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Discussion Starter #1
The Short Story is that I am having a battery drain problem that I have yet to figure out. I park in the backcountry and want a full battery charge after 7 to 10 days. Can I install a battery disconnect on the negative terminal? And, If so, what problems, if any, will I encounter ?
 

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Why not find the cause of the drain?

You need a meter that will handle amps.
Remove one cable
Connect meter between battery post and cable just removed.
Let the electrical system calm down, go to sleep.
Read the meter, there should be a current draw.
Pull fuses, one at a time (replace before going to next one) until the draw drops off, it may never go to zero.
Ok, you found the circuit, repair the problem, or leave the fuse out.

If you don't have a meter, you might find the problem after dark, leave windows down, walk around, look inside, something may be on. Maybe a light, maybe a fan, maybe the radio.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Has taken me a while to get back to this problem. Wired meter in series to negative battery terminal and pulled fuses. When I pulled the ICP/??? fuse the drain went to 30 miliamps. I removed and unplugged the instrument cluster and the drain was the same 30 miliamps. Therefore I assume the drain is in the Instrument Cluster so sending it for rebuild. I will let you know if the rebuild fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I received the rebuilt Instrument Panel and re-installed and plugged it in. A test of the drain shows that .124 AMPS when .005 amps is acceptable. Therefore I must conclude the IPC was not the problem, but some circuit beyond the cluster. So, I will continue to search. I am not sure what to do. Suggestions appreciated. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I need a what I think is called a pin-out wiring diagram for the chevy 2003 silverado hd 6.0 engine. I cannot find a match on any diagrams I find on the internet. Nor have I had any luck at two auto parts stores. There are 13 wires in a 24 pin plug to this instrument panel cluster. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When you pull the IP fuse, what else stops working?
I really don't know. Which is one of the reasons I need to get a wiring diagram of the wires that are hooked to the IP connector (13 wires total, which one is the power from the fuse and another that I presume is a ground). If I had a wiring diagram I could possibly go to each of the separate components and see what is or is not working.
More in next post of my efforts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: Where I am at: 1) I measure the parasitic battery draw from an in series connection to the negative battery cable. When I pull the IPC 10A fuse, the measurement drops from .124 to .003 (On a 10A scaled meter I assume this reads as 124 milliamps to 3 milliamps).
2) I then pulled the IP Cluster and took a new reading with IPC plugged in and fuse properly in place. IPC Plugged in reading was .124. With IPC connector un-plugged the reading was .003.
3) I had the IPC re-built. The readings do not change--a parasitic draw remains. The IPC was rebuilt so I assume it is good and the draw must be in a component beyond the IPC.
4) I have no wiring diagram for the 13 wires in the IPC connector. The power-in source is discovered. And, what I think is the ground is discovered.
5) I begin clipping wires, and there is no drop until the last wire (the ground) is cut, then the battery draw goes to .003.

MY CONCLUSION (and i would like opinions), the battery drain must be in the IPC.

However, I still feel I must get a wiring diagram and find out exactly where all these wires go!

Oh, and BTW, as a stop gap fix, I cut the souce power to the IPC and wired a switch on the panel so I can cut the power to the IPC when I turn the engine off.
 

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Wall, I'm not following how your taking the measurements, "from an in series connection to the negative battery cable" .

Current readings need to be done in series with the load.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for reply RayVoy.

A) I disconnect negative battery cable from the battery. I then attach one black (Common ?) lead of the multimeter to the negative terminal on the battery, and the red lead of the multimeter to the negative battery cable. I move the red multimeter lead to the 10A meter setting.

B) I pull the dome/interior cab lightbulb and set the door catch so interior lights do not come on when I open the driver door. I wait (usually about 30 minutes) for the multimeter readings to stabilize. This usually takes about 5 minutes and the readings stabilize to about .124 on the multimeter. When I pull the IPC fuse, the reading drops to .003. Therefore I assume there is a pull of .121 miliamps throught the IPC/DIC circuitry.

C) I test the IPC by reinstalling fuse, and un-plugging the IPC at the connection directly behind the IPC.

D) With IPC connector unplugged, the reading once again drops to .003.
 

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Ok great, that is the correct way to read current.

I can't think of any reason for 12v going through the IP and on to something else; if the 12v was to be used elsewhere, it would be tapped before the IP connection.
 
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