[wolf424242]

I have an 88 C1500 with a 305 and I want to install a remanufactured 350 but I don't kniw what to order. There are so many options such as a two or four bolt main and different lifters and such and I don't want to spend 1500 dollars for the wrong thing. What do I have to look for when ordering an engine so it will bolt right up to my 4l60e? I've done a ton of research to no avail. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[zippstripp]

Let me try to help. A 305 and a 350 use the same block and head design. Cylinder diameter is the only difference. If you want to put a 350 4 bolt main in your truck it will bolt right in. Try to keep the engine years pretty close together (Let's say '88-'93). As far as lifters and such, that's all internal components that doesn't affect bolt in. One more question? Is the '88 305 carbureted or throttle body?

 

[wolf424242]

Okay thanks. It is throttle body injected. What is the difference between a long and short block?

 

[CatastropheADJ]

Short block is a partially assembled engine it requires alot of parts to run. A long block is a partially assembled engine that requires some parts to run. When i say some i mean it needs a skilled mechanic, cleaning your old parts from an existing motor or buying; valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold, water pump, distributor and a bunch more, you gotta set the timing, all that crap. If you can't built a motor don't buy one of those. Buy a turn key motor, it's ready to run outa the box, has been tested and ran, timing is set, has EVERYTHING! Just needs a home.

 

[wolf424242]

Wow that's completely different than what I would have guessed. About how much would a turn key engine cost me? I've been looking them up for a while but it seems like the cheapest is around 5000. Is that typically what they go for or am I searching for the wrong thing?

 

[CatastropheADJ]

It's a lot. Keep the 305 (5.0l). If you're looking for power there's plenty of head and cam packages available for 1500-2500 dollars that would put you between 350 and 400 hp and tq. Also depending on the miles you'd prolly wanna rebuild the motor. The 305 kits are cheap, around $300. 2 buddies, a smart phone, Hayes Manuel, torque and tolerances, tools, cherry picker, engine stand, 2 cases of beer and a weekend can have that done.

 

[wolf424242]

I'd rather install a 350 because it wiuld give me more options for upgrading it and they seem to be more reliable based on what I have read online. I have been driving my 305 as a daily driver for months now with no oil pressure so I doubt it's in any decent condition. Wouldn't rebuilding the 305 be more of a pain than just getting a long block? I was looking at this one: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12568758
A turn key engine seems unnecessary considering I still have the parts from my 305 that I can switch over. I have never built an engine but I have done just about everything else to old cars and trucks over the years so now would be a good time to learn if it came down to it.

 

[phoebeisis]

Right
I like your idea-Forget rebuilding the 305-all that machine work?? all that time-learning curve-
just use that engine from Summit-it seems to be an actual GM engine??
you will easily be able to bolt on your intake manifold tbi dist etc might buy a new water pump-or rebuilt
yeah forget the turn key stuff-too expensive-forget rebuilding-heck it would still be a 305-and all the machining etc more potential for something to get screwed up-or to make a mistake reassembling it-and having to pull the engine-and fix redo something-learning curve-first time i do something complicated-fair chance I will screw it up-spending more time and money re-doing it-learning curve
Luck
Charlie

 

[CatastropheADJ]

Right
I like your idea-Forget rebuilding the 305-all that machine work?? all that time-learning curve-
just use that engine from Summit-it seems to be an actual GM engine??
you will easily be able to bolt on your intake manifold tbi dist etc might buy a new water pump-or rebuilt
yeah forget the turn key stuff-too expensive-forget rebuilding-heck it would still be a 305-and all the machining etc more potential for something to get screwed up-or to make a mistake reassembling it-and having to pull the engine-and fix redo something-learning curve-first time i do something complicated-fair chance I will screw it up-spending more time and money re-doing it-learning curve
Luck
Charlie

[MENTION=23183]charlie[/MENTION] I agree with that. Depending on your knowledge, and the possible machine work. But then again a long block is still alot of work.
[MENTION=62021]wolf424242[/MENTION] We all have our opinions.. But Mr. Wolf you're gonna have to do what best fits your ability and budget. Frankly there is no easy way or cheap for that matter.

 

[phoebeisis]

Catastrophe

Right- no free lunch. Nothing easy or cheap about changing an engine
The long block-more or less what he is getting except I think the one he selected comes with valve covers-maybe with a oil pan
Below is the list of stuff-plenty of work involved

e: Chevrolet Performance 350 C.I.D. VIN Code K Engine Assemblies
Summit Racing Part Number: NAL-12568758
Engine Assembly Style: Long block
Crate Engine Cylinder Head Material: Cast iron
Assembled: Yes
Engine Balance: Internal/External
Intake Manifold Included: No
Cylinder Heads Included: Yes
Carburetor Included: No
Throttle Body Included: No
Distributor Included: No
Oil Pan Included: Yes
Valve Covers Included: Yes
Timing Cover Included: Yes
Water Pump Included: No
Harmonic Balancer Included: Yes
Flexplate Included: No
Flywheel Included: No
Air Cleaner Included: No
Spark Plugs Included: No
Spark Plug Wires Included: No
Computer Included: No
Wiring Harness Included: No
Rear Main Seal Style: 1-piece

So yeah-pile of work-dist water pump flex plate flywheel etc- plenty of work-and plenty of ways to goof-
I'm not sure if the 305 and 350 flywheel flex plate interchange-and are they "bolt on" or do you actually have to balance then in some fashion?? Guessing they are bolt on-but wouldn't be surprised to find out there is something tricky about "bolting them on"

Still the drop in engines-are soooo expensive-
Nothing easy or cheap about changing an engine-

 

[wolf424242]

I don't have a problem with the distributor or water pump but the flywheel and flex plate are something I'll need to learn about, considering I don't even know what they are for. Would that engine be an easy swap in my truck? Not easy overall, but easy compared to my other options. I don't know if the fact that it has a one piece rear seal and a two bolt main makes a difference. Also, would I be able to install it with just this install kit or would I need more? http://paceperformance.com/i-514652...stall-kit-for-1988-95-gm-truck-5-0l-5-7l.html

 

[wolf424242]

Would that engine be an easy swap in my truck? By easy I mean easy compared to other options in this price range. I can use the distributor, flexplate, intake, throttle body, injector pod, and starter from my old 305. I don't know if the fact that it is a two bolt main makes a difference. Also, would I be able to install it with just this install kit or would I need more? http://paceperformance.com/i-514652...stall-kit-for-1988-95-gm-truck-5-0l-5-7l.html

 

[K15 Blazer Guy]

ive already picked everything out for my truck in this exact scenario.
ideally i want an LS engine... those are kick-ass...
but the cheapest engine swap/rebuild (while gaining HP) is this stuff right here

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-sp01
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30410007-m64
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66914c
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-21400002-16

and new pushrods.... but you can reuse everything else. the intake the sheetmetal, the flexplate, all of it

 

[Big6ft6]

I don't have a problem with the distributor or water pump but the flywheel and flex plate are something I'll need to learn about, considering I don't even know what they are for.

Flywheel and Flexplate are essentially the same thing, if you have auto trans your dealing with the flexplate. This is a big flat disc that mounts to the back of the engine to the end of the crankshaft (which sticks out of the engine and is sealed so soil doesn't spill out by either a 1 or 2-piece seal). The flexplate is sandwiched between the crank shaft and torque converter and is held on by a handful of bolts to the end of the crankshaft and another group of bolts hook it to the torque converter. (The torque converter looks like a big donut and acts kind of like a hydraulic clutch so when you slow down the engine can keep turning without turning the transmission input.)

The flexplate also has teeth running around the perimeter, these teet are what the starter engages to start the engine. So if you want to see your flexplate, take off your starter and peak in the opening behind it and you can see the teeth on the perimieter of the flexplate.

When putting in a new engine, get a new flexplate if your looks warped or has any missing teeth, they are not expensive so maybe just get one anyway. Just be sure to torque the bolts correctly to both the crank shaft and the bolts connecting the flexplate to the torque converter and use some loctite. I've had some bolts work loose that I failed to torque corretly and it scares the CRAP out of you when you think your new engine is making a horrible knocking noise...when in fact one of your flext plate bolts to the torque converter and ticking against the trans bellhousing!:shocked:

- - - Updated - - -

Would that engine be an easy swap in my truck?

Will it be easy? No. Is it doable and will you have fun and be proud? YES!! It doesn't matter what engine you get it won't be easy, the engine and components are not the hard part, so it doesn't really matter which engine you get. For example. The hard part is all the stuff that is impossible to plan for. In my case, my cherry picker wasn't able to lift the engine high enough to clear the front clip. So I had to remove the front clip. And I live in Wisconsin so the huge 3/4" bolts and nuts that support the body mounts under the radiator support were copmletely rusted would just spin in place. The bolts were down inside metal stampings that made it impossible to get at with a grinder. Getting those two bolts out took 50% of the time to do the engine swap. bolting the engine in and attaching new parts, that is the fun part, it is like playing with legos. It is all the extra stuff required to get to that point that will drive you nuts (siezed fastners, fuel lines that bend and break when trying to unhook them), but the creativity and challenge of overcoming these same hurdles will also make you so proud and happy when it is done. And you WILL get it done, and learn A LOT in the process. And no matter how hard it is when you're done, you'll look bak and go "That wasn't so bad!" and then you'll start convincing other newbies to go for it, and having thoughts like "hey I coudl buy that truck with the blown engine...all I need to do is throw a new engine in!!"