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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.

I've got a squeeking sound from under nieth my car. It's pulsating with two squeeks per wheel rotation. It can be heard when driving forward, even at idle throttle and I don't know if it disappears at high speeds or is hidden by the wind noice. It's not there when I reverse the car. It's got nothing to do with the wheels, but sounds as it comes from the drive shaft from what I heard when I listened under the car. From what I read on this forum, it sounds like the drive shaft U-joints. I can't say that I can locate the sound to any of the U-joints. It rather sounds like coming from the shaft itself! Guess that could be resonans.

My question to you is the following: when I jerk the U-joint parts or the drive shaft I can't feel any looseness at all. Could it still be the U-joints that need replacement? Or is it rather something else? And what, then?

Car's got 35K on the meeter.

TIA
 

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Hello, It does sound like the U-Joints to me. If you remove the drive shaft and move the joint around do you feel any tics or is it very loose feeling. U-Joints are somewhat stiff when you turn them so if it has a loose feeling I would say replace them. It is an easy fix and it is always better to be safe than sorry. You do not want it coming apart while you are driving.
 

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Whens the last time the U-joints were lubed? The pinion bearings under the U-joint caps could be dry. You may be able to lube them and quiet things down but my guess is if their squeeking they need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Whens the last time the U-joints were lubed? The pinion bearings under the U-joint caps could be dry. You may be able to lube them and quiet things down but my guess is if their squeeking they need replacing.
Probably not lubed since they were installed (='03). As I read in the workshop manual they are life time lubed at delivery. Think I'll ask someone at the dealers shop to listen in on the noise this week and if they say it's the joints, I'll put new ones on. A bit early for this type of rugged car if you ask me.... :grrrrrr:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Changed the rear driveshaft rear joint. The old one was dry as an 99 year old virgin. Now it runs smooth as ever. Thank's for all the tips! :great:


 

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Looks like you caught the problem before it became a show stopper.

Lots of parts are "Lifetime lubed" at the factory, the problem is that statement refers to the life time of the part, not the truck, and no one can tell you the life time of said part. If it's not lubed the life time suddenly got shorter.

I never use U-joints without zerk fittings, I like the ability to lube the u-joints every oil change. I basically dont trust the "Lifetime Lube" statement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like you caught the problem before it became a show stopper.

I never use U-joints without zerk fittings, I like the ability to lube the u-joints every oil change. I basically dont trust the "Lifetime Lube" statement.
Sounds smart. Never saw any of those, though.
 

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If you ever have to replace them again ask for Spicer brand, one of the few U-joint manufacturers that makes them with zerk fittings.
 

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mine are starting to go how hard are they to do yourself(specialized tools?) I have a 99 1/2 ton burban
 

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Good to know AC Delco U-joints have zerk fittings. Most U-joint manufacturers have gone to lifetime lube and sometimes its hard to find Spicers.
 

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mine are starting to go how hard are they to do yourself(specialized tools?) I have a 99 1/2 ton burban
It's a fairly simple process, just follow the procedure as described in your manual. I'd rented a ball joint tool, and was able to easily adapt it to a U-joint press using appropriately sized sockets. You could do the same thing with a bench vice.
Please be advised, ajaxajax2000's pic of his torque tube in vice is contradictory to the warning in Chilton's. Modern large diameter, nonferrous, low mass drive shafts are easily damaged.
 
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