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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Recently I have been trying to install a remote starter. I just got over some issues that the person caused.

Anyway, can any wiring issues, or computer issues make my 1999 chevy sonoma's breaks go to the floor, and breaks not slow vehicle down at all.

Facts
  • Break fluid level is full
  • This was a sudden event that was there once i got my truck started up again from my whole security issue situation ( http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/th...all-remote-starter.812209/page-2#post-2024840 )
  • Breaks work a tiny bit.
  • I dont think it could suddenly be that all my break pads need to be replaced, plus there is no metal to metal rubbing.
  • Pedal goes down very easy
  • Pedal returns to normal position when foot is removed
  • pumping doesnt appear to make break pedal tighten up
  • Dont be concerned, I am not driving my truck at this point (because the breaks and because its not inspected, but mostly the breaks, I do have limits)
So, can a situation like this be caused from a wiring issue and should I spend any more of my time looking into wiring being the culprit.. Also, my tail lights are not turning on, but I am convinced that has to do with the wiring the last dude did on the truck. Maybe the same wiring that is messing with my breaks? That is the question. Wires and breaks. I searched this forum. If you find something that pertains to wired and breaks not working for a sonoma, please tell me what you put in to the search. I tried here and on google. I assure you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Nope....sounds to me like your master cylinder is shot
ok cool. and its not possible that wiring up near my steering column being messed with could mess with the master cylinder?

I was under the impression that it wouldnt be easy to push the breaks at all if there was a part broken,. Cause without it, the break pedal is harder to push down then the usual pressure you find in good breaks? my break pedal is very easy to push down, which I thought means break pump was working,. if it werent for my wires tweaking out lately, this would have my mind so much more direct in how to question this issue.
 

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The power booster is that big thing behind the master cylinder...It runs off of vacuum from the engine and is not electric at all....The master cylinder is hydraulically operated and the only electrical connection would be to the brake light, which would trip if there is not enough pressure.
 

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Robert , Brakes concentrate on the brakes not the electrical until u rule out the rest, a lot more than just pads to a brake system. Could cause a check brake light to come on, or if Abs fails a Abs light to announce it. Have someone check your brakes you will be more assured after that is addressed .
 

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Not sure but possibly your request to a search engine, has never happend? MAYBE ? Ask about specifics to your vehicle, search is dumb until you enlighten it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Not sure but possibly your request to a search engine, has never happend? MAYBE ? Ask about specifics to your vehicle, search is dumb until you enlighten it.
No I have enlightened google plenty. I only come here as a last resort. I know how people respond when you ask certain things. If I am concerned about the electrical affecting my breaks somehow, since they went right when i had electrical issues, how would you suggest I write it into a search?, cause I tried multiple searches, including the enlightening search of "can breaks be affected by electrical in 99 sonoma" , and other combinations of the facts. I did write this in my initial post. Sorry, its the last thing I mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Start with the obvious first, brake booster/master cyl, wheel cyl.
I wasnt asking reasons breaks could go, thats an easy search, my question was, "can electrical affect breaks" and "can electrical affect master cylinder". If its a "no" then My next natural question would be "how to determine definetely that master cylinder is bad"..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Robert , Brakes concentrate on the brakes not the electrical until u rule out the rest, a lot more than just pads to a brake system. Could cause a check brake light to come on, or if Abs fails a Abs light to announce it. Have someone check your brakes you will be more assured after that is addressed .
I dont think taking 5 minutes to determine if electrical can affect the breaks is concentrating in the wrong spot. I wanted to make sure that it wasnt the case, my breaks went the same time electrical issues started. I am aware that there are more than brake pads to brakes. lol. But if I didnt, I appreciate the input. I suppose I appreciate it either way. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The power booster is that big thing behind the master cylinder...It runs off of vacuum from the engine and is not electric at all....The master cylinder is hydraulically operated and the only electrical connection would be to the brake light, which would trip if there is not enough pressure.
This is the answer I was looking for. Electrical can not affect brakes, including the parts that control braks. So now I know I can move on. Thanks.
 

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Here's the bottom line. With the engine off, the brake pedal should move a small amount and then stop and be firm.

With the engine on, you will have either vacuum, or hydraulic assistance for applying the brakes.

The pedal should not go to the floor unless there is a break in the braking system's hydraulic plumbing.

You probably have a hole in a brake line, a wheel cylinder that lost a seal, or a master cylinder that lost a seal. You also have an ABS pump that could have lost seals.

My advice, this is the most important part of the truck, if you know nothing about the system, it should be repaired by someone who does. Assist and learn, do not attempt this by yourself.
 

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I agree with Ray. If you know there is no fluid leaking. (Pump the pedal about 10 times and see if the level drops) then I would think you have an internal leak inside the master cylinder or the abs system. Usually when a master goes bad there is some sort of leak. Usually out of the back where it mounts to the booster. I have only seen a few go bad and not have some type external leak. I also agree with Ray about you getting someone that knows what they are doing to assist you. If you replace the master and don't bench bleed it properly first or don't have a way to activate the abs valves for bleeding, then you will most likely never get all of the air out of the system. You have no idea how many vehicles I get in where someone attempted to repair their own brake system and either could not do it correctly or could not bleed it properly. Most guys can change pads out easily enough. But many just don't have the experience to work on the hydro system.
 

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Be cool dude, now if you had brakes before you started doodling with the wires I think there is a possibility that an electrical issue that involves the anti-lock brake system might cause overall brake problems. First if you don't have a manual with "all" wiring diagrams, my Haynes manual doesn't, and tackle your electrical problems. Start with the last thing you did and work your back to where you first started. Once you've got them fixed, if the brakes come back, boffo, if not then jump on the brake system and get it ship shape.

P.S. Make sure that any power that you need for an accessory you are installing comes from a main bus, don't just tap into the hot line for another accessory.
 
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