[Falcone]

Hey all, I'm just wondering if I have to get a new HU to add a jl w3v3 8" and a crap amp into my truck? I have a decent HU already out of my old sonoma but I actually like the stock dash/HU and wouldn't mind keeping it if It can simply be add'd on?

Its a 2010 Sierra EXT Cab, Nevada Edition.

 

[98Hotrod98]

You do not need a new HU for subs. Alot of amps have line input converters built in so you can just tap into your rear speaker wires to get your audio. Or you could go with a Line output converter http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?tp=2001 if your amp doesnt have one built in.

 

[ntbush83]

What he ^^^ said!

 

[Enkeiavalanche]

Ditto above.... With just a sub added to the factory radio you should be fine..

 

[dobey]

Also, PAC Audio makes some great stuff to connect into OEM systems. For my 04 Z71, I got http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=365&CategoryID=28 to give me RCA outs and a remote wire, without having to cut and splice the factory wiring. Just plug it in and go. They also have several similar things for the newer GM vehicles with CAN bus and GM-LAN. You might want to check them out.

 

[Falcone]

So I would just need to run the power for the amp from the battery then? and splice into my rear speakers to get my audio signal?

 

[Enkeiavalanche]

Or find a Hot lead tats turns on with the truck and don't forget to fuse the wire....

 

[redneck70]

Also, PAC Audio makes some great stuff to connect into OEM systems. For my 04 Z71, I got http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=365&CategoryID=28 to give me RCA outs and a remote wire, without having to cut and splice the factory wiring. Just plug it in and go. They also have several similar things for the newer GM vehicles with CAN bus and GM-LAN. You might want to check them out.

X2...... plus since this is directly out of the back of the deck you'll get a better signal then you would by splicing into the factory speaker wires.

 

[Falcone]

so for that I would just plug that into the harness on the OEM deck, and I would still just need to find a place to send the power from the batt to the amp, and robert's your fathers brother?

 

[dobey]

so for that I would just plug that into the harness on the OEM deck, and I would still just need to find a place to send the power from the batt to the amp, and robert's your fathers brother?

Pretty much, yes. It's a little box that plugs into the back of the radio, and the truck's harness plugs into it. And it gives you a remote and rca connections. On the one I got from PAC, I had to hook up the remote to the right wire in the harness, as it was left disconnected on the stereo side, as it is different on some years. But did not require altering the existing harness at all. Then you just have to run the remote and RCAs back to the amp, and the power and ground for the amp, and you're set, aside from tuning and hooking up the sub.

 

[Falcone]

well hot dang I think you guys have just made my weekend. I'm going to go grab my old low pro box now and see how I can mount it.

I still keep my onstar and and chimes right?


Thanks a ton.

 

[Falcone]

Alright guys.. so I picked this up from bestbuy for $20, the guy said its what they use in all their installs and is super easy to put in.

Now my question is, do I still need a remote wire or is this kind of include the remote wire function? I just want to get this right, these are the things I need to do to add the amp and sub correct?

- run power from my battery to my amp
- splice in the line converter in EITHER one of my rear speakers? ( or where did you guys find a good spot to find the wires?)
- run rca's from the converter to my amp
- run speaker wire from my amp to my sub
- run a ground from my amp to more then likely the back seat mounting bracket?

**- run a remote from the amp to....?**

Thanks for all the help guys I wasn't so cautious with my 92 sonoma and just slapped it in.. but I really don't want to own a wiring nightmare for the next large portion of my life.

 

[dobey]

That thing from BestBuy is a line convertor only. It doesn't seem to have a remote wire in that pic. I presume you would splice into both the right and left (as it apparently has stereo output, and 4 wires coming in). You will have to run a separate remote wire, yes. To install with that, you are going to have to cut wires and splice into the harness.

You can keep the OnStar/Chimes with the unit I have, yes. And you will with that I presume as well. You really should splice into the fronts, instead of the rears though, as you're probably going to have more of the sound being sent to them. Unfortunately, the OnStar/Chime gets sent to the front driver side speaker. But if you're only running subs, hopefully your cut off is set right, and the chime noise won't make it through. However, any bass coming through OnStar will (conversations/directions/etc…).