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Check gauges light on, tranny not shifting properly [Expired Topic]

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My check gauges light has come on and the gear selector lights went out on my 95 GMC. When in Drive it feels like the tranny is trying to start out in OD instead of starting in 1st like it should. If I manually shift it, it will start out in first but doesn't seem to change when in 2nd , goes okay in 3rd. and so on.
I believe it is an electronic problem as it seemed to have been an intermittent problem a couple of times when you switched off the ignition and restarted. Now does it all the time.
Don't know the history on the suburban, just that it was taken care of by an older couple - regular maintenence was said to have been done. Almost 200k miles and strong as an ox !
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Try to disconnect your battery for about 10 minutes this will reset your ECM. :arrow:

Maybe this will solve the problem :roll:
The newer tranys are electric inside, they have all sorts of selonoids in them. Try what daveandy said it may work, if not I'm afraid it may be one of the selenoids is malfunctioning.
Took it to a mechanic, he checked trouble codes and showed about five failures, but says it seems like a loose ground or hot wire causing the problem since it works fine one day then not the rest of the week. He checked fuses, and all visible connections and it didn't help.

Guess I'll start from inside the dash and work my way to the tranny checking for shorts or lose connections, can't afford to pay someone 65.00 an hour to do that.

When it's not working right, I have 2nd, 3rd and Reverse gears, no Tachometer, speedometer, Odometer, trip meter shift indicator or fuel gauge :!:

Otherwise runs like a top.
Sorry to hear about your electrical problems. I've had bad electrical problems before, it's a serious pain to try to run down a loose wire.
Just wanted to fill you all in on what the problem was in case anyone hears of it in the future.
I took it to the dealer for a diagnostic test. They said there was a short in the wiring harness that connects to the key switch. It would be $250. for the parts and another $300. for the labor. <--Typical dealer.
I paid them $80. and took it to a local mechanic, he took it apart, cleaned the contacts, added some new grease and charged me $130.
Works just fine now.
-M
Hey, glad to hear that it didn't cost all that much to get diagnoised and fixed. Electrical is one of those things that it's best to leave to a pro ... my opinion.
I hate electrical problems.

I would rather pound my balls flat with a 4 lb. hand sledge than try to find an electrical problem.

Sorry for being so grafic but I would.
G
Let's hope you don't need to fix any electrical problems in your near future....
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