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Discussion Starter #21
I'm sorry to hear that. Is anything damaged in the MAF? How did you remove the baffle, and what does it look like now? If your engine has a distributor, then you might want to check timing. But don't mess with it unless it's off. Typically the computer is usually good at adjusting these little mods to an extent. I think your situation is the first I've heard of. It seems very strange that your truck is even having these problems, unless there's an underlying issue with the vehicle. If need be, I would shop around online first for the OE parts you need before wasting fuel and money looking for them. Try craigslist, ebay, syty.com, search far and wide till you get what you want for cheap. Once again I'm sorry this didn't work out for you.
 

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2004 Chevy silverado

I have a 2004 silverado after i bought the truck the first thing I was going to do is remove the maf screen. Pulled it off and to my surprise the newer trucks don't have a screen in them. I worked for a Chevy dealer here and they must have just started that around the new body style 2002+.
 

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Hey Mike - in an earlier post you said you had problems with iridium plugs. Is this based on your own experience with them? What type and brand of platinum plugs are you running now?
 

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I understand that taking the MAF screen/honeycomb out, increases air flow, but why does GM put it in there? To straighten out the air flow? To diffuse the airflow?
 

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Does anyone have a picture of the TB plate mod. I'm ready to start this on my 98
 

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I have a 2000 blazer and a 1999 jimmy...
my blazer has over 200k km on it and has a K&N cold air intake, a Hypertech programmer... tried a throttlebody spacer, but with the CAI it doesnt fit under the hood. lol
my jimmy i bought for a steal of a deal to replace the blazer, since someone stole and crashed it. but before i transfer all the mods i need to fix it up

on to the power stuff tho, the CAI was the most noticeable modification to me, the TBS did nothing noticeable, for mileage or power. then came the programmer, i had it tuned for premium fuel, to shift harder (can change shift points) and took off the speed limiter... well set it to 300kmh, good luck blazer :) i did notice a gain in fuel econmy but i dont know the numbers. it gave me about 20-50 km extra per tank. the CAI added a bit to that too, but both mods were put on in the same tank. the mileage is only better when you dont lean on the gas though but with all the extra stuff it sounds so much cooler when you do, you can guess how i was driving it tho.
 

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Just so everyone knows, if you remove the baffle from the butterfly valve in your throttle body ( depending on your method of removal ). You will have holes left in your butterfly valve. If you don't fill these holes, you WILL have runability issues... the center most hole is designed to be for idle air. But I filled all holes with small nut and bolts with threadlocker so as not to come loose and fall into the manifold. I am interested in any comments about adding a programmer and what the gains are in real life (not dyno) I already know what the dyno says.
 

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Okay my question is I put true duels on my 08 Silverado from the cats back they used 2 1/2 pipes and nothing happened except it got louder no more power or fuel mileage. Should I have had them run a H pipe?
 

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Hey guys I have an 08 4.3 and have duels just got the jet programer part number 15008 and it has helped a lot. Worth the $350 it is on summit. On high fuel grade grtting about 22mpg on highway with a 3.5in lift and 33's. so it help alot with MPG gave me about 12 more MPG. No low end power but adds a lot of high end HP. Speeds up like a v8 from 55 and above. Getting a CAI and TBS on Monday or Tuesday ill let you know how those work.
 

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hey thanks for ur input, unfortunately my technical jargon dosent compute when u talk about MAF s what r these please. U too be a mechanic years ago and i live in London so names may be different, cheers, John.
 

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hey thanks for ur input, unfortunately my technical jargon dosent compute when u talk about MAF s what r these please. U too be a mechanic years ago and i live in London so names may be different, cheers, John.

Your MAF is your Mass Airflow Sensor I believe. Essentially you find your airbox, and follow the tubing, on my 04' Silverado 4.3 it's right after the box, so it connects to a box then has piping going to the throttle body.

I've been looking up some stuff tonight on 4.3L Vortec's and I've seen some things I can discredit off the bat:

Tornado junk in your airflow don't make it spin and get better fuel economy.
TB Spacers don't help, the intake manifolds built today are spaced pretty accurately for max efficiency.
Most of those "chips" on eBay don't work for gas mileage. HP yes but mpg no. Although his idea about placing a resistor is pretty intriguing. I may try this soon.

I have heard cutting the baffle off the TB is a good thing, but I've also heard it causes engine rumble or something-look into this deeply before trying it. Have someone who is skilled with a dremel do it for you... while your at it polish your Throttle Body, get a real high grit sand paper and polish the holy hell out of it! If you can't shave with your throttle body then you sir are a dumbass for messing with the baffle and not looking at polishing your TB.

Ease your foot off the gas... start focusing on doing 55mpg as much as possible, easy breaking and easy acceleration is the best. My 04 Silverado 4.3L gets it's best MPG at roughly 40mph. I notice my RPMs drop to 1000.


Don't waste money on fuel injection cleanings at a dealership, get some sea foam and pour it into the gas tank. they also make a aerosol kind that is sprayed into the intake system-works wonders.

Check your vacuum lines! Make sure there are NO LEAKS!!!!!!!!! on these new motors vacuum lines are the most important thing. Between Columbus, OH and Ft. Knox KY I was averaging 21-22mpg with no mods, all about how I drove and some up keep.
 

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Howzit,

For those of you who have a 4.3 Vortec and are looking for some cheap or free power, I'll share what I've trialed with. I have a 4.3 in my sierra and it was pretty sluggish when I got her, especially going form a V8. So here's where I started:

- First was exhaust. Now you can go on craigslist or to your local junk yard and see if anyone is selling any after market dual systems and muffler. I decided to go cat back with a custom system that cost me 400 big ones. Ouch. If you shop around on a budget, you can find pretty much everything you need for a cat-back system for pretty cheap. It will add some power and make your ride sound a bit better. It still will sound like a V6 when you mash it, but it's better than stock.
If you got the money, you can go with a full exhaust system with JBA headers, high flow cat, and your choice of after market mufflers and pipping.

- Next I descreened the MAF sensor. Just remove the intake plumbing from both sides of the MAF carefully, remove the 4 outer torx head screws from the MAF assembly, pull off the side that has the honey comb, set the rest of the assembly carefully to the side. Now take the honey comb piece and firmly press around the edges of it. It will make a crackling sound as it separates from the rest of the housing. Toss that honey comb piece in the trash, reassemble the MAF, and put back into place. You will notice a slight difference in acceleration with all the extra air flow and best of all, Better MPG. Just with a tune up, dual exhaust and descreening the MAF, I noticed a huge improvement in my MPG. So don't waste money on those expensive ones when you can do it for free.

- There is a baffle on the throttle blade inside the throttle body. Remove the air intake off the top of the throttle body. You will be able to see the throttle blade inside. If you open it, you can see the baffle on the bottom front of the blade. Take a torx bit screw driver and remove the 2 screws that hold the blade in place and remove the blade carefully. Take a dremel tool and cut that sucker off so that the blade looks like a normal blade, or a coin. Be sure not to mar any edges of the blade, or it will mess it up. Reinstall the blade and intake. Now you should notice even more difference in some throttle response.

- Install some iridium spark plugs. These actually do have more efficient sparks which provides some power, better emissions, and better MPG.
UPDATE: Just replaced the iridiums with regular ACDelco Platinums. The iridium were causing to harsh of a detonation therefore in cold weather and start up, they were making the engine hesitate. When I pulled them, they were also coated with charred soot. To powerful of a plug. The platinums work more efficiently with a smoother mild ride. The truck is a lot quieter as well and not as jarring on throttle response.

These 4 things above that I described actually work with boosting your MPG. I tried it and it helped a lot. Throttle response was much better as well. Throttle response should be the first thing to improve before trying to improve horse power on these engines as well as any. The next things below I will mention gave me more power and quicker acceleration but totally bombed my MPG.

- Cold air intakes can be expensive as hell. You can actually go to home depot and get all the pieces for really cheap, except for the cone filter. So if you can, do that. Or you can do what I did which is find insys-usa on ebay, and they sell the cold air intake for the 4.3 for only $65. It's well worth it. especially after all the other ones are like a couple hundred. You will notice an increase in response, BUT, your MPG will go down, depending what element you live in. If you live in cold climate, your MPG is even at greater risk since even more mass of cold air is moving through the intake. The reason being is because there is a intake air temperature sensor (IAT) before the MAF. The IAT gathers info of the air temp and sends it to the ECU. The ECU then figures out how much fuel to deliver and spark timing so it can efficiently run in any temperature. So when cold air hits the IAT, that's alot of dense air going into the intake. A huge mass of dense air mixed with a lean mixture of fuel = bad detonation in the cylinder. So the computer sends more fuel to each cylinder when the air is super cold. Thus dropping your fuel gauge. So I would wait to put on a cold air intake until the warmer days of the year. But if you live in hot climates, feel free to put it on and leave it on all year round. It does help pretty significant with power.

- Power adders and stupid resistors on ebay. Ok, stay away from those scams. Those guys sell people a 20 cent resistor, tape it to a piece of paper, or put it in a pretty box, and charge you like $15-even $89 I've seen. Don't fall for it. If you want to give it a shot and know what it's all about, I'll explain how to do it and what it does. As I explained in the last paragraph, the IAT reads the air temp and sends that info to the ECU which in turn adjust fuel and timing accordingly. So, these "magical" resistors are actually an 4.7k ohm, 1/2 watt resistors that you can get at Radio Shack. They come in a pack a 5 for just a buck. Take one, some electrical tape, unplug the IAT cable from the sensor that's located on the intake tube before the MAF, bend the 2 ends, 2 times so the ends are a little thicker, then bend them so they can fit into the 2 holes in the plug. Tape it together so it doesn't fall out and tape it to something secure. Ok, what that does is in a nut shell, it makes the ECU read that the air coming in is 52*. As explained before, cold air means more fuel in the cylinder. If you just unplug the IAT, your CEL comes on and that's never cool. The resistor MAY add maybe just a little power, but I highly doubt it. I suggest don't try it with a cold air intake. Try it with the stock induction only. But please don't waste your money and fall for those clowns on ebay.

- Power tuned ECU. I have heard mixed comments about the hand held programmers and such. It sounds pretty good with certain ones. If anyone has tried any with a 4.3 vortec and Actually had some good results, let us know. There are other options as well which could be cheaper and more beneficial in the long run. Take your vehicle to a shop that actually does tuning in house with tuning software. Or there are the three companies who most of us come to love such as, Wheatley, Blackbear, and Wait4me. Those guys will bring out the very best in your vehicle, 4.3 or not. The price is a hell of a lot cheaper as well, going dollar for horsepower.

- Throttle body spacers seemed to be all the rage for awhile, then nothing. I purchased one, but have yet to put it on. I have been hearing mixed reviews about them. I was told that if you have a carb or TBI, that a spacer is more beneficial because the fuel follows the air into the intake therefore creating a bigger combustion. Has anyone actually tried a spacer on a newer vortec? If so please let us know the consensus.

I hope this stuff has helped you guys a bit with your 4.3 vortec. These tips you can also use on pretty much any other engine, but I know how much the 4.3 guy's want just a little more kick out of their machines. If anyone had anything to add as well that will help us all out, please feel free. I hope this works out for you and if you guy's have a questions, just ask.

Mahalo.
on the throttle body spacers the let each cylinder take roughly 2 to 10 or more cubic inches of extra air in at the intakee of each piston stroke... just like a wiend tunnel ram intake does on a drag car so to say.it enlarges the overall space theCFM. i would geuss it increases as the flap or buttlerfly rises or moves away from the upper intake plemium
 

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on the throttle body spacers the let each cylinder take roughly 2 to 10 or more cubic inches of extra air in at the intakee of each piston stroke... just like a wiend tunnel ram intake does on a drag car so to say.it enlarges the overall space theCFM. i would geuss it increases as the flap or buttlerfly rises or moves away from the upper intake plemium
No. Throttle body spacers increase the volume of the plenum (the space between the throttle blade and the intake valves). What this does is allow a greater volume of air to be stored behind the blade, which can slightly improve throttle response. It does not result in more air going into the cylinder, nor does it result in an increase of flow CFM through the intake.

A tunnel ram intake on a drag car serves a completely different purpose. Tunnel ram intakes are to have a tall intake runner which is essentially a straight shot from the throttle plate to the cylinder. This improves flow in the higher RPM range that drag cars are built to run in, and reduces potential low-end output of the engine.
 

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Ok I need help iv done plenty of mods and even tour the motor apart and rebuild it with performance parts it goes from 0 to 100 in under 8 secs but still it hits 100 and cuts back I lose power and regain power at 90 does anyone know what I can do to fix that.
 

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There is a REV limiter built in to the computer. It has to be changed to a higher speed or disabled.

On the other "mods" done on the post '96 4.3s.

Both of my S-10's (95 Jimmy and 02 ZR5 quad cab) have 3.42 rears. I've had the ZR5 for 12 years now and Dad gave me the Jimmy 10 years ago. I run AC DELCO Platinums in the 95 Jimmy (with the central tuned port with the splitter valve in the back of the manifold) and AUTOLITE 609's in the 02. Both have the METAL BODY UNITED MOTOR PRODUCTS 9363 Distributor. NO MORE PROBLEMS with breaking off the tabs on the side when tightening the cap. AND the vents are redesigned so they actually WORK!!! Brass pins in the distributor and rotor. Have 70K plus on both distributors and still have the original cap and rotor. Taylor 9mm plug wires on both. Plus the United distributor costs about $99 or so NEW @ Rock Auto, while a Cardone rebuilt with Epoxy holding the ears on is twice that much.
The 95 is stock other than the distributor.

The throttle blade has been trimmed on the 02. Can't do this on the 95 as the TB is out front, and it doesn't have the restrictor baffle.
On the Filter box, open up the front panel and get rid of the restrictive snorkel on the 97 Vortecs and up with the big filter box in the Drivers front corner.

Twin 11" Fan's on the 02. 180* thermostat.
Wait4me computer on the 02. I had W4Me adjust the 02's Torque converter hold to 90% and it holds all the way to just short of WOT. Maxed out for 87 pump gas and upped the shift points for trailer towing. I still have the original computer so when I'm not towing it goes back in. I tow a 1994 Gulfstream Innsbruck 18' TT that weighs 3800# dry and about 4200 wet and loaded for me and the dog for a week.
The biggest thing that gets me decent mileage on both is an "A" pillar mounted VACUUM GAUGE. I run the Jimmy at 62mph 1900rpm and 15" vacuum (average) and tweaked the cruise so it's not hunting up and down hills at WOT @ 2" Hg. It will go down to 10" on a hill and keep pulling. On a trip to Branson Mo from Baltimore in 2012 the Jimmy got a staggering 27mpg average out and back. And this with a rear end that howled like a whore in church. A year later the pinion bearing gave it up (at 122000 miles) on the wife. Dropped a rear from a 97 Sonoma in it, and performance hasn't changed. It does 0-60 in a little under 10 seconds and is quicker off the line than the 02 ZR5 for some reason. Other than the injection systems the Driveline is indentical. 4.3L, 4l60E, 3.42rear.

The 02 ZR5 now has 92000 (I bought it with 32000). It's had the top end off and the complete injection system replaced (go to rock auto for the spider. DELPHI spider is cheaper by 1/2 than anywhere else!) It runs a corvette radiator (the standard S-10 Radiator is JUNK and too small for normal use.) Twin 11" Electric fan's and the other stuff I mentioned above. The ZR5 will get 24mpg avg on the highway but I tend to get into it more than the Jimmy. Leather buckets, center console, Floor Shifter, Trip computer and Electrochromatic mirror Courtesy of a 2000 Olds Bravada. Back seat is also leather courtesy of a 94 Bravada. in 95 The blazer, Jimmy, and Bravada went to a 60-40 split back seat.

Run a can of Seafoam in the tank every year and fill the tank at that point. 1st time doing it drop in 2 cans. Keeps the injection system clean and also cleans the chambers. I run full synthetic in the 02 ZR-5and Semi Synthetic in the 95 Jimmy. AC Delco PF-52 Filters.

GET RID OF THE DEXCOOL . This is the worst stuff that GM ever put in the 4.3L. Put FLUSH the DEXCOOL OUT, and put in 2 cans of prestone Cooling system cleaner. Run it for a week this way (preferably in the spring or Fall before 1st freeze). Flush out the crap using a Prestone Flush and fill kit. Fill with 50/50 Green stuff and add a can of Water Wetter for stock 4.3L systems. Change the Thermostat to a 180* unit. I'm not totally sure now but the radiator I got for a Gen 4 Vette (87 or thereabouts). Then add ground straps to the Radiator and the core support to ground the radiator. Because the Radiator is not grounded electrolysis occurs with the Dexcool and literally eats your radiator from the inside out. Electrolysis on the nature of 2 to 4 volts DC. Get your Volt meter out and stick the + probe in the antifreeze and the - probe on a good ground. Flush, fill with 50/50 and check again without ground straps and with ground strap. The readings will be in mv range with ground straps.

?With the Corvette Radiator, The oil cooler and Transcooler lines will need to go direct to aftermarket units unless you adapter them to death. 25000 GVW works fine in the S-10. Keeps the tran temps in the 160's or so with them climbing to about 180 when towing. In addition to the Vacuum gauge installed a Trans Temp gauge to the pan.

The throttle plate will get rid of the turbulence at the front of the throttle body and attendant throttle lag. Leave the IAT PLUGGED IN, but move it to the front of the filter box. I'd recommend leaving the Honeycomb in the MAF, and just clean it once a year. If any debris hits those two resistive elements, you'll get a Check engine light and the engine will go into limp home mode or die completely.

I get consistently 18-19 on short trip driving with the 02, and a high of 24 running empty. Towing I leave it in 4th and get 10-11mpg towing the trailer. I'll down shift on my own when I come to a hill and run up the hill in 3rd or 2nd gear. The trans also has the larger 1-2 and 2-3 servo's. Shifts like a THM400 not a C-6 ford slushbox. CHIRP's the tires on 1-2 upshift if I hit it hard.

I left the Jimmy stock except for the distributor and the 180 thermostat, as the wife drove it. She couldn't see out of the ZR-5 (funny as the ZR5 has 4 square windows and a "C" pillar that is smaller than the "C" pillar on the Jimmy. Go Figure.

The biggest thing with the 4.3L and fuel economy is keeping an eye on the engine vacuum. Run it between 14" and 16", and you'll maximize Fuel Economy. Both run very nicely @ 70mph and 15". With a good tune, and with it cooled right, it'll do at least 20 on the highway all the time as long as your right foot isn't made of lead.
 

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Howzit,

For those of you who have a 4.3 Vortec and are looking for some cheap or free power, I'll share what I've trialed with. I have a 4.3 in my sierra and it was pretty sluggish when I got her, especially going form a V8. So here's where I started:

- First was exhaust. Now you can go on craigslist or to your local junk yard and see if anyone is selling any after market dual systems and muffler. I decided to go cat back with a custom system that cost me 400 big ones. Ouch. If you shop around on a budget, you can find pretty much everything you need for a cat-back system for pretty cheap. It will add some power and make your ride sound a bit better. It still will sound like a V6 when you mash it, but it's better than stock.
If you got the money, you can go with a full exhaust system with JBA headers, high flow cat, and your choice of after market mufflers and pipping.

- Next I descreened the MAF sensor. Just remove the intake plumbing from both sides of the MAF carefully, remove the 4 outer torx head screws from the MAF assembly, pull off the side that has the honey comb, set the rest of the assembly carefully to the side. Now take the honey comb piece and firmly press around the edges of it. It will make a crackling sound as it separates from the rest of the housing. Toss that honey comb piece in the trash, reassemble the MAF, and put back into place. You will notice a slight difference in acceleration with all the extra air flow and best of all, Better MPG. Just with a tune up, dual exhaust and descreening the MAF, I noticed a huge improvement in my MPG. So don't waste money on those expensive ones when you can do it for free.

- There is a baffle on the throttle blade inside the throttle body. Remove the air intake off the top of the throttle body. You will be able to see the throttle blade inside. If you open it, you can see the baffle on the bottom front of the blade. Take a torx bit screw driver and remove the 2 screws that hold the blade in place and remove the blade carefully. Take a dremel tool and cut that sucker off so that the blade looks like a normal blade, or a coin. Be sure not to mar any edges of the blade, or it will mess it up. Reinstall the blade and intake. Now you should notice even more difference in some throttle response.

- Install some iridium spark plugs. These actually do have more efficient sparks which provides some power, better emissions, and better MPG.
UPDATE: Just replaced the iridiums with regular ACDelco Platinums. The iridium were causing to harsh of a detonation therefore in cold weather and start up, they were making the engine hesitate. When I pulled them, they were also coated with charred soot. To powerful of a plug. The platinums work more efficiently with a smoother mild ride. The truck is a lot quieter as well and not as jarring on throttle response.

These 4 things above that I described actually work with boosting your MPG. I tried it and it helped a lot. Throttle response was much better as well. Throttle response should be the first thing to improve before trying to improve horse power on these engines as well as any. The next things below I will mention gave me more power and quicker acceleration but totally bombed my MPG.

- Cold air intakes can be expensive as hell. You can actually go to home depot and get all the pieces for really cheap, except for the cone filter. So if you can, do that. Or you can do what I did which is find insys-usa on ebay, and they sell the cold air intake for the 4.3 for only $65. It's well worth it. especially after all the other ones are like a couple hundred. You will notice an increase in response, BUT, your MPG will go down, depending what element you live in. If you live in cold climate, your MPG is even at greater risk since even more mass of cold air is moving through the intake. The reason being is because there is a intake air temperature sensor (IAT) before the MAF. The IAT gathers info of the air temp and sends it to the ECU. The ECU then figures out how much fuel to deliver and spark timing so it can efficiently run in any temperature. So when cold air hits the IAT, that's alot of dense air going into the intake. A huge mass of dense air mixed with a lean mixture of fuel = bad detonation in the cylinder. So the computer sends more fuel to each cylinder when the air is super cold. Thus dropping your fuel gauge. So I would wait to put on a cold air intake until the warmer days of the year. But if you live in hot climates, feel free to put it on and leave it on all year round. It does help pretty significant with power.

- Power adders and stupid resistors on ebay. Ok, stay away from those scams. Those guys sell people a 20 cent resistor, tape it to a piece of paper, or put it in a pretty box, and charge you like $15-even $89 I've seen. Don't fall for it. If you want to give it a shot and know what it's all about, I'll explain how to do it and what it does. As I explained in the last paragraph, the IAT reads the air temp and sends that info to the ECU which in turn adjust fuel and timing accordingly. So, these "magical" resistors are actually an 4.7k ohm, 1/2 watt resistors that you can get at Radio Shack. They come in a pack a 5 for just a buck. Take one, some electrical tape, unplug the IAT cable from the sensor that's located on the intake tube before the MAF, bend the 2 ends, 2 times so the ends are a little thicker, then bend them so they can fit into the 2 holes in the plug. Tape it together so it doesn't fall out and tape it to something secure. Ok, what that does is in a nut shell, it makes the ECU read that the air coming in is 52*. As explained before, cold air means more fuel in the cylinder. If you just unplug the IAT, your CEL comes on and that's never cool. The resistor MAY add maybe just a little power, but I highly doubt it. I suggest don't try it with a cold air intake. Try it with the stock induction only. But please don't waste your money and fall for those clowns on ebay.

- Power tuned ECU. I have heard mixed comments about the hand held programmers and such. It sounds pretty good with certain ones. If anyone has tried any with a 4.3 vortec and Actually had some good results, let us know. There are other options as well which could be cheaper and more beneficial in the long run. Take your vehicle to a shop that actually does tuning in house with tuning software. Or there are the three companies who most of us come to love such as, Wheatley, Blackbear, and Wait4me. Those guys will bring out the very best in your vehicle, 4.3 or not. The price is a hell of a lot cheaper as well, going dollar for horsepower.

- Throttle body spacers seemed to be all the rage for awhile, then nothing. I purchased one, but have yet to put it on. I have been hearing mixed reviews about them. I was told that if you have a carb or TBI, that a spacer is more beneficial because the fuel follows the air into the intake therefore creating a bigger combustion. Has anyone actually tried a spacer on a newer vortec? If so please let us know the consensus.

I hope this stuff has helped you guys a bit with your 4.3 vortec. These tips you can also use on pretty much any other engine, but I know how much the 4.3 guy's want just a little more kick out of their machines. If anyone had anything to add as well that will help us all out, please feel free. I hope this works out for you and if you guy's have a questions, just ask.

Mahalo.
When it comes to the “plug and play” tuners they’re really not a good investment, I bought one for my 4.3 in a 1999 s10 and it blew the fifth cylinder to pieces because it tried to force way to much fuel in the cylinder
 
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