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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.

I have identified a coolant leak at one of the rear heater hoses of my 1996 Suburban. The hose is located at the rear of the vehicle on the passenger side above the exhaust. The coolant appears to be leaking from the connector right below the body and dripping down the hose and onto the ground.
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Leg Auto part


My issue is that I am not sure of the best way to repair this leak. I assume I need to replace the connector but the replacement connectors for this vehicle I see online do not look the same. The Dorman 800-401 connector (picture attached) for example is a metal connector with threads, while the connector currently on the vehicle (picture attached) appears to be black plastic.
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I have not disconnected the line yet because I do not want to risk breaking the existing connector before I have a replacement lined up.

I have also attached a part diagram that I believe shows the hose/connector in question (#1/#2 on the diagram)

Line art Auto part Line Drawing Diagram

Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
 

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2001 Suburban 5.3L, 300.2k miles
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The quick connect fitting is crimped to the rubber hose. There is an o-ring inside the quick connector that gets hard and leaks. The challenge is how to release the connector without breaking it. There is a tool you can buy from any parts store to release the plastic connector from the metal tube. Or you have to get a new hose assembly.
Since the connector is crimped to the rubber hose, you can just cut the rubber hose below the crimped section, remove the plastic connector, insert the rubber hose to the metal tube and use a hose clamp.
 

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2001 Suburban 5.3L, 300.2k miles
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2001 Suburban 5.3L, 300.2k miles
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There is an 0-ring inside once you remove the white plastic lock.
Lube the new o-ring with a plumber's silicon grease you can get from HD.
 

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2001 Suburban 5.3L, 300.2k miles
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Looking at the leak area again, I think your hose is leaking at the crimped section of the rubber hoe and not from the quick connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think you're right. So I went ahead and cut the hose right before the metal crimped section and just attached the freshly cut rubber end to the metal fitting with a hose clamp.

As expected, the "Quick" connector was a PITA to remove. I ended up just using a screwdriver to break the plastic tabs off until the hose finally came off. It was on there really snug. This is what it looked like when I first got it off, there were several o-rings and what remained of the plastic retainer stuck to the metal fitting.
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And here's what it looked like when I removed those and wiped down the fitting.
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Here it is after I cut the end off of the hose and clamped it on.
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And finally here is the aftermath of the connector for reference.
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I've run it for about 30 minutes at operating temperature and so far so good. I haven't seen any signs of it leaking. Whereas before it would be dripping constantly whether the engine was on or off.
 

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A little late to the party on this one. One thing to do if you didn't already. Slide the hose up past the rib on the metal line and put the clamp above the rib. I would even double clamp it just to add a measure of security against it coming off. I have seen this repair done this way, but not going above the rib and it will eventually pop off and leak all the coolant out while you are driving down the road, with you having no idea until you overheat the engine.
 

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Ok folks.... I'm about to lose my mind regarding this topic. I ended up here after a couple hours of watching youtube videos, several trips to O'Reilly's, etc. Maybe I can get some advice / counseling / consoling lol. The tubes that run down past my engine were leaking and so I replaced them. At the point where these disconnects are under the passenger side, I came across these same disconnects shown here and yes, I broke off the white clips. So I'm simply trying to put it back together but its been about a month since I took everything apart. It was a big revelation for me to find out you can buy the white clips at O'Reillys which are made by Doorman. But it looks like from the aftermath photo above there are a couple white rings that are part of the assembly. I don't see these for sale anywhere but I could go back and check my garage floor.... honestly I thought those were just parts of the white clips that I broke when I took it apart. And I only thought there was one rubber O-ring inside the black coupler. It appears that there are more???? Here is why I'm asking. I'd like to put this back together the way it was. I don't want to cut the metal coupler off the existing rear hose and splice it back together just yet, only as a last resort. Where can I get these white washers? Is there a diagram that shows what they look like, etc?
 

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2008 Yukon XL, 1996 K1500 Suburban
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Great thread thank you! I am going to go with the old school double hose clamp method. I inherited a 1996 K1500 Suburban LS with about 200k. I don’t need the rig but I like keeping things alive. Anyhow the one I have is doing this exact thing and I figured why mess with a new hose when I can fix for a few dollars or less. Wanted to confirm someone else thought like me on this one.
 

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Agreed; great thread. Guys at AutoZone pointed me to it tonight, as it looks like I may have a similar issue. Tonight, while backing into our driveway, a line/connector snapped in the rear passenger area of our 1996 Chevy Suburban K1500 4WD LT V8 Vortec. I’m no mechanic, but we believe it’s the rear heating line, filled with universal antifreeze, if I’m not mistaken.

If I’m understanding this thread correctly, you opted for whatever reason not to use the 800-401 part, but instead had success in cutting the crimped hose end off, pushing it past the lip and then double clamping/clamping either side; right?

Any downside to this technique? If not, I’ll likely tackle after work tomorrow as it’s 13°F out right now. I bought the stainless steel clamps and some 50/50 universal antifreeze in, to re-top, after.

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Just FYI, if you notice, those quick connectors are located where the lines go from the frame to the body or body to frame. Imagine taking the body off the frame and where you would have to disconnect those lines. I have read that the only reason they used those connectors was ease of assembly in the plant. It's fine to get rid of them and just use hose clamps.

I have a 94 Suburban and I'm developing leaks where the rubber hoses are crimped onto long runs of rigid pipe. Like in the foreground upper left of that last pic. I plan to cut out those crimped connections, replace the rubber with new hose, and use hose clamps to reassemble. I do plan on lots of 'extra' hose to put on two clamps.

Great thread!
 

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 480k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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We have multiple vehicles running clamps instead of the quick connects. (Nothing quick about the disconnect...) Have seen no issues doing it this way.
 

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Glad this thread is still going! I have the same issue but I’ve noticed 2 of my lines are leaking. I’ve attached a picture. I’m planning on using the two clamp method to replace the quick connect that’s leaking, but the other hose has a bigger sheath around it, does anyone know if the clamp method would work on that too?
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