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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I came home from work, I decided to play in my snow pile alongside the driveway. The Explorer got stuck. I pulled the Suburban out of the garage and strapped it to the Explorer to pull the Explorer out. Put the burb in 4L and started to pull. I guess one rear was on snow and that all the rear torque was on one rear wheel, because the next thing I hear is a clunk/crack and the rear no longer pulled at all.:gasp: Managed to get the burb back into the garage in 4H/FWD, and put a pan under the rear diff to catch the draining gear lube. It looks like tomorrow's going to be spent shopping for a rear end. :grrrrrr:

I haven't yet pulled the cover to see what's really broken; I'll do that after the little ones go to bed tonight. I don't expect to see anything but a need to rebuild. At that point I'll have to decide:

1) Do I rebuild the existing 10 bolt? If so, do I put an open carrier in :frown: or do I put an aftermarket something in there (I'd really like a selectable locker)

2) Do I try to find a 14 bolt to put under there?
 

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I was just PMing someone on this very topic. If you're not a hardcore wheeler, don't waste your money. Rebuild the 10 bolt, but get some 33 spline axle shafts, a Detroit Truetrack, and a new gear set, and call it a day. If you go with a 12 bolt, there are other mods to be made, such as new or reman driveshaft to allow for the extra room on the pinion. and if you don't get one fro your specific vehicle, you're talking about fabbing/welding the mounts. BIG HEADACHE

ARB is a VERY NICE carrier/locker, but it is also very $$$$$$$$$$$$$. I wheel A LOT, and I don't even have ARB'S on my rigs.
 

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I'd have to agree, I'd rebuild before I'd throw a 14 bolt under there. There's just so much extra work that goes along with that. Just my 2 cents.
 

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What's the cost difference between the two options, just curious if you got that far into this yet. Sorry about your troubles though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From some limited searching online, it looks like:

~$200 for an open carrier
~$400-500 for a Detroit Truetrac LS or Detroit automatic locker
~$800 for a electronic selectable locker
~$800 + compressor for an ARB

all prices +installation kits and labor.
 

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From some limited searching online, it looks like:

~$200 for an open carrier
~$400-500 for a Detroit Truetrac LS or Detroit automatic locker
~$800 for a electronic selectable locker
~$800 + compressor for an ARB

all prices +installation kits and labor.

Electric selectable lockers like the Auburn ECTED aren't all that good. They use a series of clutches that wear out very fast. For what they cost, you're better going with either OX (cable activated) or ARB (air activated).

I am totally against using a fully locked rear axle on the street. Just my .02.

BTW. Do some more searching online, because $200 for an open carrier is way too much. I'll do some research on my end, but that shouldnt be more than $120
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BTW. Do some more searching online, because $200 for an open carrier is way too much. I'll do some research on my end, but that shouldnt be more than $120
~$200 was for the both the carrier and "guts" (spider gears etc.) since I have to replace it all. You're right that ~$120 for the empty carrier was about the most I saw them for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Chalk it up to middle age/second childhood, or something in the stars or whatever you want. I talked myself (and the "boss" let me talk myself) into dumping the extra cash into an ARB. If there are no delays in parts delivery, hopefully I'll have it back by the end of the week. There's a good chance I'm going to regret this, but I also knew there would be a good chance I'd regret putting an open carrier in there, too. I'm kind of excited, but I'm not looking forward to writing the check. I'm off to change my signature to reflect the change.
 

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ARB's a good choice. I've had a couple over the years.
Couple tips for ya:
Watch the copper line in the diff they have a habit of cracking during install.
Make sure the copper line is sealed well when exiting the diff, I've seen more than a few leak gear oil out or water in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the tips.

Does this copper line crack inside the diff? I'm not doing the install, so I'm going to get it back after the diff is sealed up. I can use a little imagination and guess what the symptoms of a cracked line would be (air leaking out of the vent tube while engaged and frequent compressor cycling while engaged), but any other help looking for this would be appreciated.

What's the best way to seal the copper line as it comes out of the diff?

The other concern I've heard with these is the plastic lines running from the compressor to the diff crack and break. I'm considering going to steel tubing, once I figure out what kind of fittings they use.
 

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Yep inside the diff, the cracks usually occur where the line is bent to work it's way around the carrier. Your guess is right on only add Locker not engaging when needed the most.
The best way to seal is to add a dab of silicone sealant around the tube where it exits the diff. some installers do this and some dont. make a habit of checking the sealant every once in a while, it seems to vibrate loose.
The plastic lines are normally ok, but in cold weather (like you get in Utah) they get brittle. Instead of hard lines look at flexible rubber hose (air compressor hoses), most industrial supply houses sell extra long air compressor hoses that work perfect for this type installation. All the fittings are standard AN air fittings and can be purchased at most industrial supply stores, you may need a reducer or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I brought it home late last night. Now we just need to find a chance to test it :)

The installer didn't leave a users manual for it (I've got the locker and compressor installation manuals). My first question right now is if the locker can effectively be engaged "on the fly" or if you need to be stopped. I'll probably go by the shop on Monday and see if he has it.
 

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I always stop to lock in my ARB, I know people that shift on the fly but every time I try it I get grinding.
But I also stop to shift the T-case too, an old habit from the days before shift on the fly T-cases.
 
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