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Discussion Starter #1
I've noticed latley that when I am braking from very low speeds, like creeping forward in line at the traffic light, that the brakes like to grab real hard, making the truck lurch to a halt. I know this is probably one of those simple things that I'm not thinking of, but I can't remember what would cause this or what the solution would be. I need to rotate the tires on the truck, so probably when I get around to doing that, I will inspect the brakes. However, this is kind of annoying when I'm creeping along and the brakes flat out grab and stop the truck. So, what am I forgetting that's the solution to the problem. Thanks
 

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Does it feel like back or front grabbing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's somewhat felt like each of different occasions. I'm guessing it's probably the front, but a couple times (mainly when I was facing downhill) it felt like it was the rears.
 

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It's somewhat felt like each of different occasions. I'm guessing it's probably the front, but a couple times (mainly when I was facing downhill) it felt like it was the rears.
Your going to need to remove and inspect, rears might have leaking wheel cylinder? Not sure why fronts would feel that way. Front pad low?
 

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Most burb owners would be thankful to have those kind of brakes. A lot of older burbs are not so great in the braking dept.

You don't sound very grateful....I'm just messin with ya.:tongue:

Does this only happen when the vehicle is first driven after a long sit (ex:eek:vernight), or all the time?
 

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Mainly just from an overnight sit. IIRC, it happened once or twice during the day one day, I was going to get lunch, and then at the end of the day when I was heading home.
 

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Mainly just from an overnight sit. IIRC, it happened once or twice during the day one day, I was going to get lunch, and then at the end of the day when I was heading home.
I wonder, does this have anti-lock brakes?

If it does I wonder if the ABS could be malfunctioning?

Just a thought.
 

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Pull the front wheels off and check the condition of the caliper assemblies. Pay close attention to the bolts that the calipers slide on. Crud or rust can cause problems. Spray the caliper bolts with WD40, being careful not to get any on the pads/rotors. See if that helps. Otherwise it could be a problem with the proportioning valve, but that would be rare. Good time to check the pad condition while you are there.
 

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Nice catch

Pull the front wheels off and check the condition of the caliper assemblies. Pay close attention to the bolts that the calipers slide on. Crud or rust can cause problems. Spray the caliper bolts with WD40, being careful not to get any on the pads/rotors. See if that helps. Otherwise it could be a problem with the proportioning valve, but that would be rare. Good time to check the pad condition while you are there.
Good point, I always try to remember to put anti-seize compound on those bolts so that they can slide freely.

It is good that we have so many different people on here, so that others catch the things that some forget about.

Dam STML, I think it’s getting worse.

I was talking to a friend yesterday and in mid sentence just forgot what I was going to say.

That’s one of the reasons I try to write all my posts in word and then copy and paste my answer. That way if I forget what I'm talking about I can go back and reread all the previous posts.

If it gets much worse I may find myself stopping posting, or talking. LoL
 

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Mainly just from an overnight sit. IIRC, it happened once or twice during the day one day, I was going to get lunch, and then at the end of the day when I was heading home.
At one time I had similar situation. Turns out that my axle seals were leaking into the brake drum. Once the heavy oil mixed with the brake dust, it actually made a heavy pasty glue. It would lock my brake shoes to the drum when the parking brake was applied for a long sit. So that when I would start to move, it would either drag the tire then break free, or for the first couple miles it would grab like the dickens when I stepped on the pedal. After it got some heat into the drums it would stop grabbing so hard.

Pull your brake drums, and check for a greasy substance. You're brake shoes will be shiny black instead of the typical dull charcoal gray.
If that's the case, replace the shoes, your axles seals, and clean the hell out of your brake assembly. (it's a very messy job, and doesn't clean up easy)

Set aside an entire day to do this job. You'll need half the day to clean, and replace the brakes, and seals, and then the other half to clean yourself up. (dawn dish soap, and an old toilet brush will help the job go faster.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I went over to the high school where I graduated from and used their lift (I was in the automotive class in high school and I'm friends with the teacher), pulled the rear drums, and found that my rear passenger seals are leaking. So, if you could give me a slightly more detailed rundown on the process of changing the seals and such, that'd be awesome. My haynes book is VERY sketchy on the whole pulling the seals and such. Unfortunatley, it looks like I won't be able to use the lift to do this job though, so it's gonna be a tough one for me. The teacher was saying that I'm going to have to bring the axle to a machine shop to press the bearings and seals on. Is this true in my case, or can it be done by myself? Thanks as always trailLeadr
 

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I just spent last Saturday doing the same job to my 99 Burb. I was getting a grabbing feeling when I was just about to a stop. Pulled the wheels and sure enough the l/r axle seal was leaking gear oil into the brake drum and soaking the shoes with fluid.

I decided to just replace both rear axle seals, brake shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware and while I was already dirty I installed the Nickel Plated drive shaft yoke that I purchased to solve a clunking/thumping noise that I had. Also replaced both U-Joints on the drive shaft. This fixed my problem by the way also.

Now I have a 2500 series so changing my axle seals was quite different from a 1500. I am not sure about having to press any bearing out? I think you just pull the diff cover remove the keeper bolt, push the axles inward until the c-clips fall out and then slide the axle out. Install your seals into the axle tube housing and reverse the procedure to reinstall. Just make sure that nobody rotates the ring and pinion while you have the axles out or you will be in trouble. :) :) Honestly I am quoting this from memory and it has been awhile since I turned a wrench so I could be way off base here and I suggest you get a book or a good mechanic. :) :)

Rc
 

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I really wish I could guide you on this one. But I have a 2500, and I'm pretty sure my axle is different than yours. However you shouldn't need to have the bearings removed to get the seal out. I can't put my hand on my book right now, but I'll take a look at it later, maybe it can help shed some light on this for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
to be quite honest, I don't know what axle I have....it looks like an axle to me lol. If I don't need to pull the bearings, should I have them replaced regardless, since I have the axle out? I wanted to pull my diff cover and replace the fluid in the differential anyways, so that will give me a chance to do that.
 

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to be quite honest, I don't know what axle I have....it looks like an axle to me lol. If I don't need to pull the bearings, should I have them replaced regardless, since I have the axle out? I wanted to pull my diff cover and replace the fluid in the differential anyways, so that will give me a chance to do that.
Might as well. No point in waiting, and pulling it all apart again later.
I'm fighting with my computer setup...I haven't had a chance to even look for my book. I just popped on here to check my connection. Sorry. I'll post what I find in the book as soon as I can.
 
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