[BUDZILLA]

Just flipped 157K miles on my SubUrban Assault Vehicle this morning and the 5.7 is finally toast. What are my options for replacement; new or rebuilt? Any particular vendors that you guys prefer? Also, can I drop anything a little hotter in without having to change the tranny or rear end, perhaps a stroker? This truck is in excellent shape otherwise and I love it. It would be an absolute shame to trash it now. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Bud

 

[ChevyFan]

RE: 91 Burban needs a new motor

Hi, another crazy Suburban nut ... just like the rest of us!

What year is your Suburban? Are you looking for a delivered crate engine or do you want to rebuild?

 

[BUDZILLA]

It's a 91 4x4 with a fuelie 5.7. Right now I'm trying to find out the difference in price and warranty between a new motor and a remanufactured motor. I wouldn't mind dropping a little more torque into her either but not if it requires a new tranny and rear end. Can't go that route right now financially. Thank you for the reply.

 

[TrailLeadr]

Just curious how the engine died? Are you handy, can you fix it yourself?
New Engine is going to be approx $4000. Not sure about reman. Myself, I would rebuild depending on how bad the engine is. Probably could rebuild it yourself for about half of new engine, and that's replacing all but the block, and heads.

 

[ChevyFan]

Personally, I have never handled a new crate engine. I've always gone the remanufactured route, it saves a bit of money, and you can do some mods to it.

That being said, if I were to do another project now, I would probably get a crate engine, just becuase I don't have a whole lot of free time and I may as well get something with a warranty on it.

What do you want to bring over from your old engine? Are you willing to step it up with a hotter intake and fuel system? Headers? There are several options for what you want to do.

 

[BUDZILLA]

Just curious how the engine died? Are you handy, can you fix it yourself?

Funny you should ask, Traileadr. I was just driving up I-95 towing my bike on an 8x10 utility trailer doin about 65 mph when I started smelling some smoke. Didn't see anything coming my vehicle anywhere, so I figured it was someone passing or in front of me. A few minutes later I smell it again and see smoke blowing out of my tailpipe. Didn't really feel any loss of power cuz I instantly got off the gas. By the time I got off the road I could feel that I definitely lost a cylinder. There was some light smoke and what I assumed to be oil coming out around one of the cylinder's exhaust ports. There was also some seepage, of what I assume to be oil, around the oil fill cap on the valve cover.

Now, let me explain why I say, "what I assume to be oil."

This truck ran flawlessly before I had a Havoline Quick Lube place in New Smyrna Beach touch it on Saturday. It's too coinicidental to me that this happened only 50 miles outside of their shop. When out of town, I will use these places if I need a change. I went in for a 5/30 oil change and they recommended bumping it up to 10/30 considering the mileage on the truck (157K). They also recommended doing a "complete engine flush," which I had never heard of before but after reading about the product and speaking with the manager I figured, "what the hell....go for it." At this time, the rear diff and tranny fluids were really really black so I had them done too.

Problem now is, even if they messed someting up....how am I gonna prove it? As far as being handy....yes I am and with the help of my shop, my tools, and my buddy I could handle it. Too bad they're all at home in NC which is where I was en route too! I'm gonna have to pay a shop down here to do this for me.

 

[ChevyFan]

Problem now is, even if they messed someting up....how am I gonna prove it?

That's the million $$ question. At 157K miles it's harder to prove than at 57K miles. Did they give you any type of documentation that everything was running fine when it left? Are your oil levels low or was the pan drain not put back on properly? These are the things that I would look for and document.

If you made enough noise, you might be able to get something, but even a rebate towards what you paid for their services is at least something. I would at least ask for that, becuase if you don't ask, you don't get.

 

[BUDZILLA]

I've always gone the remanufactured route, it saves a bit of money, and you can do some mods to it.

What do you want to bring over from your old engine? Are you willing to step it up with a hotter intake and fuel system? Headers? There are several options for what you want to do.

Unfortunately, time and money are an issue right now. I always knew this time would come but not for many more miles. My plan was to eventually drop a 383 in it with headers. What are my options for intake and fuel system? Also, who did you deal with for remanufactured motors?

 

[TrailLeadr]

I know this sounds crazy, but have you tried to start the engine since then?

On the road you're probably not going to be as thorough with your assessment of the engine, as you would right now.

 

[BUDZILLA]

I know this sounds crazy, but have you tried to start the engine since then?

Yes, I went out and looked at it this morning. It started, still idled high, and was blowing smoke. Still had the 3 qts. of oil in it that I had to add during the slow ride home. I also went underneath and there was some oil dripping around the pan, on the filter, and on the front diff.

 

[TrailLeadr]

Just found this under a search for reman 350's.

http://www.theautochannel.com/autoparts/marine-enginesbestchevy/itemxse_649noy_4.html

It says it's a marine engine, but it's a standard rotation, not reverse. Decent enough price I'd say too.

 

[ChevyFan]

Just found this under a search for reman 350's.

http://www.theautochannel.com/autoparts/marine-enginesbestchevy/itemxse_649noy_4.html

It says it's a marine engine, but it's a standard rotation, not reverse. Decent enough price I'd say too.

Yeah, I'd say that's a good price for a reman these days.

 

[TrailLeadr]

Oh...sorry, I forgot you were looking for a 383.

 

[unplugged]

Quicky oil change? No thanks!

I've been burned by those quicky lube outfits. I'll pass on those $29.99 oil changes. I use a shop who has 3 master mechanics that charges $45/hr and I'll stick with them. It doesn't take a master mechanic to change oil, but I still wouldn't trust my vehicles to the knuckleheads at those quick joints. I consider the $65 dollars I pay for an oil change cheap insurance on a job well done. Quicky lubes have cost me a differential, one engine and a transmission, only one of which they fixed and they did a poor job of that.

 

[ChevyFan]

RE: Quicky oil change? No thanks!

I actually have gone to a quickly "10-minute" joint that took me about 45 minutes. At the end they said that they couldn't get access to the oil filter. This was years ago on a HO 5.0 mustang. I was thinking ... "WHAT?"

 

[TrailLeadr]

RE: Quicky oil change? No thanks!

At the end they said that they couldn't get access to the oil filter.

Probably had a n00b who didn't know where to find the filter. Or worse what it looked like, so they lied about it.

When I got my '01 Ranger, I used to go to the quicky shops, because I could keep a verifiable record of oil changes, and they cost less than having the dealer do it. I never would have figured someone could 'F' up an oil change. I don't go there anymore, since I don't need to prove to a dealership that I had regular oil changes for my warranty.
After hearing about these horror stories, I know I stick to doing my changes myself.

 

[rc1]

Motors

ATK Engines sells decent remans. Google them they have a website.Trouble is if your traveling most any shop will certainly rob you on installation charges.Some wont install anything they dont sell.They do this because they make more money on parts markup than on labor charges.
If you can limp it home then change out the motor you might be better off.I live in western NC myself.