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Discussion Starter #1
This past Monday, the wife and I were heading out in my truck to run some errands. Me on my side, and she on the passenger side of my 2014 Silverado. All of a sudden she says ... "why is the floor over here so wet?" Well I didn't know why, so I pulled back into the parking lot and started looking. It wasn't the heater core since there was no smell or feel of anti-freeze. It had rained pretty hard the previous couple days, but the window and the door were both closed tight, and besides the 'wet' was way up high under the dash. Far too high for a window down or door open problem. So, do to some health issues I reluctantly took it to the dealer and gave him all the same info and asked him to do whatever was needed to find the answer.

He called yesterday and said that they finally had determined the heater box seals were bad and leaking water. OK, that sorta makes sense from where and how the 'wet' was showing up. He said my extended warrentee would pay for it all but the deductible if I wanted it fixed. I said 'well yes', how long? He said he would have to order seals but shouldn't be more than a 3-4 days. Tomorrow is day 3, so I'm hoping to get my truck back. We'll see.

In the meantime, has anyone any info on heater box seals leaking? Is this something common to the <> 2014? And even if the seals are bad, where is the water coming from to get past the seals and into the floor? The heater box is pretty high up on the firewall inside isn't it? In a severe rain, just how would any water get to the firewall in order to leak in around the heater? I'm at a loss to believe this maybe, but I guess it's possible ??????

Now, I can't even be certain the floor hasn't been wet before Monday because it's very seldom anyone rides in the right side seat to have noticed it. It could have been wet several times and just went unnoticed. But I'm skeptical of that since the carpet shows no sign of fading, or mildew, or any other sign of repeated wetting. I'm reasonably convinced the wet carpet/floor was a first time thing and due to the exceptionally hard and nearly non-stop rain we had seen the past few days.

So, what say you gurus of all things GM truck related. Can anyone shed a little light on this for me? Especially, even if the seals are bad, where is the water coming from to get to them?

Thanks and regards,
Jumpinjoe
 

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 460k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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So, I just finished reinstalling the interior in my 04 Suburban because of severe saturation after long road trips. (2x to GA. Wife: "Why are my feet wet?) This was due to the downturn tube on the drain line for the AC box falling off OUTSIDE the firewall. Wind was actually causing the drain to back up into the cab at the firewall, which dumped out under the carpet. We noticed it after it had soaked all the way back to the third row floor.

We solved the problem with about 12in of the appropriately sized rubber tube. Hose clamped it over the tube and zip tied it pointed down on the frame somewhere.

166885
 

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2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3L 460k+ miles w/ GM rebuilt motor and trans
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I would like to give credit to my mechanic, who diagnosed this as soon as we mentioned "ridiculously wet carpet" without seeing the vehicle.
 

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the ac/heater venting plastic box has a drain tube . if pollen is a fallen in the air box then the drain tube gets blocked and the water will drop into the carpet on the pass side....
I have had this issue with all my GM vehicles .. that is why after the spring pollen is stopped fallen I clean up the air intake grill and inspect the drain tube for any obstruction ..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, here's the sad story ...... it appears the seal/s between the heater box and the firewall has/have gone bad and is allowing the water to enter the cab from the under hood side of the firewall. To replace the/these seal/seals requires total removal of the dash in order to get to them. And here's the kicker..... as it stands right now the flat rate manual says 19.2 hours to do the seal replacement. At nearly $180/hr, that runs about $3300.00 to replace a seal or seals that can't possibly cost more than $20. On the other hand, not replacing the seals will ultimately lead to a rotten carpet, probably mold and/or mildew, and no doubt eventual rusting out of the floorboard. And I still don't/won't know how much of all the stuff under the dash may or may not be getting wet. When I bought the truck back in 2015, I purchased with it an extended warrentee called "CostGuard" that seemed to be about as comprehensive as one could be at a cost of $1800 for 84 months or 75,000 miles of what I believed to be total protection. The truck currently has < 23,000 (that's right ...<23k) miles total on it and looks like virtually new. In fact the membership card actually calls the policy "COMPLETE" coverage. But as of this afternoon, the claim has been declined. Now in all honesty, I spoke to a couple reps at "CostGuard" and the jury is still out, sort of. The second rep up the line was unsure why the claim would have been declined and is pursuing it to another level. At this point, it appears I have no option but to 'bite the bullet' and pay for the repair with the hope that someone at "CostGuard" will see a different result and approve the claim. So, all that being said, can someone tell me just how the hell any water, rain or otherwise, would/could be running down the outside of the firewall in order to even get to the seals at the heater box. After all, there is a hood on the truck. Guys, I'm open to any/all suggestions, recommendations, and/or general info you might have to offer. I can understand that seals sometimes harden and crack, or fail some other way ...... but in this case how is the water even getting to these seals, good or bad? Thanks for listening to this really disappointed confirmed Chevy truck owner. Back with post about the bad deal of the butchering of the trim around the driver's side seatbelt I mentioned how many Chevy/GM trucks and cars I've owned over nearly 60 years of owning/driving literally nothing but GM, I'm really disheartened by this latest development. I really love my truck, it's everything I ever wanted in a truck. I paid a lot of money for it and don't want to see it go bad. But damn, more than $3k to replace a $20 seal is really getting to me. Let me know your thoughts.

regards,
jumpinjoe
 

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so when it rains out you have the leak ? if that is the cause then the windshield seal is leaking ...
what you should do also remove the air intake plastic grill on the bottom of the windshield.. inspect for debris blocking the water to drain out of that area.. then inspect for any body cracks in that area where the air enters the air box blower intake.
looks like you did not do inspection ? did you see any water leaking out the tube of the HVAC air box ? just a dealership GM rip off..
venting seals on my 2000 still not leaking 20yrs old ... but if water gets sucked into the HVAC box then you have to inspect it..
Like I said I do this inspection after the pollen stopped a fallen..
GM dealerships are a rip off because of the new GM is a china part mess.
my newest vehicle is a 2016 Toyota truck.. my 1996 Impala still running great.. but 2007 GM vehicles are crap made china mess..........
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks J cat, I did verify the AC condensate is draining properly to the ground, so I don't see that as a problem. And I'm only guessing about the rain .... when we first noticed the wet floor, it was a day or two after a couple days of serious, nearly non-stop rain. As I said earlier, it may be that the floor had been wet several times before we noticed it since it's very seldom anyone rides 'shotgun' in my truck. And I only drive it < once/week on average. At this point I have little choice but to accept the dealer's diagnosis of the heater box seals. But I'm still uncertain just how the (that much) water can get to the front/engine bay side of the firewall in order to get to any opening around the heater box.

As an aside .... I got a call this morning from the dealer who said they have the dash all out and awaiting the seals. He emphasized he had told the tech I was adamant about when it goes back together and I come to pick it up, I would go over it with a fine toothed comb and would not accept any 'out of alignments', mismatched joints, etc. Still expecting it back by the end of the week.

On another note .... got a call back from the "CostGuard" extended warrentee folks. Yeh, as expected, the claim was still declined. So, it looks like I'll foot the bill to get my truck back and dry. Still too valuable to not fix it and besides, it's basically the truck I've wanted all my life and could never afford. All the goodies I would have ordered and nothing more, the right gear, the right engine, all the right equipment & accessories, the perfect color, etc, etc, etc. If I had custom ordered the truck, it couldn't have been any closer to what it is. I hate the thought of giving it up and at my age it very possibly could be my last. So, what do I do but try to take care of it the best I can. I think I mentioned, it has <23K miles on it and has been maintained to the "TEE" ever since I've owned it.

Oh well, I'm still open to any other suggestions if you have them. I'll try to keep the forum updated as I can till this whole fiasco is over.

Thanks and regards,
jumpinjoe
 

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Joe, if rain is getting into the HVAC box, it has to be getting in at the base of the windshield. Between the glass and the hood there is a grill, it's designed to collect water and to get rid of it.
I have to say, I've never had that area apart; so I'm not much help.
But, it is designed to collect water, so there must be channels/hoses to drain the water.
However, I do not understand why there would be any need for a seal into the HVAC box.
Perhaps around the AC pipes and the heat pipes.
 

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put some paper around the area where the leak is , so when it rains out or use a water hose and spray around the windshield . then inspect where the leak is. paper will show the wet spot..
windshields do leak ..many had a rust hole under the seal area of the windshield..
so you saw water dribble out the HVAC drain tube so the HVAC box is good.............
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys for the suggestions. As I'm not real familiar with how the water is channeled from the cowl vents to the ground .... does anyone have a drawing or diagram of how the cowl vents are designed? I sure would love to see them so I have a better idea of just what the hell I'm dealing with with the dealer who is telling me it's "failed seals" between the 'heater box' and the firewall.

I'm still smoldering about the $3,300 to replace a $20 seal that should not have failed to begin with!!!!

thanks and regards,
jumpinjoe
 

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Discussion Starter #12
put some paper around the area where the leak is , so when it rains out or use a water hose and spray around the windshield . then inspect where the leak is. paper will show the wet spot..
windshields do leak ..many had a rust hole under the seal area of the windshield..
so you saw water dribble out the HVAC drain tube so the HVAC box is good.............
j cat, I don't have access to my truck to do any testing, it's at the dealer's being torn down for the seal replacement. They claim they did a pretty comprehensive water test with somehow using a water spray (I'm assuming they sprayed the firewall) to find the leaking seals. I did verify the AC condensate draining properly before I took it to the dealer but was not able to do much more than that.

I'd really like to know better just how the cowl vent system is designed and works before I go back down there. I've asked if anyone has any pictures and/or diagrams of how the cowl vents are designed. We'll see.

thanks and regards,
jumpinjoe
 

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how does rain hit the fire wall ? when it rains out the windshield many had leaks. most all the time when the glass is replaced most have leaks after the replacement .

when you pick up the truck have them hose it down before you drive it away ............
ask them did the lift up the hood and hose it down .. or did they hose down the windshield area with hood locked in place ?
 

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JumpinJoe I think you are missing JCAT's point. You keep referring to the AC condensate, and that's not what JCat is talking about.

You are saying you are open to ideas but i think you have missed him on this, and took a completely different track.

He is talking about the area where the windshield wipers are. Open the hood and see the black plastic cover and grids there. Supposed to let water flow off the windshield and hood and let it down behind the front wheels. But if they are clogged up with leaves, pine needles, pollen and what have you, water can sit under there and maybe get in under the lower edge of the windshield.

If you only drive this once a week or so, where does it sit parked? Any trees nearby with pollen or pine needles collecting at the bottom of the windshield? Or at the grids that are exposed to view when the hood is up?

I know it's at the shop now and too late, but food for thought and more maintenance at this point
 

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Hey Thundah, how ya doing.

Along with your suggestion that the water drains may be plugged and letting water get in under the glass; my thoughts are that the water can enter the Hvac from there.

Air is always flowing from the grill through the Hvac and out of the vents/floor/dash. The only time air doesn't flow from there is when the recirc button is on.

If air reaches the Hvac, water can as well.
 

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Hi RayV.

Doing alright, thank God. Hope you a d yours are as well.

The water getting in under the windshield at the vents was really more yours and JCat's thought. I just didnt see that the original poster catching it so I thought I'd put it another way.

Hope it helped, but I know he already authorized them to rip the whole thing apart. I hope it all works out for him. Partly for him, it partly because I also have a 2014!
 

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No post on how the water is leaking ?
the HVAC plastic venting seals is a rip off ..
 
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