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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've been on here for years and have honestly always just searched the threads and always found the answer to my questions. Well, I'm stumped and I'm pretty sure it's going to be simple at the end of the day. Here goes:
I can go out and start the truck with no issues anytime the truck is cold. It will run for a couple of minutes and then it will quit. If I'm on a road or highway where I'm at a good speed, the truck will often idle down but will start back up or maybe the better way to describe it is it will lose all power but will come back after 5 to 10 seconds. In the event the engine completely quits, I can sometimes get it to start again in neutral but often that doesn't work and I have to pull off the road, pop the hood, and assume the so loved position of "Where's the problem". Once the truck cools down or at least sits for a good bit, I can get it started again. It seems to run okay if I can get up to a good speed although that's not always the case as I said before.
I've checked my grounds and all seem good. The temperature sensor connector has the wires exposed but nothing is broken. I taped them up. The fact that it starts when cold leads me to believe that everything is "good enough" for it to start and run. The fact that as soon as it gets a litte warm and quits has me befuddled. A backfire caused a fire in the TBI years ago but I just put it out quickly and only some insulation was burned off the wires going to the injectors. I taped them up and it's been running since then. I replaced the fuel pump and changed the fuel filter even though the fuel pump still had good pressure. No change. I replaced the idle air control valve. No change. I replaced the EGR valve. No change. These were all suggested by a mechanic friend in the oilfield.
The truck has 378K miles on it, engine never rebuilt, has good compression, and started every time and ran with no issues until March of 2021. It quit on me on my way to church one day and I couldn't get it restarted so I pushed it into the yard of a neighbor and upon returning from church he had put a 04 GMC Sierra with 6.6 for sale in the front yard. I needed to leave the next day for work in the oilfield so I bought the truck. I parked my 350 for 5 months, then drove it again for a couple of weeks, and then parked it until 2 weeks ago when I drove it from Carthage TX to Jonesboro and then Jonesboro to Midland TX.
Thank you ahead of time. Any help is appreciated.
 

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1988 C1500 Silverado, 5.7L with some go fast parts.
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The 1st thing that comes to mind is your ICM and/or Ignition Coil, a common issue with these trucks. How old is your distributor? Check your wires and connections inside and to the distributor. Put a scanner on it and see what's going on when it starts to die and when it doesn't start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
PlaywithTBI and 90's1500guy, I pulled my distributor cap and rotor, checked all plug wires and the ignition coil (which is only 5K miles old). The truck still started until I unplugged the wires from the ICM and plugged them back in. Now the truck won't start at all. Suspicious at a minimum. I've ordered a new cap and rotor, ICM, distributor pickup coil, and ignition coil just to cover all of my bases. I'm still out here in West Texas for a couple of weeks and have company transportation for that time so I'll be okay until late this week or better when the parts arrive. Does the whold distributor have to come out to replace the pickup coil?...or isn't there a smaller rod that comes out that allows replacement?
Thank you for your help gentlemen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, I replaced the Ignition Control Module and now the truck starts but it now runs really rough and will not get above 1500 rpm even with the pedal to the floor. When it's idling, it dies after about 30 seconds. If I start it with just the key, it will spit and sputter, barely remaining running. My plug wires and rotor are only 35K old. I pulled everything and checked all wires and the rotor and cap and all are in pretty good shape. Whatever has changed did so last week when it quit and wouldn't start up again. Thanks ahead of time for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would replace the ignition control module under your distributor. When they begin to fail they can cause a variety of issues that can lead you to believe you have a fuel delivery or ignition coil issue. Good luck!
Okay, I replaced the Ignition Control Module and now the truck starts but it now runs really rough and will not get above 1500 rpm even with the pedal to the floor. When it's idling, it dies after about 30 seconds. If I start it with just the key, it will spit and sputter, barely remaining running. My plug wires and rotor are only 35K old. I pulled everything and checked all wires and the rotor and cap and all are in pretty good shape. Whatever has changed did so last week when it quit and wouldn't start up again. Thanks ahead of time for the help
 

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Check engine light must be on?

Clear the codes, restart the engine and let it run for a bit until the CEL lights up.
Then read the codes and let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess it's time to buy a code reader. Thank you, I'll do that. Is it possible to get the distributor rotor 180 degrees backwards?
 

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‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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No code reader needed for the ‘95.

You just need a paper clip.
Find the OBD port just Under the dash.

Font Rectangle Parallel Number Pattern

Jumper A&B and watch your service engine light flash codes. The first will be one flash, then two. That represents a 12. It will do that three times. Then it will present any stored codes in sets of two groups of flashes, three times for each code. Finally, it will return to the 12 code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you very much Greg. I'll do this in the morning once we get back to the hotel before shower and bed. Silly queston (perhaps), is it possible the check engine light won't be on? I ask merely because I don't remember seeing it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I put the paper clip in but the check engine light didn't come on. The light saying "Check gages" comes on when I turn the key on and stays on, but it never flashed. I tried the paper clip with the battery off and then turned the key to battery, I tried it with the battery on. I did it each way several times with no success.
 

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‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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Does your cigar lighter work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have power to the cigar lighter(s), but nothing I plug into them shows getting any power. I used my multimeter to check though and all 3 have 11.35 volts. Yes, my battery is low. I had to jump start it yesterday.
 

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‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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I ask because the cigar circuit powers the OBD port.

There‘s an odd chance that the SES bulb is burned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Of course. I know that there's no such thing as a stupid question but I feel like that one got close.
When the key is turned on, should all of my warning/notification lights come on? Is there a key position or "way" to test all of the warning lights? I'm planning on keeping this truck (I''ve already had it for 17 years) and I'm going to begin making upgrades, starting with the bulbs. Is there a bulb type or a color of bulb I should stay away from for the instrument cluster?
 

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‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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Depends on your preference for color.

Yes, if I recall correctly, at key on, you should see all warning lights. it has been almost 2 years since I had my ‘95 short step so memory is slipping.
 
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1988 C1500 Silverado, 5.7L with some go fast parts.
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When the key is turned on, should all of my warning/notification lights come on?
Yes, when you turn the key to the "run" position, the SES light should flash once and then stay on steady. The rest of the lights should stay on until you start cranking.

Yes, if I recall correctly, at key on, you should see all warning lights.
I was just typing when you replied, ha ha!
 

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‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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SOT: The only stupid question is the one we never asked.
 
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