[Tyler Wagner]

Sorry for garbage photo my phones old.

Anyways. I had an issue where my door wont open from the inside and wont lock with the powered locks.
I took the door panel off and noticed the automatic locks rod wasn't connected so I connected it, now the lock tab inside the door moves up and down when using auto locks but doesn't actually lock.

So upon further inspection it looks like the rod coming from the automatic lock and the rod coming from the door handle(inside) are not connected. They have a little "L-Hook" on the end of them that is supposed to latch onto the lock assembly, I try to hook them on but just as quickly as I put them on they pop off. Is there something that's supposed to hold the little L-Hooks in? and Do any of you know the name of these parts if they need replacing?

Thanks in advance

 

[Cowboytrukr]

The door not opening from the inside is likely a broken tab on the back side of the interior lever. Common failure point. Dorman sells a replacement. See the parts store for a replacement or order one from RockAuto.com.

Here's a good breakdown from LMC Truck.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=17

Often caused by sagging door due to hinge pin bushing wear. Check your door fitment. I'm betting it's sagging. The sagging door puts increased pressure on the door latch and the lock won't release due to the housing inside the door frame dragging on the lock pin. Check the latch for excessive wear.

The door lock clip is a metal clip. See item #17.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=15

 

[Tyler Wagner]

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=15

on that page part 14 and 15 wont connect to part 11 (is there some sort of clip to hold it in?)

I'm glad you shared those links I've been looking for this.

 

[Cowboytrukr]

Yes, it can. A sagging door causes item #11 to drag on the latch pin in the door jamb.

First order of business is to get the door open. You may have to get a couple of plastic door shims from Lowe’s or Home Depot to gently wedge under the door to get it level so you can open the door. You may want to enlist a helper to press up on the back of the window opening while you slide the shims in a the bottom.

Once you get it opened, take a close look at the latch pin and the latch(#11). The most common symptoms are a severe wear pattern on the pin and flaring of the latch “throat” caused by it dragging on the pin.

All of these symptoms are caused by worn hinge pin bushings.

 

[Tyler Wagner]

Yes, it can. A sagging door causes item #11 to drag on the latch pin in the door jamb.

First order of business is to get the door open. You may have to get a couple of plastic door shims from Lowe’s or Home Depot to gently wedge under the door to get it level so you can open the door. You may want to enlist a helper to press up on the back of the window opening while you slide the shims in a the bottom.

Once you get it opened, take a close look at the latch pin and the latch(#11). The most common symptoms are a severe wear pattern on the pin and flaring of the latch “throat” caused by it dragging on the pin.

All of these symptoms are caused by worn hinge pin bushings.

Perfect, I did it myself already and noticed on the latch pin severe "ripples" almost looked like a screw. So it would seem I need to take the door fully apart and buy new pieces?

 

[Cowboytrukr]

Yes, that is correct.

Depending on the severity of the wear on the hinge pin bushings, you may have to weld the holes shut and drill them out again, if you’re comfortable with a welder. That is something entirely beyond my skill set, but a friend mentioned it several years ago on another forum.

I’m remiss to spend other people’s money, but do not waste your time with the Dorman hinge pin kit. They’re more expensive, but do get the ones from the dealers.

If the latch throat is flared, replace the latch as well.

 

[Tyler Wagner]

Yes, that is correct.

Depending on the severity of the wear on the hinge pin bushings, you may have to weld the holes shut and drill them out again, if you’re comfortable with a welder. That is something entirely beyond my skill set, but a friend mentioned it several years ago on another forum.

I’m remiss to spend other people’s money, but do not waste your time with the Dorman hinge pin kit. They’re more expensive, but do get the ones from the dealers.

If the latch throat is flared, replace the latch as well.

I'm almost tempted to just go to a junker and get another door. This ones been a hassle since i rebuilt it. The motor was shot and the window was busted and all electrical was shot. I replaced it all and now this ugh lol. And I don't own a welder so that's not an option lmao

 

[Cowboytrukr]

It’s a common problem with these trucks, unfortunately. Wish I had better news. I’ve done hinge pins on both my ‘94 and ‘95.

Also had the broken inside handle issue with the ‘94. Bought a replacement from the Zone. That truck had the flared latch and chewed up pin. I replaced the latch salvaged from a ‘98 Burb that was in perfect condition. Never could really get that door plumb even with GM hinge pins. Got it good enough to not break the inside handle again. Sold it 5 years ago so I don’t know if it lasted.

Let me know if I can help any further.

 

[Tyler Wagner]

Will do, I'll check the junkers around here (need a rear bumper anyways) and possibly use my door for parts (has a massive rust hole anyways)