GM Truck Club Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,358 Posts
You should be able to fit 33's with a 2 1/2" lift but i'd say go for the 4" if you can. It will give you more ground clearance and more clearance for the bigger wheels. :great:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,888 Posts
Yeah, I think you would be able to handle just the lesser lift, but if would give you a non-critical extra 1.5" that you might find to be worth the extra lift. I know I love to sit up higher in any vehicles that I drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Is this a daily driver or offroad toy? Maybe a combo of both? It doesn't really matter I guess but if you are not vertically challenged like myself and plan on driving it everyday go with the 2 1/2 inch. If not go for the 4 inch. If your rear springs are in good shape I would suggest doing a shackle flip in the rear. They will give you the lift you want plus better articulation. It basically turns the factory spring from being mounted above the hanger to below the hanger. I will track down a few links and post them here for you.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm I run these have good things about them (my truck is still in the garage).

http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm Also some good things about the ones from diy4X4 as well. They are about 3/4 of the way down the page and are shiny yellow.

Not sure about other places but Offroad design can also get you the front springs to match your rear shackle flip. And on the ORD page there is a link to the write-up on www.coloradoK5.com. If you cannot veiw the write-up (without joining) and want it let me know and I will try and copy it for you. Good luck.
 
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is this a daily driver or offroad toy? Maybe a combo of both? It doesn't really matter I guess but if you are not vertically challenged like myself and plan on driving it everyday go with the 2 1/2 inch. If not go for the 4 inch. If your rear springs are in good shape I would suggest doing a shackle flip in the rear. They will give you the lift you want plus better articulation. It basically turns the factory spring from being mounted above the hanger to below the hanger. I will track down a few links and post them here for you.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm I run these have good things about them (my truck is still in the garage).

http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm Also some good things about the ones from diy4X4 as well. They are about 3/4 of the way down the page and are shiny yellow.

Not sure about other places but Offroad design can also get you the front springs to match your rear shackle flip. And on the ORD page there is a link to the write-up on www.coloradoK5.com. If you cannot veiw the write-up (without joining) and want it let me know and I will try and copy it for you. Good luck.
Oh wow. Never heard of that...

Yes..It would basically just be a weekend toy....and realistically....it will probably be ON the road more than off-road.

So you flip the rear springs...but install the 2 1/2 lift on the front springs....or flip them too???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,542 Posts
Before you lift this truck you may want to think about a few things.
Suburbans get terrible mileage.
Suburbans handle like a fully loaded oil tanker.
Suburbans have a lack of power (B/B Suburbans are an exception).
Suburbans have marginal brakes (1500 series).
This is all before a lift, are you ready for it to get worse?

Suburbans arent the best vehicle to lift because of the problems listed above. I'd recommend buying replacement factory height springs, replace the rubber bushings in the suspension with new poly bushings, and find some decent 31" tires.

Yea I know not the popular path in this thread, but I've done to a Suburban what your thinking about, I no longer own that truck because I created to many issues by lifting it and grew tired of having to repair and upgrade.
I suspect you'll be much happier with you Suburban for a lot longer time if you keep it mild.
 
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Before you lift this truck you may want to think about a few things.
Suburbans get terrible mileage.
Suburbans handle like a fully loaded oil tanker.
Suburbans have a lack of power (B/B Suburbans are an exception).
Suburbans have marginal brakes (1500 series).
This is all before a lift, are you ready for it to get worse?

Suburbans arent the best vehicle to lift because of the problems listed above. I'd recommend buying replacement factory height springs, replace the rubber bushings in the suspension with new poly bushings, and find some decent 31" tires.

Yea I know not the popular path in this thread, but I've done to a Suburban what your thinking about, I no longer own that truck because I created to many issues by lifting it and grew tired of having to repair and upgrade.
I suspect you'll be much happier with you Suburban for a lot longer time if you keep it mild.
Hey but that's an honest assessment from someone that's been there!

I appreciate that..

Let me ask you then..Why new springs for 31" tires? I can fit 31s on the stock wheels and I'm pretty sure they will clear since 31x10.50s are what my 1990 Blazer came with. I then upgraded to 32s and used the same 6-lug wheels.

So....do you know something here about my ride that I should know?

Is there a difference in suspension between a 1990 4x4 Blazer and a Suburban?????????????

Am I going to be unpleasantly surprised if I head down to Discount Tire and have 31s or 32s slapped on it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Oh wow. Never heard of that...

Yes..It would basically just be a weekend toy....and realistically....it will probably be ON the road more than off-road.

So you flip the rear springs...but install the 2 1/2 lift on the front springs....or flip them too???

You remove the factory spring hangers which has the shackle going up and install a new hanger that lets the shackle go down. It still gives a factory ride (if factory springs are kept) but supplies either 2 1/2 0r 4 inches of lift. You will have to buy a set of springs to match for the front.

I personally went with the 4 in shackle flip, and 3 inch springs in the rear and 6 inch springs and a 1 inch zero rate for the front for a total of 7 inches all around. Check out www.carolinak5.com (free for most things) and www.coloradok5.com (it is a pay site for some things). Tons of great information and links to the K series and burbs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,542 Posts
New springs because I'm assuming the present springs are factory, after 17 years they've got a lot of sag. New springs will give height, I've seen as much as 2" lift with factory replacement springs. Without the sag the ride and handling will improve.
I'd be willing to bet even with those large GM wheel wells you could get a 31" tire to rub with your present springs when cycling the suspension.

2.5" or 4" lift is gonna put the truck in the air and create more drag which ='s less MPG.

The suspension between a Blazer and a Suburban is mostly the same, rear spring rate on Suburbans is higher to compensate for the extra sprung weight.

Your rims are probably 15X8 which will fit upto (but not recommended) a 36x12.5. 31's or 32's will fit no problem, watch the width of the tire I'd stick with a 10" maybe 12" width at most.

I'd go 31" tires because anything bigger starts decreasing mileage a lot. The addition of unsprung weight (wider and taller tires) will kill your gas mileage.

Surprise, maybe tire rub if you put on new tires with the old springs, and the shop will probably tell you some steering components are worn and need replacing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,625 Posts
When lifting any vehicle remember you are putting more stress on things like the U joints. The angle of them is changed putting more stress on them. Other things to will be on different positions than normal and should be checked more often.

You may have to extend brake lines, cooling lines if you have rear heat.

Just be aware of the other things that a lift does.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top