[torqydd]

I was up at the local auto zone and they sale energy suspension products. I am going to replace the factory sway bar mounts with grease able ones just have to measure the diameter of the sway bar for that one. But I also want to replace the factory sway bar end links as well.

I am running a 2.5" level kit from tgc on a 2008 chevy silvy z71 and was wondering should the end links be longer to accommodate the lift or shorter. I was reading something while at the store on some random forum that a guy went 3/4 shorter which didn't make sense to me seems like it should be the other way around. Which ever way it needs to me does anyone have an idea of what length I should get for a 2.5 level to put the sway bar back in the same position as it would be stock.

 

[silveradotrailblazer]

You don't need to buy the entire end link, you can buy just the bushings. Your stock end links length is fine with a leveling kit.

 

[torqydd]

The only reason I was thinking about replacing the whole setup was that when I actually crank them down to where they are supposed to and torqued properly the front end pops like crazy. I went through a whole bunch of stuff trying to figure it out and finally i got some one in the shop or someone who knew a lot more than the people that answer the phone and was told to leave just 1" of thread at the top of each link showing. Which is in my opinion not where is should be and is no where being at the right torque spec.

At stock height the sway bar is almost flat straight across and now with kit is points down and was thinking longer ones would bring it back to it normal resting spot as stock. I could just be having a picky moment but not sure. I like things to function properly but not saying its not just maybe not at is full potential.

 

[stephan]

At stock height the sway bar is almost flat straight across and now with kit is points down and was thinking longer ones would bring it back to it normal resting spot as stock. I like things to function properly but not saying its not just maybe not at is full potential.

You're correct. With the sway bar pointing down & tightened at that point it will be close to bind, & when you go in & out driveway approaches (or other slow rollers or dips) & the body starts to lift, the angle will be worse & the edges of the sway bar holes will be starting to grind on the bolts rather than being captured by the rubber bushings. You're on the right track. To put the sway bar back to it's normal angle of attack, you need longer links that are equal to the amount that you lifted it. This will put the bar geometry back where it belongs:great:

 

[torqydd]

dang stephan got your knowledge on both my questions. I have been out of the truck seen for a long time but thankfully found a good forum where folks don't mind helping out. Maybe one of these days I will be able to help instead of always having questions.

With your thoughts I just need to go back up and see what sizes they offer locally and do some measuring.

Thanks to all for there input now I just wonder why these companies dont offer extended links as apart of the kit or have some kind of added option when ordering.

---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 PM ----------

dang stephan got your knowledge on both my questions. I have been out of the truck seen for a long time but thankfully found a good forum where folks don't mind helping out. Maybe one of these days I will be able to help instead of always having questions.

With your thoughts I just need to go back up and see what sizes they offer locally and do some measuring.

Thanks to all for there input now I just wonder why these companies dont offer extended links as apart of the kit or have some kind of added option when ordering.

Dang nickle and dime stuff it'll get ya every time

 

[stephan]

I think they don't include the links in their kits because it would just drive the cost of the kit up, & most people would buy the cheaper kit from Supplier B without the links, not knowing the reason for the longer links & bolts. Plus, when most people had this problem, they would call them back & ask WTH & then they'd tell you "oh you need the longer links" & then they have sold you on both parts. Kind of like you said (nickle & dimeing you ha ha) They lure ya in, then drop the hammer... Lifting the front affects more than just the sway bar. It also increases ball joint angle & tie rod angle, which in turn leads to bump steer. Raising the rear affects drive shaft angle which takes out U joints before their time. IMHO lifted & leveled is the only way to go, but there's no free lunch

 

[torqydd]

I would agree just not in the budget at the moment. I did do another look under to take a look see at the ujoints and the rust is still there (was a nothern truck). At some point this weekend I will be able to get the new blocks in and see maybe if it is the block itself that is the issue and after that if it still does it guess Ill have to call in a favor to where I used to work. until then i will keep tinkering with it. Thanks for the ideas and areas to look at stephan maybe a light bulb will turn on in the mean time

---------- Post added at 08:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

oops wrong post forgot which one i was on

 

[stephan]

Ha ha, yeah I was getting confused switching back & forth too.