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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I'm changing the filter and fluid on my transmission yesterday, and after bolting the pan and refilling ATF I get a strange clunk noise after I select my gear. P to R (regular shift noise, then clunk noise right after). It doesnt clunk as loud going into D.

Also I couldn't get the pan off initially so I bent the bracket slightly but made sure everything including the retainer pin was back in place. Only thing I noticed was the dipstick read 1/4" over full when warm and 1/2" over full hot (idling right after 20minute drive). But I'm going to stick a plastic tube in there tomorrow and grab out a couple ounces which will bring it right on the full line.

If the video isnt showing up just imagine a noise twice as loud as the normal gear selector noise. Just a clunk, no grinding or anything.


UPDATE
After extracting overfilled fluid (I took out 600ml or 22oz) it looks as if I lost a little over 2 entire full-mark sections. Which means the entire full mark on the dipstick measures 1/4 quart of fluid
 

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I'm no expert and I've not seen the video, and except for any tranny fluid issue...I've had something similar happen before and it was ball joints. The truck naturally wants to move, as it's being placed in gear, but your foot is on the brake holding it in place.

Worn ball joints would be the next closest point of give, so they do, slightly. Worth a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm no expert and I've not seen the video, and except for any tranny fluid issue...I've had something similar happen before and it was ball joints. The truck naturally wants to move, as it's being placed in gear, but your foot is on the brake holding it in place.

Worn ball joints would be the next closest point of give, so they do, slightly. Worth a look.
I also researched and found that the u-joints would cause this noise too. My u-joints are squeaking so that might be it. Seems like it has nothing to do with the transmission which is a huge relief lol.
 

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well many DIY and monkey wrenchers do bend the shift bracket on the transmission..then the shifting could be a problem. need to use the bits that fit into those small bolts.I never bent that bracket .......
you stated the drive shaft tweets so you have to buy the correct U joint for your truck ... the one at the rear diff.. that is the one that most all the time fails due to corrosion.. if you have the aluminum drive shaft be very very careful on your work .. do not whack the drive shaft be careful on the removal of the U joint ..
the new joint requires a EP2 rated grease.. then put the lithium based grease on the yoke of the drive shaft.
you over loaded the tranny fluid that is a killer.. you fill it to the add mark.. then drive it several miles and go to a gas station that has level ground.. when the fluid is at the bottom of the full mark [not the top ] then that is the correct level....when the hot air temps or your towing hauling the transmission fluid gets hot and do no want the fluid to go over the full max mark.. then the fluid will bubble up and cause slippages and it will kill it..
use only DEXRON VI .. GM BANNED THE DEXRON III IN 2006.. THAT FLUID CREATED ACID !
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well many DIY and monkey wrenchers do bend the shift bracket on the transmission..then the shifting could be a problem. need to use the bits that fit into those small bolts.I never bent that bracket .......
you stated the drive shaft tweets so you have to buy the correct U joint for your truck ... the one at the rear diff.. that is the one that most all the time fails due to corrosion.. if you have the aluminum drive shaft be very very careful on your work .. do not whack the drive shaft be careful on the removal of the U joint ..
the new joint requires a EP2 rated grease.. then put the lithium based grease on the yoke of the drive shaft.
you over loaded the tranny fluid that is a killer.. you fill it to the add mark.. then drive it several miles and go to a gas station that has level ground.. when the fluid is at the bottom of the full mark [not the top ] then that is the correct level....when the hot air temps or your towing hauling the transmission fluid gets hot and do no want the fluid to go over the full max mark.. then the fluid will bubble up and cause slippages and it will kill it..
use only DEXRON VI .. GM BANNED THE DEXRON III IN 2006.. THAT FLUID CREATED ACID !
Great tips, I hear the drive shaft can get easily damaged during removal. I'll have to place some jack stands an inch below so I can cradle it down.

I'm planning to buy a plastic tube, tape it to a nozzle and extract the extra 3-400ml outta the tranny. I'll make sure to get to the lower full mark, seems much safer that way. I'd hate for a minor thing like this to slowly end up becoming a real situation ?
 

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drive shaft not too heavy ,, have the wheels in the front blocked up .. then put it in neutral then remove the drive shaft,, the shaft not locked in a load condition so have it rotate ..Lift one rear wheel off the ground so it will rotate, then unbolt it and have a couple of card board boxes so it will set down on those soft boxes...when you slowly slide it out ...
 
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