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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a '99 K-1500 'Burban with a very sick engine.
Last winter, climbing a long 6% grade, I blew a main coolant transfer line for the heater core. With no way to repair the shattered PVC T-Joint, I tried to limp it about 6 miles home through hilly country. A severe over-heat caused an emergency shutdown, and while I was able to restart it and get it home, it hasn't been right since. Recently, I noted a massive increase in coolant usage (I can only spot one small leak at high RPM, it's far back at the back of the block and I can't localize). Also, I can't move it without noticing always, the smell of heat-tortured antifreeze. Finally, the terminal white residue has appeared at the top of my engine oil fill inlet. Never a good thing. Finally I can find no oil leak, but I'm using huge quantities... and while I'm CERTAIN that my engine is pushing coolant into the lubricated portions portions of the block, I'm now also certain that I'm burning large quantities of oil as well.

The odd note here though, I have no visible external oil leak.

This last has lead me, and just about everyone I've talked too that I either have an internal crack of some kind, or that at the very least, the severe overheat has caused damage to the cylinders as well as all seals, gaskets, and probably the heads as well, allowing for the burning of a lot of oil.

Further advice has lead me to conclude that an R&R is justified, effectively putting in a new engine (Almost certainly a remanned crate) as well as taking advantage of its dismantled state to replace other key wearable items and parts.

I guess what I'm asking is this:

*Any advice for a guy with basic shade-tree experience?
*Anyone have a link to a good step-by-step YouTube vid that actually shows the LT1 engine for this, and not the LS series?
*And while I found a thread asking, I saw no actual links: Has anyone found PDFs of the FSM (I have both the Haynes and Chilton's, and am underwhelmed) for the '99 'Burban K-1500 LT 4x4?
*Also, any thoughts out there on Jasper Engines and Transmissions? I'm looking hard at them for the following:
https://www.jasperengines.com/stock-performance-engines
*Or, does anyone have another source that they like for quality and customer service, as well as darned fine Crate Engines?

All advice and comments please! This will be my summer project with my eldest son, and I am looking to have as much fun with this as possible!

Thanks!
 

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That is the best kind of quality time you can spend with your son! My 11 year old inherited a 1967 C10 from his grandfather and name sake that we will be restoring over the next few years. The truck has been in the family for 50 years!

As for what to buy, I'm no help. I have always rebuilt my own engines, never bought a crate or reman. I was the 10 year old working on the car with my dad and grandpa, so rebuilding rather than replacing is in my blood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is the best kind of quality time you can spend with your son! My 11 year old inherited a 1967 C10 from his grandfather and name sake that we will be restoring over the next few years. The truck has been in the family for 50 years!

As for what to buy, I'm no help. I have always rebuilt my own engines, never bought a crate or reman. I was the 10 year old working on the car with my dad and grandpa, so rebuilding rather than replacing is in my blood.
JackE I don't have the tools, time or resources for a full rebuild... although I know it would be a whole lot of fun. Also, I'm reasonably sure that the unidentified damage to the block is beyond me. No... I think for my first time, I'd rather do an Rem&Rep and transfer peripherals. Once I've got the swap completed, I may take the old block in to have it examined. If it's not too badly damaged, or if it's something that research can help a relative noob do, I'll sideline it as a secondary project.

A secondary, but forward consideration here is that this will be an outdoor project. No Garage or Carport... so I'd like to keep my count of weekends from first bolt to last as few as possible.
 

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If you do an LT1 you will have to do a new ECM as well. You can get a replacement vortec with about 325 HP or so from blue print engines. Summit has them on there sight. As for Jasper engines, I have heard bad things, but have no experience with them myself. You can always get in touch with blue print engines, and get just what you want that will be a direct replacement for your 5.7l L31 engine. If not blue print engines, then GM crate engines. I have been looking into a swap for a long time, for my 97 5.7l L31, but my engine still runs to good to mess with.​
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you do an LT1 you will have to do a new ECM as well. You can get a replacement vortec with about 325 HP or so from blue print engines. Summit has them on there sight. As for Jasper engines, I have heard bad things, but have no experience with them myself. You can always get in touch with blue print engines, and get just what you want that will be a direct replacement for your 5.7l L31 engine. If not blue print engines, then GM crate engines. I have been looking into a swap for a long time, for my 97 5.7l L31, but my engine still runs to good to mess with.​
Actually Kenny, that right there is exactly some of what I was looking for. Thank you!
It's no secret that I'm new to a project this large, and you just got me past one of my biggest misunderstandings... I honestly didn't know the difference between an LT1 and an L31... Some quick research after your post, and suddenly I understand! Many Thanks! It's certainly an L31 I want. I surely don't need a flat torque/power curve... I want/need torque at the bottom end. That said, I've one question for clarity:
The Vortec is the L31, and the LT1 is the Sports Engine?
That's exactly what I wanted to know. I'll take a look at Blue Print Engines, and see what I can find. I'll also look at Summit. Jasper came recommended by the guys at my local Napa Auto... They've given good weight in the past, but cannot know all.

I'll also take a spin through GMT400.

Thank you!
 

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L31 will be much easier to swap into your truck, sence that is what you already have. Some time back, I was looking at phoenix engines, and posted to a thread on GMT400, about what I found when a member asked about crate engines. I got bashed for it by several members. Turns out they are not a good shop. I think Jasper is better, but I have looked very hard at blueprint engines very hard. Turns out that a rep from blueprint engines is a member on gmt400, so I have had contact with him. I asked about a 383 stroker for my truck, and he was very helpful. a 383 stroker is a 5.7L (350) with a 400 small block crank. There are torque monsters compaired to a stock 5.7L and blueprint makes a version that is a direct fit for our trucks. If you read through this thread, you can get blueprints contact info. http://www.gmt400.com/threads/blueprint-engines-reputation.39679/
 

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One thing to keep in mind, you have a vortec, CPI (spyder) injection engine, not a TBI engine. TBIs were from 1988 to 1995. In 1996 GM went to vortec, rollor cam engines and the HP went up about 40 HP. You want to stay with a roller engine. Also you may want to replace the spyder fuel injection system. A new spyder is around $200 I think, and there is an up graded spyder that has mover the fuel injectors to the end of the of the tubes where they should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
L31 will be much easier to swap into your truck, sence that is what you already have. Some time back, I was looking at phoenix engines, and posted to a thread on GMT400, about what I found when a member asked about crate engines. I got bashed for it by several members. Turns out they are not a good shop. I think Jasper is better, but I have looked very hard at blueprint engines very hard. Turns out that a rep from blueprint engines is a member on gmt400, so I have had contact with him. I asked about a 383 stroker for my truck, and he was very helpful. a 383 stroker is a 5.7L (350) with a 400 small block crank. There are torque monsters compaired to a stock 5.7L and blueprint makes a version that is a direct fit for our trucks. If you read through this thread, you can get blueprints contact info. http://www.gmt400.com/threads/blueprint-engines-reputation.39679/
I was just on Blueprint's web site. I'll need to spend some more time there, and see what I can see... I did send a request for help on the site, as one of my issues is that I live in an emissions sensitive area, and will need an engine that is emissions compliant. The engines I found were not, and I cannot believe that they don't have engines that are pollution controlled. I loved the look of that 383 Stroker... it's a bit pricey, but I can work around that when the time comes.
Summit was no help. I looked only long enough to figure out that they deal primarily in performance enhanced sport engines. A search by Make and Model came up with zero engines available.
I found my self next on JEGS, looking at GM Crates, and I liked what I saw, I think. LOL. What I saw was a mixture of confusing, and engines designed for the lighter trucks/vans with 5-Lug wheels. Also, I thought I knew the specs on my engine fairly well... but here is where the confusion pops in... and I'll nut this one out tomorrow. I could have sworn that my L31 was an EFI engine, and I kept seeing carbureted engines.

SO... I need to understand my engine better. I'll also call JEGS, as well as Blueprint, and see what I can learn.

I really did like the look and specs on that 383 Stroker though.... Hmmmm.... Maybe I can re-register my Beast in a non-pollution controlled county!

Thanks a million, Kenny.
All thoughts and info truly welcome! Much obliged!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One thing to keep in mind, you have a vortec, CPI (spyder) injection engine, not a TBI engine. TBIs were from 1988 to 1995. In 1996 GM went to vortec, rollor cam engines and the HP went up about 40 HP. You want to stay with a roller engine. Also you may want to replace the spyder fuel injection system. A new spyder is around $200 I think, and there is an up graded spyder that has mover the fuel injectors to the end of the of the tubes where they should be.
Aaaaaaaand there was your answer to my EFI/Carburetor confusion! LOL!!! I THOUGHT I had an Injector!
Again, thanks for that tidbit. No one had suggested that I should go ahead and replace the Spyder.
Thanks!
 

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im doing an engine re-build right now. l31 vortec 5.7 came out and thats exactly whats going back in. i also looked into crate motors but they didnt have very good responses on most of them. this could be for a huge number or reasons however i opted to not take that route. i pulled my engine and tore it down and took it to the highest rated longest in buisness machine shop in town and had them do all new parts except connecting rods. they built me a longblock and freshened up one head and replaced one head ( was cracked) for $2402.00 the best crate motors i saw with excellent reviews and customer service was blueprint engines. they were a little pricey but i feel they are totally worth it. i did a stock re-build as i dont race and am not looking for more power. i could of got a crate for 1800 but after shipping and taxes it was about the same as my re-build cost, but i know exactly what i have and i dont have to worry about shipping it back if something is wrong. i also got a warranty with it
 

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yes if you have the old CFI spider change it to the MPFI spider. i did it and it was totally worth it. its not IF the poppets fail its WHEN
 

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Hey Chris, I just did a replace last summer with a Surefire HP engine on my 1999. It's not a rebuild it is a brand new engine that is an upgrade over the original with about 10 more hp.

Here is the link https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/engine/surefire-hp-engine/420280_221656_11266

BUT don't pay that price. Find someone with a shop and have them order it for you and give them $100 for the trouble. The retail on this is $3100 by buying through my local service station autozone sold it to them for $1378 and I paid $1500

Even if you don't want this engine try to go through someone who can pick up a crate engine for you at wholesale!
 

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This is what you want to look for. A direct replacement engine for you year, or yeras of trucks. When you do your searches, look for vortec crate engine, or vortec replacement engines for 19996 to 2000 or something like that. Here is what summit offers from blueprint engines. This engine would be an easy swap, and work very well with your OE setup, thats what it is built for.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38303ct
 

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If you do an LT1 you will have to do a new ECM as well. You can get a replacement vortec with about 325 HP or so from blue print engines. Summit has them on there sight. As for Jasper engines, I have heard bad things, but have no experience with them myself. You can always get in touch with blue print engines, and get just what you want that will be a direct replacement for your 5.7l L31 engine. If not blue print engines, then GM crate engines. I have been looking into a swap for a long time, for my 97 5.7l L31, but my engine still runs to good to mess with.​
I’ve got a 97 2500. The ecm and connections were cut out by precious owner I assume he used it on another truck. I’m replacing it with a good running low mile 5.7 from a 96 Yukon. I’m ordering a new ecm programmed to the vin. Would that work with that engine correctly? Would use the Yukon ecm but it has a 4l60 my 2500 has a 4l80.
 

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I’ve got a 97 2500. The ecm and connections were cut out by precious owner I assume he used it on another truck. I’m replacing it with a good running low mile 5.7 from a 96 Yukon. I’m ordering a new ecm programmed to the vin. Would that work with that engine correctly? Would use the Yukon ecm but it has a 4l60 my 2500 has a 4l80.
Yes, that should work. You can swap over all of the wiring also. The Yukons ECM can be retunned for the 4l80E, but ether way you should be good. Just FYI, there is a forum just for 1988-1998 body style GM trucks. It is,
www.gmt400.com.
That forum is the number one forum for these trucks. Lots of knowledge there.
 

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Yes, that should work. You can swap over all of the wiring also. The Yukons ECM can be retunned for the 4l80E, but ether way you should be good. Just FYI, there is a forum just for 1988-1998 body style GM trucks. It is,
www.gmt400.com.
That forum is the number one forum for these trucks. Lots of knowledge there.
Thanks buddy. I’m gonna try to just swap the engine harness over and ecm for now. It’s not a rush to finish at the moment
 

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Yes, that should work. You can swap over all of the wiring also. The Yukons ECM can be retunned for the 4l80E, but ether way you should be good. Just FYI, there is a forum just for 1988-1998 body style GM trucks. It is,
www.gmt400.com.
That forum is the number one forum for these trucks. Lots of knowledge there.
The trans harness is the same for the two or is it different?
 
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