[pikefisher]

Thanks for looking, My ABS light came on then went out for a while then came on, then off a while, now it is on all the time. Possible brake shoes? I have good pedal and stopping power, was towing a popup camper when this happened un hooked the trailer same thing, light stays on . 2005 Silverado.

 

[bazar01]

Thanks for looking, My ABS light came on then went out for a while then came on, then off a while, now it is on all the time. Possible brake shoes? I have good pedal and stopping power, was towing a popup camper when this happened un hooked the trailer same thing, light stays on . 2005 Silverado.

Could be as simple as cleaning build up on wheel sensors or cracked solder joints on ABS computer.

Mine turned out to be cracked solder on the brain. Reflowing relay solder joints on the pcb inside the brain turned off both the ABS and brake lights in the dash. Hardest part of the job was removing the brain from the pump assembly under the truck and opening the box secured by rubbery sealant.

 

[01SilveradoBeast]

My dash lights all malfunctioned for no reason. It started with my ABS light and eventually worked it's way around. I know in 2001 models, this was notorious. My dad has a 2004 and his did the same thing a few months ago. If there's no other symptoms, I bet that's what it is. I think the ABS light is only SUPPOSED to come on when the ABS does.

 

[pikefisher]

What to do about a dash light malfunction? Can I fix?

 

[01SilveradoBeast]

I think the whole cluster needs to be replaced, sadly. There was a recall for the instrument cluster for your year model actually (and mine, but that shipped sailed many moons ago).

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/silverado-fullsize-pick-ups-21/instrument-cluster-problem-5275/

http://drspeedometer.com/silverado-speedometer-recall

HOWEVER, if it continues and all of your other functions and lights don't whack out (if I recall, it took a couple of months for all mine to start coming on at random) it could very well just be that your front ABS sensors have a short and need to be replaced.

Have you scanned the OBDII for any codes? I think if the sensors were malfunctioning, there would be a code...otherwise it's the dash panel Silverado gremlin.

 

[McClintoc]

[MENTION=60171]pikefisher[/MENTION] I'm just looking to eliminate possibilities but have you recently purchase new tires?

 

[pikefisher]

No on the tires, any one know if it hurts any thing to drive this way? We have a trip planed.

 

[99'HEARTBEAT]

No on the tires, any one know if it hurts any thing to drive this way? We have a trip planed.

Regarding....."hurts any thing to drive this way? We have a trip planed."

From the 2005" Silverado Owners Manual, it Expresses the following regarding the ABS Light,

Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light:
With the anti-lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and may stay on for several seconds....That’s normal. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.

If the light stays on, or comes on when you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. You will also hear a chime sound when the light is on steady. If the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti-lock brakes. If the regular brake system warning light is also on you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there’s a problem with your regular brakes. In addition to both lights, you will also hear a chime sound on the first occurrence of a problem and each time the vehicle is shut off and then restarted

 

[pikefisher]

Thanks heartbeat: As long as its not a danger, I will use it and ask the shop when we get home ,thanks for all the reply's.

 

[j cat]

with the ABS light on I would check the front hubs. also measure the front hub wheel sensors for proper AC VOLTS when rotating the hub at a good rate by hand. the voltage must be above .3 volts AC. a good new sensor puts out .5 volts AC or more.

you can also have the GM specific ABS code retrieved and post here for a better idea on the failure.

these codes require a special GM code reader.

the proper repair if the hubs are defective is to purchase hub with a calibrated sensor .

I would only use Timken hubs . stay away from Chinese parts with this .

 

[travisn]

Could be as simple as cleaning build up on wheel sensors or cracked solder joints on ABS computer.

Mine turned out to be cracked solder on the brain. Reflowing relay solder joints on the pcb inside the brain turned off both the ABS and brake lights in the dash. Hardest part of the job was removing the brain from the pump assembly under the truck and opening the box secured by rubbery sealant.

any more info on this? Pics? thinking of giving this a shot

 

[bazar01]

any more info on this? Pics? thinking of giving this a shot

Which one? The wheel sensors or the ABS computer?

The wheel sensors are easy.

The ABS computer develops cracks on the solder. It needed to be taken out from under the driver side frame rail. If I remember, I did a search on YOUTUBE and found the repair step by step. I'll see if I can find it tonight. You need to get the codes pulled to check which component is failing the test.

 

[travisn]

Sorry, the reflow part. I've been planning on just replacing the whole unit as I found some posts talking about the power/ground wires to the motor corrode. I can't find one on ebay for less than $150. Might have to go crawl around in the junk yard but idk if I have time or motivation to do that. haha

 

[bazar01]

Sorry, the reflow part. I've been planning on just replacing the whole unit as I found some posts talking about the power/ground wires to the motor corrode. I can't find one on ebay for less than $150. Might have to go crawl around in the junk yard but idk if I have time or motivation to do that. haha

Good luck finding a good used one from the junkyard that will last.
Just crawl under your truck and fix it. You can drive it while it is out for repair, just make sure you cover the surface where it came from very well with plastic.

 

[j cat]

Sorry, the reflow part. I've been planning on just replacing the whole unit as I found some posts talking about the power/ground wires to the motor corrode. I can't find one on ebay for less than $150. Might have to go crawl around in the junk yard but idk if I have time or motivation to do that. haha

why are you jumping on the ABS unit as the problem . you do any troubleshooting ? get codes ?

the front hubs are the biggest problem with this abs .

 

[travisn]

why are you jumping on the ABS unit as the problem . you do any troubleshooting ? get codes ?

the front hubs are the biggest problem with this abs .

The lights been on the whole time I've had the truck and I've changed both hubs/cleaned out the sensor area (which wasn't that dirty/covered in metal bits)

 

[j cat]

The lights been on the whole time I've had the truck and I've changed both hubs/cleaned out the sensor area (which wasn't that dirty/covered in metal bits)

replacing the parts is half the job. the voltage must be measured as I described in my earlier posting.

also any rust or metal on the sensor pick up means the hub is no good. also the hub must come with sensors that are calibrated to the hub . your testing of these NEW hubs is required to ensure they are correct.

the ABS failure codes must be revealed to be sure that the ABS module is the problem . this module is very expensive to replace NEW !

the ground connection has to be removed and the frame and connector must be sanded wire brushed to provide a solid ground. just be sure to remove the battery ground connection first.