aluminum dist is completely rusted like it is getting moisture but I just have no clue how this could be happening. I also live in California which is definitely not a very wet or humid/cold state by any means. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Check the bottom of the dist cap for vents... there are supposed to be 2 vents... if they are there make sure they are clean. if there is a screen poke it out. if there are no vents drill 2. if it cant breath it will corrode it is also my belief that the aluminum contacts are not the best... get copper.
 
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It does have vents i have checked those and they are clear, I've also tried factory distributor cap and aftermarket and both did the same. i have pictures of the last cap and rotor and the inside of the aftermarket distributor if that helps. Thank you very much for the quick reply. The pictures are kind of large so i didn't know if i should post them, looks like i can only fix one picture per post.
 

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drill the vents bigger? hmmmm man I feel your frustration... I had a hell of a time getting my truck started 2 winters ago and after a week of thinking it was a fuel delivery problem I finally figured out that it was the distributer... i got a new distributer and in the instructions it had mentioned the vents... except I didnt have any.

if you have the vents and they are clear then something else is causing the corrosion to happen. it is a chemical reaction but out of my expertise...
 
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well thank you for your help and i will keep trying to figure it out. I am thinking maybe something with the PCV system could be putting lots of moisture in the distributor if it wasn't functioning right but it passes CA SMOG just fine so i doubt it. no CEL.
 
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