[j cat]

several years ago the 1995-1998 GM trucks had ignition switch problems. drive train codes and shifting issues.
1999-2006 GM trucks I have not seen this ignition switch , on the forum with these model years.shift solenoids is a common failure and wear on the valve body. 2005 had Dexron III in your tranny so that could damage the internals creating wear[acid] with the transmission fluid. 20K miles the fluid turns to acid .. 2006 GM dumped dexron III.. GM now changes to dexron VI on these 4l60-80 transmissions..
I dumped dexron III in 1999....
when I change my tranny fluids looks like new.. when I changed fluid when 2000 truck had 18K miles on it it, was nasty mess and a grayish color ....18K miles on it !

 

[j cat]

measure the voltages on the fuses in the fuse box .... fuses also can be checked for finger pins with corroded surface ...13.5-14.5 dc volts...

 

[Rperry505]

Hey Memo,
it’s not the key cylinder, it is the switch in the column. Mine was easy to get to using a bent pick for the plastic clips. Watch a few video. Pay attention to the positioning of the switch, there is a part that moves when the key twists, refer and match the old one before installing the new one, it takes a few minutes extra if you don’t. It could be your old switch messing with your key cylinder too. Hope things get better for ya soon. I just finished a fuel pump install 2 days ago, fired and runs great on the second try, feels great too.

 

[MEMO43]

j cat
I check voltage this weekend when I'm off
(911 operators get holidays off)

Rperry ill look up some videos on my downtime. appreciate the tip
I'm new to this forum and extremely overwhelmed with the help an responses

 

[MEMO43]

Well to keep this thread going, just heard back from the trans shop. all components in the Tcase an electronics are good. Apparently I have issues with the front differential
since they only do trans an basic tune ups I was told to take it to a drive line shop.
what all should I be checking for
axles
hub bearings?

as always thanks in advance

 

[RayVoy]

Assuming the teeth and the gears are good in the front diff, the only other part to impact 4wd, is the axle actuator.

 

[MEMO43]

Ray
thanks for the prompt reply
I know for a fact the axle actuator is good
I installed it new and tested before instalation.
ill check for axle play an look up some videos as far as gaining access to the gears. unless its the same as a straight axle set up

 

[Cowboytrukr]

Axle end play will confirm whether the snap ring broke.

 

[OpalLacod]

Did you mess with any of these things? I had the gear on backwards that splines into the actuator gear... Definitely screwed up the shaft by hitting it with a hammer to remove the gear, but that's a problem for another day.

 

[MEMO43]

Cowboytrukr
so by grabbing the exle shaft itself from the bottom an check for up an down moment or side to side to verify for the snap ring.


OpalLacod I haven't messed with anything internal
everything I replaced has been external and or electrical. ( whats that part called in your picture, axle.accuator housing)
I'm wondering if the shift forks in your pic is what broke on mine.
although I hear no strange noises when driving

These newer trucks are a bit challenging
with everything electronic or needing a scanner yo have the computer tell you ways wrong.
but can't complain with all the creature comforts.
I'll keep add it an post questions or findings as I go along.

 

[OpalLacod]

Folks, I have a question.

The picture I posted above is from the passenger side of a '00 Silverado. Is there an actuator on both sides of the differential to "lock the hubs" for each axle? I'm wondering if there is ANOTHER (third) servo to lock in the front drive shaft (always spinning) to the front diff gearbox (not always spinning). Are we missing an electrical component hidden somewhere? I'm going to have to go lay under a truck in a couple hours...

 

[Cowboytrukr]

Cowboytrukr
so by grabbing the exle shaft itself from the bottom an check for up an down moment or side to side to verify for the snap ring.

That would be in and out travel laterally with the axle shaft. If it’s much more than a few mm, as in like a 1/4” or more, that clip would be suspect.

 

[RayVoy]

Ray
thanks for the prompt reply
I know for a fact the axle actuator is good
I installed it new and tested before instalation.
ill check for axle play an look up some videos as far as gaining access to the gears. unless its the same as a straight axle set up

I recall you saying that earlier, have you checked the wiring harness going to the actuator?

 

[MEMO43]

rayvoy
all wires tested good as well as the actuator itself
if I remember correctly the plunger came out like an inch or so

 

[RayVoy]

rayvoy
all wires tested good as well as the actuator itself
if I remember correctly the plunger came out like an inch or so

I remember you saying that in an earlier post.

But, if you recall me saying, in an earlier post, after the plunger comes out, there is a signal returned to the control module to say "the plunger is out, operate the clutch".
We may have a plunger operating; but we may not have the signal going back to the module.

 

[MEMO43]

you think it could be the tccm behind the dash?

 

[RayVoy]

Always a possibility; but I change nothing without testing and inspection

 

[MEMO43]

sorry to keep this post dormant.
its official Something in the front diff is preventing the front axles to lock.
the driver side axle has very little if any lateral play. The passenger side has almost an inch of lateral play in it, guess a trip to the driveline shop to see what they can tell me. I'm almost tempted to remove the axle actuator housing out to see what I can discover, but never done it before I'd rather not cause any further damage. Even sticking a blunt object in the spot for the actuator I get resistance so something jammed or is stuck.
thoughts ideas or recommendations.
for now I can still drive it in 2wd, but defits the purpose of having 4wd, especially when the snow actually comes and its either chains or 4wd.
Good thing I just picked up new tires as well. should look good parked when it should be driven

memo

 

[Cowboytrukr]

There’s a clip on the passenger side axle that has come off. The housing does have to come apart.

 

[OpalLacod]

If your passenger axle isn't properly lined up with the stub from the differential when you push on the actuator, you're going to get resistance. You won't be able to manually engage the 4wd from there without all the parts and pieces lined up. There's also resistance from the spring, but I figure you mean you hit a wall.

Looking at the picture I posted above of the innards, I believe the clip Greg is referring to is holding the inner sprocket on (behind the spacer). These are a pain to work with and you have to remove the axle carrier (different word?) to put this back together properly if you pulled the axle in the past. It's not hard, just tedious.

Does anyone have a picture from a manual showing whether or not the spacer is on the correct side in my picture?