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I have drivers side window switch that has been working intermittently.

At times, it is perfect. Other times, it locks up and will not move the window.

I have noticed if I am rolling the window down while starting the truck, it will stop the window, and the switch will become inactive for 5-20 seconds, like it needs to reset.

Any ideas?

Anyones else try this and see if they have similar experiences?

Thanks for the help
 

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I would recommend that you contact your local dealership for more information. They should be able to assist you further. Please feel free to keep me posted. Thank you.

Tricia, GM Customer Service.
 

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I have drivers side window switch that has been working intermittently.

At times, it is perfect. Other times, it locks up and will not move the window.

I have noticed if I am rolling the window down while starting the truck, it will stop the window, and the switch will become inactive for 5-20 seconds, like it needs to reset.

Any ideas?

Anyones else try this and see if they have similar experiences?

Thanks for the help
Should be under warranty....have the dealer replace it.
 

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I have the same issue with my truck.
2010 silverado 1500
Z71 Ext Cab LT model

Over the past few years I have experienced the same issue that was mentioned at the start of this forum. If I am eager and go to roll the windows down as I start the truck, or too quickly once the truck has been started, the window switch would not work for a few minutes, or sometimes until i restarted the truck.

Last week 2/22/17, I had this same issue again. The window unit would not actuate any of the windows. 30 minutes of driving later they started working. I got to my destination, came back out and went to drive home, had the issue repeat itself. This time it has not recovered.

Background info:
I replaced the window switch a year or so ago because the button for the right rear window was having issues connecting when I wanted to roll the windows back up. Note that the above problem occurred even with the stock window switch. The new window switched worked great and would only occasionally give a 5 minute non work event as described above.

Details:
The new window switch is receiving power, confirmed by the LEDs coming on in the switch, and by using a Test light.
All fuses are in working condition.
The window switch does not send power from the switch to the motor.
The window switch does not light up the window lock button, and hence the back windows can not be rolled down, even from their own door control.
The passenger window can be rolled down from the passenger side door switch.
I have swapped out the window switch unit, with the OEM unit that I kept after replacing it previously. This original unit responds the same way.
Power to, no power out, LEDS on.

Any suggestions?

I have just now unplugged the Negative battery cable, and the three harness connections in the driver side fuse panel (the one in the cab). I am wondering if this problem is due to a communication error between the computer and the window switch. I will check in an hour or so and see if the switch has reset itself.
 

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Unplugging the battery for 1 hour, and unplugging the 3 wiring harness connections did not solve the problem.
I am going to order a new window switch from amazon, on the off chance that my old switch went bad in the year it sat in storage.
 

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I am not sure the window switch Led power is the same power to operate the motor. Do you have a power window relay? have you tried substituting it? Do you have a wiring diagram to fix this issue.
 

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Silver, the '10 will have door module that is connected to the BCM over the LAN, the switches mounted on the upper side of the armrest are connected to/part of, the door module inside the armrest. This just a guess, but window open in the rain will kill electrical contacts in the switches.
 

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Ray, you are right about that as the newer vehicles use the BCM to control just about everything.
He says that he swapped out the switch unit but no joy. Could be a wiring issue back to the BCM but a diagram is probably the best bet to fix this.
 

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Just installed a brand new window switch just to rule that out. No luck. There are two wiring connections that get plugged into the switch. Does anyone have a diagram on which wires do what? Using a test light I can only find 1 wire that has incoming power on the larger wiring connector. Image uploaded
 

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Hmmmmm, mine were colour coded, couldn't make a mistake.
Are the connector exactly the same, there should be keyways to stop you from making a mistake.

Silver, I thought he said he had changed the switches and it worked for 6 months, gotta go back and re-read.
 

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Yeah Ray, reading his whole post it appears that he changed the original (OEM) out and it worked for awhile with some intermittent 5 min issues. Then he put the OEM one back in after to verify the newer switch which didn't change the situation. Then he replaced that with a new switch and still no joy if I am reading this right. We really need a wiring schematic to go further since I think the drivers door should be the master switch but it does have to interact with the other door switches.
 

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So here is an odd twist. I just started the truck up and worked the passenger window from the passenger switch. At the same time as working the passengers switch I worked the driver side switch. The driver side switch would sparatically start working but only while I had the passenger switch actuated. I was able to roll the driver side window down and back up in small increments. At the same time that the driver window module would work the window lock light would come on. So the window switch works it's like there is a miscommunication with the BCM maybe???thoughts?
 

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My thoughts are its time to get the VOM and diagram out to start checking for voltages and continuity to the BCM and back to the doors. I would start with the drivers door first especially if it has a wire loom that goes from the door frame over to the door. If it does have this wire loom then I would also check to see if there are broken wires in it. If you have the door modules in the door then it could be a fault in it as well.
 

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Problem fixed. I disconnected the rubber boot that runs from the door to the cab. I pulled out as much slack in the wire as I could and eventually found that a yellow wire had been broken (see picture). I added some extra wire so that there would be plenty of length and connected the yellow wire back up. Everything works fine now.
 

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Problem fixed. I disconnected the rubber boot that runs from the door to the cab. I pulled out as much slack in the wire as I could and eventually found that a yellow wire had been broken (see picture). I added some extra wire so that there would be plenty of length and connected the yellow wire back up. Everything works fine now.
Great, thanks for posting those the issues got resolved. I don't see a picture uploaded, though.
 
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