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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a long post, so apologies in advance. I'm trying to help an elderly relative figure out wtf happened to his truck. Unfortunately a lot of important details in this story are missing because trying to get coherent information out of him is a challenge due to his age.


As an overview, he has a 2007 Colorado with the three-way 4x4 option (2hi/4hi/4lo). It has just shy of 77K on the clock. He claims that prior to this incident he never had any brake work done before (no pads or anything).

This all started when he brought it to the local gas station in September for its yearly inspection sticker. At that time they stated that his brakes were shot and gave him a rejection sticker. He brought it back a day or so later to have them do the work. He doesn't remember anything they said, but the receipt he dug up has written "Brand new front pads and rotors and front left caliper" for $370.

Immediately after they did the work he noticed problems. When pulling away from a stop there's a strong vibration. (He says this feels like the antilock breaks are engaging). He says it seems to happen more often/be stronger when he pulls out turning right, not as bad when going straight, and he can't remember it ever happening when pulling out left. It doesn't happen when just driving down the road and rarely happens when coming to a stop.

He brought it back to the gas station a second time to have them figure it out. They apparently drove it around for a bit and did "something". He got the truck back, but the problem was still there, so he brought it back to them a third time. On this third visit the guy(s) working there said something about it "needs a new sensor bulb". I don't know if this is what what was actually said or if it got lost in translation.

At this point he gave up on the gas station and brought it to the local Chevy dealer. As is typical the dealer says the sky is falling. According to the printout they found it has "DTC codes C0045, C0030, and C0221", "DOC ID 2319397", and that there is/are bolt(s) missing from the front left hub bearing. They claim the wheels are about to fall off (literally) and that it's not safe to drive. They want over $2K to replace both front hub bearings and sensors (after already charging him $200 for the diagnostic). He refused the work and drove it home anyway, where it now sits. I've Googled around but I can't find any information this "DOC ID" thing and researching those codes gives me conflicting results.



Can anyone help figure out what's actually going on? Here's a list of some specific questions/issues and I'm wondering if people have any input:


1) There's some suggestion that the ABS sensors might be "delicate", "fragile", or "finicky" on this model and need special care when handling. Thoughts?

2) I've heard from multiple sources that the brakes on the 4WD version are more complicated than normal just in general. Does it make sense that a street corner gas station could screw things up so badly and not really know how to fix it? What's the probability they mangled the hub bearings or ABS sensors?

3) The dealer claims the truck isn't safe to drive in its current condition. Does that make sense given the situation or are they just trying to scare him?

4) Some people have the opinion that if you do a full brake job that involves replacing the rotors that you should really replace the hub bearings at the same time, whereas others say to only bother replacing them if they're worn. Given his truck has less than 77K on it, what condition would the hub bearings likely be at that point? Should they have been replaced along with the rotors?

5) The hub bearings and ABS sensors can only be purchased together as a kit, correct? One kit per wheel?

6) What's the average price for a Chevy OEM kit? What's the average price for an aftermarket kit that's new-in-box (not rebuilt or used) from a reputable brand? What are good brands to look at?

7) The dealer wants $2K to replace the hub bearings and ABS sensors for both front wheels. This price ONLY covers the bearings and sensors and labor (not new rotors or pads or anything else). If we assume that they use new-in-box official branded parts, is that a typical price for dealer work in this situation or are they taking him for a ride?

8) If he goes to an independent shop and uses good quality aftermarket parts, what would you expect the total parts+labor to cost him, as a rough ballpark? $500? $1000? $1500? etc

9) Should he bring it to yet a third place to get a third opinion?


Thanks in advance.
 

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 460k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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Based on your questions, I'm going to assume you aren't overly mechanically inclined. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 馃檪

I would get a third opinion. Local mechanic you (YOU) trust and have a relationship with. You do the talking. Don't let anyone else take the poor ol' man for a ride.

First thing, though, is get under it and see what bolts are missing. There is no reason to take the hubs off to change rotors, even on a 4wd. Something is screwy.

Wheel speed sensors can be purchased separate from the hubs, but will come with the hubs, generally.

Make sure all the lug nuts are there...

Can you get pictures? We may be able to just point at the missing bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Based on your questions, I'm going to assume you aren't overly mechanically inclined.
I mean I know the basics of vehicles, I know what struts and tie rods are, I just don't know anything about this model truck specifically.

Local mechanic you (YOU) trust and have a relationship with. You do the talking.
There isn't one: I don't live near him. I can try to find something for him online and try to get them to call me instead of him, but not much past that.

There is no reason to take the hubs off to change rotors, even on a 4wd.
Well I can't say for certain that they did, the only thing I know for sure is that somehow they seriously screwed up the ABS and that the dealer wants to replace the hub bearings for whatever reason.

Make sure all the lug nuts are there
I saw the truck after he got it back from the dealer when I was over there recently and popped off the plastic hubcap cover. Whatever "bolt(s)" the dealer is talking about aren't the ones on the outside as all the wheels have all six nuts on them.

Can you get pictures?
Not really no. He doesn't have a pit or lift or anything and there's no way he's going to jack the car up himself and crawl under it. The most I could get from him is maybe having him reach his phone around behind the tire and take a bunch of random snaps and pick one that looks like it shows something.
 

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 460k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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I mean I know the basics of vehicles, I know what struts and tie rods are, I just don't know anything about this model truck specifically.
Reading my prior statement on a computer now instead of a phone. I sound like a douche...Sorry. This came off poorly. Basics, but not grease monkey. Got it.

There isn't one: I don't live near him. I can try to find something for him online and try to get them to call me instead of him, but not much past that.
Is there a friend nearby who could recommend a reputable shop? The internet is a scary place...

Whatever "bolt(s)" the dealer is talking about aren't the ones on the outside as all the wheels have all six nuts on them.
Lug nuts. (y)

Not really no. He doesn't have a pit or lift or anything and there's no way he's going to jack the car up himself and crawl under it. The most I could get from him is maybe having him reach his phone around behind the tire and take a bunch of random snaps and pick one that looks like it shows something.
Send us those random shots! All of them, preferably labeled as to what we're looking at. We're down for a little Eye Spy to help someone out. Shove a light under there and get some shots from both sides of the vehicle looking across at the opposite tire. Try to eliminate shadows as much as possible. We can do a lot without him ever having to get under the truck. Maybe get him a selfie stick... :D
 

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A lot of times dealerships or other chain shops will use the who "It's not safe to drive" to trick you in to paying for their services. While this is not always the case it is very frequently.

So I suggest you get another opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Reading my prior statement on a computer now instead of a phone. I sound like a douche...Sorry.
No that's OK no offense taken, you're not the first person to ask that. I'm not remotely qualified to act as a mechanic so while I know the general idea of how cars are laid out I don't know a lot of the details. (And especially not a 4x4 truck since I've never owned one).

Is there a friend nearby who could recommend a reputable shop?
I have some other relatives in the general area but they all drive Toyotas and stuff, he's the only person with a domestic. Although a lot of those shops are probably dual these days so it's not a bad suggestion to ask them.

Send us those random shots! All of them, preferably labeled as to what we're looking at.
OK, I'll see what I can get. Labeling will be hard because I won't know what he took a picture of and he'll have trouble describing it. I think it would be better if you can try to describe the areas he should be pointing his camera at (like, more specific than just "the back of the wheel"). Or failing that, if you can find a pic on the web somewhere where the truck's up on a lift and someone's underneath with a camera zoomed in on the right place. Then I can email him that pic and say "try to take a picture like this of this thing here" and we'll see what comes back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A lot of times dealerships or other chain shops will use the who "It's not safe to drive" to trick you in to paying for their services.
Yeah I know which is why I was asking how likely it was in this situation that that's actually true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So he can't really get under the truck and the pictures he's been taking are mostly worthless. Maybe I can get something if I'm over there again soon.

FWIW, we called the dealer got an itemized breakdown. They want $350 for each hub bearing and $100 for each sensor ($450 total per wheel) and claim 7h total labor at $140/h.
 

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鈥01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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Feels like a bit of price gouging. The entire hub assembly with the bearing, rotor, abs reluctor, and the abs sensor, in one package is less than$160 even for the AC Delco one!

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 460k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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So I've heard this before, is AC Delco the top of the line best you can buy? Who made the ones that came on the truck from the factory?
AC Delco is considered an OEM replacement of equal or better quality. It's the "go-to" for this type of stock application.

The only other option I generally see, which costs a bunch more money, is the GM Genuine branded parts. You pay through the nose for those and I don't know the real difference between them and AC Delco. Perhaps someone can shed some light...
 

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Based on your questions, I'm going to assume you aren't overly mechanically inclined. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 馃檪

I would get a third opinion. Local mechanic you (YOU) trust and have a relationship with. You do the talking. Don't let anyone else take the poor ol' man for a ride.

First thing, though, is get under it and see what bolts are missing. There is no reason to take the hubs off to change rotors, even on a 4wd. Something is screwy.

Wheel speed sensors can be purchased separate from the hubs, but will come with the hubs, generally.

Make sure all the lug nuts are there...

Can you get pictures? We may be able to just point at the missing bolts.
Based on your questions, I'm going to assume you aren't overly mechanically inclined. Please correct me if I'm wrong. 馃檪

I would get a third opinion. Local mechanic you (YOU) trust and have a relationship with. You do the talking. Don't let anyone else take the poor ol' man for a ride.

First thing, though, is get under it and see what bolts are missing. There is no reason to take the hubs off to change rotors, even on a 4wd. Something is screwy.

Wheel speed sensors can be purchased separate from the hubs, but will come with the hubs, generally.

Make sure all the lug nuts are there...

Can you get pictures? We may be able to just point at the missing bolts.
On this generation of Colorados, the wheel bearings do need to come out to remove the rotors. Perhaps the dumbest thing I've ever seen. The rotor bolts to the backside of the flange that the lug studs are in, and it's a goofy bolt that you can only get through the dealer. The tone ring is very precarious on these ones, unfortunately. The slightly later models of this generation have a tone ring that is somehow built into the hub. I would say the 7 hour estimate could be a little light if the old hubs are rusted in. With two of us, it took a MONSTER slide hammer and prying on the back to pull the hub out of my son's 2012 Colorado 4x4. FWIW, I would for sure replace the hubs with a new tone ring if I were digging into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
AC Delco is considered an OEM replacement of equal or better quality. It's the "go-to" for this type of stock application.

The only other option I generally see, which costs a bunch more money, is the GM Genuine branded parts. You pay through the nose for those
OK thanks. Presumably the $350+100 that the dealer wants is for the GM branded versions then.

where is your friend located
He's over in east MA area.

I would say the 7 hour estimate could be a little light if the old hubs are rusted in.
Well that's almost certainly not the case here. The gas station replacing the rotors is what caused all this in the first place, and the dealer presumably had it apart during their diagnostics, so if any of the parts were initially seized they ought to be free by now.

FWIW, I would for sure replace the hubs with a new tone ring if I were digging into it.
I'll ask the indy about this when I finally get him to one. What's a good brand for these? I'm seeing prices anywhere from five bucks to a hundred.
 

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i have trq from 1aauto in my truck , after 2 yrs no problems, moog also makes them , i would like to help him , but i am not in the area
 

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OK thanks. Presumably the $350+100 that the dealer wants is for the GM branded versions then.


He's over in east MA area.


Well that's almost certainly not the case here. The gas station replacing the rotors is what caused all this in the first place, and the dealer presumably had it apart during their diagnostics, so if any of the parts were initially seized they ought to be free by now.


I'll ask the indy about this when I finally get him to one. What's a good brand for these? I'm seeing prices anywhere from five bucks to a hundred.
I am in Massachusetts. Message me. I'll see if I can head over
 

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The price the dealer wants is always high. My OEM pads and rotors for my 2014 GMC Sierra were $900 from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am in Massachusetts. Message me. I'll see if I can head over
Thanks for the offer, but given the trouble he had with the gas station he's not interested in a shade-tree doing any work on it and wants everything to be "official" now. He's old and scared and got spooked. I had a very hard time convincing him that the dealer was ripping him off (he kept insisting that any place that could do it for less than $1750 must be a scam).

If you know any good shops inside/around the northern half of 128 I think it's probably in good enough shape for him to get it there.
 

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 460k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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Though shaded, at least @ThundahBeagle could get underneath it and take a peak. All the work can be done "official", but he'd have someone without a monetary interest looking under there to get an idea of what's going on.
 

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Thanks for the offer, but given the trouble he had with the gas station he's not interested in a shade-tree doing any work on it and wants everything to be "official" now. He's old and scared and got spooked. I had a very hard time convincing him that the dealer was ripping him off (he kept insisting that any place that could do it for less than $1750 must be a scam).

If you know any good shops inside/around the northern half of 128 I think it's probably in good enough shape for him to get it there.

I resemble that remark, sir! Theres not a single tree in the yard! Ha ha. I understand if he has reservations.

A North Shore guys, eh? Lets see...Try Stadium Auto Solutions in Everett. Ask for Anthony. Clean and professional. Or go to Rodrigues Auto, next door to to the left. The place is messier, but they get the job done for less. If he insists on bringing it to a dealer, Moore GMC in Danvers has been fair to me.

Hope he gets it all sorted out.
 
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