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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, my front steering components are on their way out. So, I plan on doing upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms.
I figure while I am up there I'll go a bit further and replace the axle shafts, hub assemblies, and brake calipers, rotors and pads.
Any other suggestion? What'd I miss?
1996 K1500, 163,000 miles.
Thanks for the input.
 

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Ok, my front sterring components are on their way out. So, I plan on doing upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms.
I figure while I am up there I'll go a bit further and replace the axle shafts, hub assemblies, and brake calipers, rotors and pads.
Any other suggestion? What'd I miss?
1996 K1500, 163,000 miles.
Thanks for the input.
Stainless hoses, don't do all of that and not do the hoses! You should go the stainless right up front.
I am sure you would regret it if you don't. I have a 96 K1500 and K2500 and am in the middle of the 2500 right now just finished the 1500
 

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Crap was so bad in the 1500 I had to replace the BCM lucky hopefully you are still pumping clear!
 

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What do you think guys? If my BCM was that bad, should I go the distance and do the MC and assist?
Never asked but has been in the back of my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll cross the BCM/MC bridge if I come to it...doing what I need to under the front end at the moment.
Up next/during the front end OH is changing fluids in the Trans, TC and both differentials along with a U-joint check and probable shock upgrade.
 

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I'll cross the BCM/MC bridge if I come to it...doing what I need to under the front end at the moment.
Up next/during the front end OH is changing fluids in the Trans, TC and both differentials along with a U-joint check and probable shock upgrade.
All good and have done all the above plus on both trucks this past summer
 

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All good and have done all the above plus on both trucks this past summer
Shocks go with the ones for theK2500 direct fit to the 1500
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haven't decided on shocks yet but figured I should do that while I was doing the rest. Had a new intake gasket, oil filter adapter, water pump and windshield washer pump dealt with last spring. Top-end tune up will happen in March/April. We took 5,000 miles worth of trips this past year+a few weekend excursions. No major trips planned this coming year, just weekenders, etc... New baby on the way and all
 

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Good job on the trips, have to get those in. Congrats, hope all goes well.

Your front end is a good place to maintain. Check those fluids , oil is your cheapest mechanic.
Best to get them topped off before something happens, and not sure if you have the history on ur truck.
But, 96', well, that's a couple years.

Pictures ya got pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll get a few pics up in the next few weeks...she's no show vehicle. Placed my orders today for parts. Decided to go with new upper control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman & idler arms, brake calipers, pads & rotors, hub assemblies and cv axles.
 

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Sounds great MNM, CV's and wheel hubs, I just want to ask. Are your's bad that you have now? Might be a tough question, and I understand. Sometimes it's hard to just reach in a pluck the correct bad part out of a few possibly, bad choices. I am ending up replacing all you just mentioned on my 2500, but I seem to find my suspected bad parts show when I fix a neighbor.

My 1500 just ate all at once, easy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nothing showing on the CVs or hubs that I know of but I figure since I'm under there and have the spare cash to do it, I may as well. Even a mechanic friend of mine suggested I could wait but I really don't want to have to get back under the front end for a while...plus I like having a known quantity on my hands.
 

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Oh I agree with you, I was just curious. Heck you might want to put them on
Craigslist an recoup a few bucks. New parts most likely have a limited lifetime
Guarantee so keep the receipts and in 2 years "refresh" the refresh. Keep it all
Nice and tite. It will be a good job done.
My problem now is -10 weather. Shop isn't done and hard to heat the way it is,
Heart attack in Aug. Not supposed to be breathing or laboring in the cold.
Throw of the dice I suppose. Wife try's to keep the dice hid!
 

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Great idea to replace those front hoses with braided stainless steel. I noticed a major difference in pedal feel with mine when I did it. One thing I would add, I am pretty sure that on you 96 the rear brakes are plumbed right to the wheel cylinder with solid steel lines. But, there is a rubber hose that runs from the frame to the junction block on the rear axle. You might as well replace that hose with a braided stainless also. I have found that getting braided stainless will run about $20 more then rubber, that $20 is total for all 3
 

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Great idea to replace those front hoses with braided stainless steel. I noticed a major difference in pedal feel with mine when I did it. One thing I would add, I am pretty sure that on you 96 the rear brakes are plumbed right to the wheel cylinder with solid steel lines. But, there is a rubber hose that runs from the frame to the junction block on the rear axle. You might as well replace that hose with a braided stainless also. I have found that getting braided stainless will run about $20 more then rubber, that $20 is total for all 3
Thanks Pikey
 

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My problem now is -10 weather.
Heart attack in Aug. Not supposed to be breathing or laboring in the cold.
Throw of the dice I suppose. Wife try's to keep the dice hid!
damn hard not to breath, even if it's -10. You take care of yourself (sorry, that probably sounded like your wife, haha).
 

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Stainless hoses are in the order as well, forgot to mention those.

You won't regret those. 3 right? 2 up front and 1 to the distribution fitting.

And yes Ray pretty much like the wife, but thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yep...picked up the set of 3 (Russel) Also, decided to go with new shocks as well. Nothing special there, adding spring assist shock to the rear to help with towing....
 
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