GM Truck Club Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

561 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
well 1st this happened awhile back and some of the pictures were killed buy my daughter so i have mostly steps for this........sorry.
well i hit 320,000 miles and i had a new pulse and sound from the front end. i thought it was time for pads and rotors so i got ready for the job.
i went to NAPA and got thenew pads (i was going to hold off on the rotors until i looked at mine)

ok--now to the work......i pulled the center cap off the front wheels and loosened the lug nuts alittle (this is easier than with the wheel in the air)
then make sure the e-brake is on and the rear wheels are chocked.
now jack the front one side at a time (use the correct jack placement- user guide) then place a jack stand under the frame.
now remove the lug nuts (i do one wheel at a time so if i get lost i can look at the other side for reference)
i put the tire under the car (so if the jack and jack stand fail the car will fall onto the tire and not the ground)
i decided on super cleaning the front end and soaked all the parts with super purple clean and used my pressure washer to clean all the parts. it is better to work on a clean car)
i then lay out the needed tools and removed the master cylinder cap

i now lay out the needed tools (it was an hour after the washing so the street was dry)since i was here i decided to grease all that i could.
now i used the 3/8" allen socket to remove the caliper bolts and i set them aside. i needed to use the screw driver to put a small gap between the pad and the rotor then i removed the caliper and hung it to get it out of the way for now.

the rotor will now just slide off the hub. i looked and measured the rotor and it is well within speck and no groves so back on it goes.
i pulled the caliper pad off the opposite side of the piston. this will allow my tool to reset the piston in the caliper pushing the old pad. once done the pad in the caliper just pops out.
i took the ned pads and seated one in the caliper and the other on the outside making sure the clips lined up in the holes.
i then put the caliper bak onto the rotor and reinstalled the bolts and tighened to the factory specks.
i then greased the steering joints and ball joints (use a rag wipe the fitting and fill with grease)
now reinstall the wheel and lug nuts i got just past hand tight untill i get it back on the ground.
remove the jack stands and jack and tourque the lug nuts to the correct specks.
leave the rear chocks for now and complete the other side. once done i replace the master cylinder cap and press the brake pedal many times until it is firm. i then will start the car and press the pedal a few times.
now get out and look at the master cylinder fluid level and adjust as needed.
now remove the wheel chocks and restart the car and test the pedal if firm release the e-brake while holding the pedal and see if they hold if so go for a test drive. i seen a few different ways to seat or break in your new brakes but i seem to follow the slow longer stop a few times and then get to a long open srteach and get to speed and hard slow (not lock the tires just a fast slow not stop) and let cool for a bit (no foot brake pressure and repeat 3-6 times and return home check fluid level and front end for leaks or things out of place.if all is good put all the tools away and clean up and log your work in your service sheet.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts