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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I ma having a HUGE issue with my 93 Burban, it turns over and over and over, but will not fire up. I was driving my stepson home, turned off the engine to walk him to the door, when I came back... nothing. It just turns over and over and will not "catch". There was no strange behavior, it was running like a champ, something went wrong in the 2 min I had the engine off. I was wondering if Chevy puts those fuel cutoff switches that Ford uses in their cars. My stepson slammed the door and I thought if there was one in there it may have tripped. My only other thought is timing. Can anyone here let me know if it is a chain, a belt, etc...? I am really in a spot here so any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Madd
 

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Reminds me of the time I pulled into the gas sation and turned off my Blazer, filled it up then it would not start at all. No warning, no nothing. Ended up that the fuel pump went out and boy, that was fun trying to syphon the 31 gallons of fuel out of the tank before I could drop it:grrrrrr:
 

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fuel pump

Reminds me of the time I pulled into the gas sation and turned off my Blazer, filled it up then it would not start at all. No warning, no nothing. Ended up that the fuel pump went out and boy, that was fun trying to syphon the 31 gallons of fuel out of the tank before I could drop it:grrrrrr:
Turn key to on position, you should be able to hear the pump building up pressure, if not it’s the pump.

These guys are famous for the pumps going.
 

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My money is on fuel pump too. Been there before, its frustrating I know...
 

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I had a rotor break on an 85 Camaro. I thought it was a timing chain, so I took it apart to find a perfect chain (your Suburban has a chain by the way). Since then, if fuel is not an issue, I start at the distributor and pull the cap to check the rotor then turn it over to see if the rotor spins. Also check the ignition module. Some parts stores can run a test on these if you bring the module to them (I don't remeber if you module is in the distributor or external).
 

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Like Cdaddy said, the internal combustion engine has a few requirements to start and run.
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Timing
4. Compression
5. Oxygen (a given if you are alive and breathing)

Since your engine is cranking, but not starting we can move past battery and starter issues.

Compression? Let's assume the compression is OK, it is rare to lose compression on a running engine. You can test that last if you have to.

Fuel? Pull the air cleaner off and see if the engine will start with starting fluid. If it starts then it is probably fuel filter or the fuel pump. If it won't start move on to the other tests.

Spark? You can pull a plug wire loose and hold it near a metal surface of the engine to see a spark. I like to wedge a paper clip into the end of the plug wire and hold it near a valve cover bolt. If yes move on to timing, if no go ahead and pull the cap and rotor and inspect it. A visual inspection may reveal brown rust colored dust that is an indicator that you need to replace the cap and rotor. (May not fix the issue, but still need to be replaced.) If the cap and rotor don't fix it, pull the ignition module and AutoZone can test it for you. $35 for the module from AutoZone.

Timing?
While the distributor cap is off, crank the engine and make sure the rotor spins. If the rotor is not spinning you have a broken timing chain or broken distributor gear. If it does spin, get yourself a timing light and check the engine timing. If the timing is way off and you can't adjust it to spec, then the timing chain is suspect, or the distributor gear.

You didn't mention if the check engine light was on. You should pull any DTC codes to help with the diagnosis.
 

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i too would start with the simple.you know it is getting air so fuel and spark. mine was running fine then acted like i cut the battery cable. it was fuel pump and disti cap and rotor.

so look at the cap and see if it is ok and pull a plug wire and see if you get spark. look in the throddle body for fuel....mike
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:

The engine fires right up when its cooler outside and the engine has not been run for several hours. I am thinking it may be the control module. I had a friend take a look and he confirms this may be the problem.

We fired the engine this morning (65' F) and it fired right up. We let it idle for 5 min and killed it. Within 10 seconds I tried it again and no go. I know it has fuel, I took the air filter housing off and you could smell gas. Also, being that it runs VERY strong once started I am thinking the control module for ignition is hosed.

I am wondering if this sound plausible to you guys. Thanks!

Madd
 

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Update:

The engine fires right up when its cooler outside and the engine has not been run for several hours. I am thinking it may be the control module. I had a friend take a look and he confirms this may be the problem.

We fired the engine this morning (65' F) and it fired right up. We let it idle for 5 min and killed it. Within 10 seconds I tried it again and no go. I know it has fuel, I took the air filter housing off and you could smell gas. Also, being that it runs VERY strong once started I am thinking the control module for ignition is hosed.

I am wondering if this sound plausible to you guys. Thanks!

Madd
yes they can do that, the heat from the engine can make them stop working.
 
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