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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone throw me some info on removal of the blower motor rubber cover so I can get at the blower motor for its removal? It looks like a real pain to do. I cannot see how that darn cover comes off. I have 2 shop manuals but they do not show how to remove the cover/motor. I have replaced about everything else on these trucks but this.

Thanks for your help!
1993 Sierra
1997 Suburban, Discovery Conversion

FYI: I am on the 9th fuel pump for the Suburban within the past 45,000 miles, 4 in one year. Is there a support group for those like me?

Bryan
 

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blower motor

Can anyone throw me some info on removal of the blower motor rubber cover so I can get at the blower motor for its removal? It looks like a real pain to do. I cannot see how that darn cover comes off. I have 2 shop manuals but they do not show how to remove the cover/motor. I have replaced about everything else on these trucks but this.

Thanks for your help!
1993 Sierra
1997 Suburban, Discovery Conversion

FYI: I am on the 9th fuel pump for the Suburban within the past 45,000 miles, 4 in one year. Is there a support group for those like me?

Bryan
I'll look in the morning, it's -6 f right now and I ain't going back outside.

LOL yes we have a support group for fuel pumps, of course.

With that many tank drops you must be a pro. Whats your best time, I think I’ll start a thread on just pump removals.

Times.

How many other things do you brake in the process. You know simple things.

Costs.

I have seen and heard off people cutting a hole in the bed just over the pump and then making a cover plate.
 

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It should just slide off the motor, but you'll still need to manipulate it around the tight areas up under the dash. Have you taken the dash apart yet, or were you trying to get it done without touching the dash much?

I just checked mine, and it slid off, but I wouldn't be able to remove it without babying it past the dash, or taking the passenger's side apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can pull the cover away around the edges a bit, but it feels like it is mounted to in some way.... a real pain for something that should be easy.
Please do thow some input my direction when you can. I have only high left on the fan speed setting and it is squealing like crazy as well.

On the fuel pump thing... I just put my 9th in earlier this week. Something I always have to do is change out the the spark plugs, they get fouled badly for some reason even though the engine wasn't getting gas. I still have yet to change the plugs for this last pump change, then she will fire right up.

Not until the 5th pump did I pull the carpet up cut an access hole (it took me a while to learn my lesson on this deal) I did this when I had the tank dropped of course. I am sooooo glad I did this.

I haven't broken anything in the process of doing this. I do wish the pump harness had a bit longer wires so I wouldn't have to get under the truck to disconnect. There are some very basic engineering/common sense issues that should have been corrected before any of these trucks were built... but hey, it doesn't have to make sense does it.

Last fall I helped a neighbor change his pump fairly fast on a 94 Sub. He was trouble shooting the relays, ect. I told him what the problem was, he didn't want to believe me but went with me on it and the truck fired right up on my mark when the job was done.

I have earned my stripes on this fuel pump thing. I have changed every one myself... just me, and didn't blow myself up in the process... yet. Questions on pump related issues? Try me, I "might" be able to help out.

Thanks,
Bryan
 

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I'm not sure what else to say about the rubber cover for the fan motor. I can tell you that it did have resistance when I pulled on it, but it gave way fairly easy. Not like something broke, but more like it released. I looked through my book to double check, and it doesn't indicate anything about the cover, so I'm inclined to think that it snaps into place, and just takes a little tug to break free.

Maybe someone else has some input on this.
 

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Blower speed is controlled by a circuit board, used to be under the hood on the ac hood.

Now they are under the dash, not bad to get at, if you can stand on your head.

The older ones looked like a triangle peace of plastic with 3 screws. It had 3 or 4 coils of wire on the inside. The new one is a circuit board.

So if you still only have 1 speed when you get the new motor in, that’s your problem.
 

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On my 93 burb, I undid the dash on the right side by loosening the nut on the stud mounted on the A pillar. The dash comes up enough to let my big mits maneuver in the confines. Cover came off with a tug. I pulled the glovebox liner and removed the big silver computer just underneath for a little more room to work. Check my post on heater fan removal for more detail.

On the fuel pump side, my mechanic recommends keeping the fuel tank at 1/4+. He says the fuel is the coolant for the pump and they overheat when the tank is below that level.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I hope to dig into the blower removal today. It is a bit cool out there this morning and I have a couple other projects going on in my shop right now so I think this is an outside thing today. The resistor for the speed control... is that not located on/near the blower motor? Does anyone have a location on this?

Concerning the fuel pumps.... fuel level is not an issue. Even at 1/4 of a tank the majority of the pump is not even submerged for effective cooling.
On my Sub with the 42 gal tank with it at half full, the top portion of the pump is sticking out of the gas. For 2-1/2 years+, by the time the tank is getting close to 1/2 full I am filling it again....it made no difference. In 2005 I went through 4 pumps. Of those, one lasted from Thanksgiving Day to Christmas Day, and one that was brand new from GM was bad right out of the box. I have heard all the 'fixes" and tried eveything... it doesn't matter. It is just a roll of the dice.
The pump is just a bad design that GM won't own up to. Our 97 Park Avenue has 205,000+ miles on it and has never had a pump replaced. We know many others with various GM products and have never replaced pumps.... unless they have a GM truck. I know of several people that have that are on their 5th or 6th pump... or more. As I said earlier, I just installed #9.

Overwhelmingly, the pump problem is with the trucks GM, that cannot be ignored. "If it looks like a duck, walks like a duck....."

If someone would come out with a different pump, not a rebuild on the bad design, a DIFFERENT pump that can be retro-fitted into these trucks they would make a million $$$!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With the pressure that the Vortec system requires simply hooking up an electric pump with a hose isn't really a quick fix option. On the TB systems the pressure around 15psi +- is a touch more forgiving with a very minor fluctuation in psi. The Vortec system needs rock solid pressure, very touchy.

A solidly made replacement would be welcomed by many!
 

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Back in my racing days, we used a Holley external electric pump that was adjustable. The current model is available from Jegs at: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_746594_-1_10307
You may want to try a hi-performance in tank pump like the one from Granatelli at Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_756609_-1_10307
I'm getting ready to have a look inside my tank. My gauge bounces wildly in turns and on bumps so I'm thinking the sending unit is going out and if I'm in there changing the tank sender, I'm definitely going to replace the pump.

 

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will those granatelli ones work in the trucks? it says only for camaros or firebirds?
 

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Can anyone throw me some info on removal of the blower motor rubber cover so I can get at the blower motor for its removal? It looks like a real pain to do. I cannot see how that darn cover comes off. I have 2 shop manuals but they do not show how to remove the cover/motor. I have replaced about everything else on these trucks but this.

Thanks for your help!
1993 Sierra
1997 Suburban, Discovery Conversion

FYI: I am on the 9th fuel pump for the Suburban within the past 45,000 miles, 4 in one year. Is there a support group for those like me?

Bryan
i just did mine today. im sure by now you fixed yours but maybe someone else may come looking for the answer. remove the glove box then unplug the silver computer box. From underneath the dash under silver box are two 7mm screws, loosen the but not remove. once that is done, return to the top through the glove box. on the left side of the computer there are two clips...remove them with a flat head screw drive. then you should be able to slide out the computer.there will be a black plastic pad that the computer was sitting on still there. to remove it use a 7mm socket to remove the 2 screws in the back. when that is done left up one the pad and remove it. then you will be able to see the top of the blower motor pad cover...left it up and slide it off. the pad is also connected on the bottom of the blower motor just above the floor don't forget to undo that one too. the resister is behind acollection of relays behind the glove box on the top left. use 7mm socket to remove the relay bracket the remove the two wire connections(they slide off. no need to press and tabs but they may need some finessing to come up and off. i used a flat head screw driver and it worked great) 2 7mm screws held the resistor on. Reinstall in reverse. Dont forget to disconnect the Battery before you start your repairs. I did this on my 94 gmc sierra i hope it works for you.
 
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