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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like I'm going to be doing this fairly soon. I'm pretty good at this stuff so I'm not worried, but has anyone out there done this job before??? What brand of replacement parts did you use? And I can't seem to locate the front brake dust shields anywhere...WTF?!?!?!
 

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YouTube has a plethora of videos showing the procedure.

I did wheel bearing changes on my older vehicles but after watching a number of videos on the process for my Silverado I decided it was safer to leave it to my mechanic.
 

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It is pretty easy and straight forward. If you rent the slide hammer axle puller from the parts store it makes getting them out easier. Timken or moog are the only 2 brands that I will install. The cheaper units usually fail within a year or two. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you can retorque the front axle nut
 

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It is pretty easy and straight forward. If you rent the slide hammer axle puller from the parts store it makes getting them out easier. Timken or moog are the only 2 brands that I will install. The cheaper units usually fail within a year or two. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you can retorque the front axle nut
And make sure it is a BIG torque wrench. Those nuts go to 175 ft lbs on a 1999 K1500. Might be more on the 2500. Make that a BF Torque wrench. :D Pull up on the wrench, don't push down. Your weight does not equal torque. Does one side have reverse threads on the axle nut? Make sure.
 

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Also, you want to preload the bearing before torquing it. Get it all back together, put the tire on, lower the truck back to the ground and then torque the axle nut.
 

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Its the same as mine and its relatively simple. Ive done it 3 times, the last unnecessarily:(, so I have a used but good front hub bearing sitting around;). Use Timken or Moog. I found my last one on Amazon for 150.00 as its one unit, bearing, hub, ABS. Rockauto, summitracing, etc were all almost $100 more. The hub bolt is a 36mm and its torque spec is 177 ft lbs and of course my torque wrench only goes to 15o:mad:. Since its all one unit and not a serviceable bearing you can tighten loosen a little and retighten, get it as close as possible and you can finish torqueing if needed with the tire on and barely on the ground to make it easier.

You can loosen the hub nut with the wheel on to make it easier to get off later. Take off the wheel, brake pads, caliper and caliper bracket (this bad boy has a torque spec of 221 ft-lbs) and rotor. Once you get these off finish removing the axle nut and push the axle in slightly so you know it can go in and out. Remove the nuts holding the hub to the spindle and remove it. The backing plate dust shield is just on the back of the hub and shouldn't need to be replaced with a new one. Install is the reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just for the record, I usually buy ac Delco for stuff like this, but at nearly $500.00, I said eff thet. Got a pair from Detroit Axle off Amazon...$120 for 2!!!! with a 1 year warranty...No bad reviews on their stiff that I could find, so...we'll see!!
 

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Its the same as mine and its relatively simple. Ive done it 3 times, the last unnecessarily:(, so I have a used but good front hub bearing sitting around;). Use Timken or Moog. I found my last one on Amazon for 150.00 as its one unit, bearing, hub, ABS. Rockauto, summitracing, etc were all almost $100 more. The hub bolt is a 36mm and its torque spec is 177 ft lbs and of course my torque wrench only goes to 15o:mad:. Since its all one unit and not a serviceable bearing you can tighten loosen a little and retighten, get it as close as possible and you can finish torqueing if needed with the tire on and barely on the ground to make it easier.

You can loosen the hub nut with the wheel on to make it easier to get off later. Take off the wheel, brake pads, caliper and caliper bracket (this bad boy has a torque spec of 221 ft-lbs) and rotor. Once you get these off finish removing the axle nut and push the axle in slightly so you know it can go in and out. Remove the nuts holding the hub to the spindle and remove it. The backing plate dust shield is just on the back of the hub and shouldn't need to be replaced with a new one. Install is the reverse.

DS, I see you have a 2500 and I just replaced my front hub on the passenger side(yes I have the other side waiting for warmer weather) anyway. On my 99 2500 the hub has to come off before you can remove the rotor. Reason I mention this is, the 4 bolts that hold the hub on from the back side can be a real #### especially if you round 1 of the 2 recessed heads. Get the grinding stones out it's going to be awhile. Anyway practical observation(use antiseze when you reinstall, never know if you are going to need replacing the rotors. If like me you had a hell of a time. You replaced the rotors then and their!
 

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DS, I see you have a 2500 and I just replaced my front hub on the passenger side(yes I have the other side waiting for warmer weather) anyway. On my 99 2500 the hub has to come off before you can remove the rotor. Reason I mention this is, the 4 bolts that hold the hub on from the back side can be a real #### especially if you round 1 of the 2 recessed heads. Get the grinding stones out it's going to be awhile. Anyway practical observation(use antiseze when you reinstall, never know if you are going to need replacing the rotors. If like me you had a hell of a time. You replaced the rotors then and their!
Well that sucks
 
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