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Discussion Starter #1
Whose going to use it?? I was thinking of picking some of that stuff up and using it in the truck being I heard so much good about it, I 've been using valvoline hard driving synthetic for the last few years and love it. Only thing with with the royal Purple is the cost!! but hearing about the savings in gas milage and extra horsepower picked up got me thinking a second time about getting some.

Also do you have a favorite type of oil and what do you think of it?
 

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I usually slide into those "Jiffy lube" places. I guess if I tried royal purple I'd have to take it in with me. I've heard good things about it too. I usually just use Castol GTX 5W30.
 

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That's a good question. I've been wondering what I would use for my engine's break in. Now that you mentioned Royal purple, I wonder if it would be any good for engine break in.
I'll have to look into it.
 

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I found this article...Question? since I've been using regular Oil is there anything I should be awhere of to switch?


"Royal Purple Motor Oil is recommended for use in all four-cycle gasoline engines and both two-cycle and four-cycle diesel applications including cars, trucks, motor homes / RVs, boats, commercial fleet and stationary industrial diesel engines.

Royal Purple Motor Oil is a tough, long life, high performance oil that delivers superior protection and enhanced performance to gasoline and diesel engines. It gains its performance advantages from a blend of synthetic oils plus Royal Purple's proprietary, synthetic Synerlec additive technology.

Synerlec additive technology greatly reduces engine wear, including ring, cylinder and bearing wear. It is extremely tenacious, adheres to engine surfaces and remains after shutdown, which provides protection upon initial startup.

Environmentally Responsible: Royal Purple Motor Oil extends oil drain intervals. Less oil is purchased and less oil is being disposed of—It's good for your vehicle, and good for the environment!

Multi-Grade Oils: SAE 5W20, SAE 5W30, SAE 10W30, SAE 10W40, SAE 15W40, SAE 20W50

Straight-Grade Oils: SAE 30, SAE 40, SAE 50

Royal Purple Motor Oils are compatible with other mineral and synthetic motor oils.


Royal Purple's motor oils are API certified and will not void new car warranties. Royal Purple recommends waiting until the manufacturer's first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines before using Royal Purple. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before use in diesel engines."
 

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Here ya go
How should I break in my motor with your oil?

We recommend using a quality mineral-based oil for break-in purposes. As a general rule, follow your engine builder’s guidelines. On street setups, the rings should seat within the first three or four times the engine is brought to temperature. After the rings have seated, change to Royal Purple. It is not recommended to break in an engine using Royal Purple, as the film strength of the oil may not allow proper seating of the rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's good you found that information there for the break in. I know I've switched back to dino oil with my car after using synthetic, I loved the syn but seem like I didn't get compression in my car at one point, probably because I let the oil stay in for a long time too.. (almost 6 months)

The oil my truck had before I bought it was some crazy type, don't know what that dude was thinking, changed to valvoline and got nothing but power and a nice engine muffler sound.
 

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hey trailleadr do not put syn in a fresh rebuild unless you know you have quick set rings use reg oil for a 100 miles then change it to 100% syn. if you use the 100% @ start up it takes forever for the rings to set johnny
 

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I have done several UOA tests on several brands of oil in imports. The results are really a matter of preference and availability. In my imports (turbo, high RPM) I use penzoil platinum exclusively now. The PP was not the best on UOA but the price makes it that way. The biggest plus of it is that you can go straight to walmart and get 5 quarts for $25. If I were to look at the absolute best without considering price, then run Amzoil.

Either one of these will do what you want them to do. The RP is good, but IMHO it's not worth the added expense. It's the same $ as Amzoil.

For the break in question. I'll just tell you what i've found in my testing.
Todays syn oil is really only as good as dino oil untill it gets contaminated. The syn has the tendency to not break down and loose lubricity (is that a word??) like dino oil. As far as break in for rings goes, we have not had any issues with proper seating of rings on new race engines. This may have to do with the way we break them in as well but that's another debatable discussion. The real point I want to make here is that when you're assembling an engine, you're using alot of molly based assembly lubricants on your bearings right? This stuff doesn't mix well with engine oil, even though the engine oil will break it down. So this is why it's suggested to change your oil after about 100-300 miles of running the new engine. On a complete rebuild, i'll actually replace the oil after running in the cam. So my oil gets changed out after a total of 45 minutes of run time. It's not worth dumping good synthetic oil out at that point so I always run in with dino, then dump it after cam run in and tuning. Then I run synthetic there after.

If you're not sure on the switch time, i'd rather not argue my methods here but run dino oil for cam break in and tuning, dump the break in oil, and refill with dino once again. Run that for 1k miles, then switch to syn and you'll be good. There is no longer a procedure to switch to syn because all the synthetics of today do mix with dino, so no worries of oil separation when you're switching.
 

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I have used Royal Purple forever and IMO they are the best synthetic fluid mfg out there. I run it everywhere I can as long as it meets warranty requirements. In GM vehicles that is oil, tranny fluid( do not use it in place of the autotrak II fluid ), diff's, power steering, and coolant( Purple Ice additive ). It is AMAZING stuff!:party: I even use their MaxFilm lube spray on my boats and guns.

You can run RP from day 1 in an engine. I have done it many times in my drag( racing that is :tongue: ) days. In my new vehicles I usually put it in at 2500. I then swap it at 5000. After that I do it every 5000 while under warranty. You can go longer if out of warranty.

Great stuff and you will be doing your vehicle a big favor using it. However, do NOT buy it and expect it to increase your HP. It's fluid not a cam or other mechanical device. If you swap every area over that you can to RP it will help a little because it will reduce friction and thus free up some HP but it is not much. You will notice it a little at 1st but after a day or two you get used to it. What you will really notice is how much smoother and effortlessly your truck/car seems to move. Almost like it is on greased ball bearings if you swap over at least the oil & diff's.

It can help your MPG in the .5-2MPG rannge depending on how many areas you use it.

I am a loyal RP guy for life!
 

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Who makes Royal Purple?
 

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royal purple

I have used royal purple from my first oil change to 22000 miles now and had good luck with it smooth as ever so far change the oil every 10000 miles change the filter at 5000
 

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what if we do a group buy since most of us here are using either 5w30 / 10w30 ? that might drop the price down a little when we get it bulK?


just an idea :)
 

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I have used royal purple from my first oil change to 22000 miles now and had good luck with it smooth as ever so far change the oil every 10000 miles change the filter at 5000
what filter are you using to change at 5k? and also how do you change the filter at 5k and the oil at 10K? special filter that just disconnects?
 

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im an amsoil guy myself. use it in everything and doesnt effect the warranty i.e eng, trans, diff, antifreeze, fuel additive...everywhere and in all my cars. and just like NHSliverado said about RP it seems to make your truck/car move smother. and because my family has a dealer account i get it for a bit cheaper than RP.

as far as oil and filter changes go i use the mobil1 filters and change same as NH, filter at 5000 and oil at 10000.

will be receiving my case of some time next week for all the fluids in the new Silverado.
 

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Baby oil...

Royal Purple. Used Amzoil in my race cars for several years, the benefits far outweigh the extra expense. John Singer (sprint car engine builder) tested Royal Purple on the dyno, & got small h.p. gains from reduced drag in the engine, mostly lube system. Freed up horsepower, didn't produce it.
What's a $40 oil change as compared to the cost of rebuilds, fuel, wear & tear?
To quote one of the SCCA racers I know, " Just f***ing do it!":biggrin:
 

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Just an update to the earlier post of mine. Royal Purple MaxATF is fine to use where Dex III is called for but it does not meet the new Dex VI spec that my 07 NBS calls for unfortunately. Got to look elsewhere for your ATF if your vehicle calls for the new Dex VI fluid. 2006 models were the 1st to call for the new fluid spec/formula.

I got my 05 as a new leftover in March 06 and it called for Dex III. Got the NBS this past March and just assumed it called for Dex III as well. Hadn't heard about the new Dex VI thus my earlier post on this back in like April mentioning I would run RP in the trans.

NOTE
- BlueLT1500: I change the filter and oil at 5K. I do not go 10K on my oil. Not while under warranty anyway.
 

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what filter are you using to change at 5k? and also how do you change the filter at 5k and the oil at 10K? special filter that just disconnects?
You can change the filter on any vehile while the oil pan is full. You only lose approx .5-1qt( max )of fluid. So you just swap the filter as you normally would and then top off the oil, with new fluid, to bring it back to full.
 
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