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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

My truck seems to be leaking a lot of water or coolant after I drive the truck. Dash says my coolant level is now low. There is a lot of liquid being dispelled from the hose underneath the AC condensor by the firewall.

I rarely run my AC. And I've had on going issues with my climate controls since for the past year. AC sometimes works when it wants to. Normally, the AC is fine on the hwy and crappy on the streets. Heater sometimes kicks in and somethings won't.

Can anyone give me some pointers here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Yep, looks like my heatercore is leaking. I was driving today and my vents were smoking. I'll try to hit it with some Alume-seal, hopefully that will fix the problem.​
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe I'll just bypass the heater core completely.

Can anyone tell me what size the tubing going in and out of the firewall is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, I just decided to bypass the heatercore and go without heat all together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1 year later, finally attempting to replace me heatercore. Ordered everything I need and starting next weekend.
 

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Get a camera and take LOTS of pictures. You will end up with extra screws but make sure there are no bolts or clamps in there. Take your time and do not force things or those little tabs will all bust off. As for airbag connectors just unplug the battery and give it a good 15-20 mins before disconnecting so the capacitors can discharge. Other than that its a long job so get ready for a weekend full. Also if you havent already replace the blend door actuators while your inthere to save headaches in the future, they might be alittle pricey but I would def do it.
 

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I removed & installed 1 in my 95 Silverado EXT but I didn't have to remove the dash and it was still a royal pain in der arzzzz. Might as well change your Heater Blower Resistor too while you're in there.


Good Luck 2 ya...dude
 

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It depends on what you can afford and what you want to have in the future, when i did them in the shop we always recomended to replace the evap core and any common fail parts for that car while we were in there to save on future labor. Since you have to disconnect the a/c anyways if it still works its a good idea along with the blend door actuator. The resister pack isnt too hard to get to but can be a real pita if you dont have swivel sockets. Its up to you what to replace but i would replace those 3 if it were my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've read up on the project. I've got the whole weekend scheduled for this. Can someone please send me a link to the "blend door actuator, heater blower resistor & evap core"? I'd prefer to buy them off Ebay because it's cheaper.

- - - Updated - - -

Looked it up. I don't think I need to replace the heater blower resistor. I'm definitely swapping the evap core.
 

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Just remember the cheap crap on ebay you may get what you pay for and have to do this again next winter. The cores are just little radiators but the actuator you may want to get a name brand on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got my heatercore from the parts store today. Also ordered a evap core, should be in in 2 days. As for the door blend acutator; there seems to be 2-3 of them. Can anyone confirm? I really don't want to drop $200 for them if the one's on there still work.

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AC purged. Can someone tell me who to swap my evap core? Co-worker says it's in front of my radiator. I thought it was next to my heatercore behind dash.
 

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I would not replace the ac evap. this is seldom a problem in most all vehicles. this is in the air box near the heater core. the ac condenser is in front of the radiator. the evap coils absorb heat from the interior. the condenser releases the heat absorbed by the evap coils.

just replace the heatercore and the temp door actuators/stepper motors. clean the box up of any dirt wash the coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Can you shed some light on how many door actuators I got? I can visually see the one in the center/bottom dash behind the sound insulation.
 

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I have seen alot of evap cores go but im in the rustbelt so depends on where you are, the number of motors depend on if you have 1or 2 zones (pass independant temp controls, so 2 temp knobs). I pretty sure you only have one and it should be on the seat side of the heater box towards the center of the dash. These are common fail for our trucks and mine is bad aswell but still mostly wirks so i havent bothered with it.

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Just noticed your in southern ca, i would def replace the evap with the use it gets out there. Also is everybody really complaining about the 60 degree wheather out there? Its 10 here, if it was 60 id go swimming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Watched a bunch of youtube vidz. I'm probably going to take apart the acutator and clean it out. I'm pretty excited about the project. I've got everything I need to get the job done.

I think cleaning off all my vents and tubing will consume most of my time. Everything is super dusty and I want to wipe everything down.

I wonder what my cabin air filter looks like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Half way thru this project. Wife went all crazy when she saw the truck. It was hilarious!!!

There is dirt or sand everywhere behind the dash. I'm taking my sweet ass time and wiping down everything with antibacterial wipes. OCD? Possibly.

Broke 1 vent tab. Stripped the bolt for the AC evap core. Might run down to dealer for it.
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+1 on leak testing, looks good so far.
 
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