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Discussion Starter #1
Need to replace rear wheel bearings on 2000 silverado 4x4 ext. Cab w/short bed.
Manual doesn't tell you how to tell tbe difference.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Ben
 

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Need to replace rear wheel bearings on 2000 silverado 4x4 ext. Cab w/short bed.
Manual doesn't tell you how to tell tbe difference.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Ben

what you have is the eaton locking differential. most have the 3.73 gears. 5.3L engine .

you must remove the axles and install the bearings. simple job along with new seals.

with this I would wash [mineral spirits]out the gear box and make sure that the wheel bearing drain back holes on the rear cover are open. they only used one type of axle.

this is for the 8.5 ring gear on the 1500 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Timken-Differential-Bearing-Seal-Kit-Rear/_/N-6o3aj?itemIdentifier=364200&_requestid=1225827

" other bearings would be required with the 9.5 ring gear."


 

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Need to replace rear wheel bearings on 2000 silverado 4x4 ext. Cab w/short bed.
Manual doesn't tell you how to tell tbe difference.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Ben

Look at the hub...if there is a ring of bolts in the center of the wheel studs, its a full floater. They are almost always eight-lug (or more), unless its antique. The attached picture (courtesy of someone else) is a full floating axle, see the protrusion in the center of the wheel studs?



They are typically found on 2500s and 3500s, while the semi-floats are found on the 1500s.
 

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Need to replace rear wheel bearings on 2000 silverado 4x4 ext. Cab w/short bed.
Manual doesn't tell you how to tell tbe difference.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Ben
IIRC, only the 2500 and 3500 trucks have the option of a full floating axles. From your post it sounds like you have a 1500 so no floating axles.
 

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I was going to say that, but that darn 1500 "HD" drops in there...and I can't remember if it had the big semi-float or a Corp 14-bolt...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what you have is the eaton locking differential. most have the 3.73 gears. 5.3L engine .

you must remove the axles and install the bearings. simple job along with new seals.

with this I would wash [mineral spirits]out the gear box and make sure that the wheel bearing drain back holes on the rear cover are open. they only used one type of axle.

this is for the 8.5 ring gear on the 1500 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Timken-Differential-Bearing-Seal-Kit-Rear/_/N-6o3aj?itemIdentifier=364200&_requestid=1225827

" other bearings would be required with the 9.5 ring gear."



Thanks J cat! that's what I thought but wanted to make certain.
Ben
 

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I was going to say that, but that darn 1500 "HD" drops in there...and I can't remember if it had the big semi-float or a Corp 14-bolt...
From what I've read, the Silverado 1500HD only came in a 6'6" bed. The OP said short bed (can we assume 5'9").
 

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The OP said short bed (can we assume 5'9").
Not if it's a 2000. The crew cab 1500 didn't exist then. a 2000 short bed would be 6'6".
 

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From what I've read, the Silverado 1500HD only came in a 6'6" bed. The OP said short bed (can we assume 5'9").

I bet most owners don't distinguish between the short beds, its either a long bed (8-foot) or a short bed (everything else under 8-foot).

And I am pretty sure the one 1500HD I saw (only one of two I have ever seen) was an long bed...but that was a while ago, and it was only a "GM made a 1500HD?" thought at that time...
 

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From what I've read, the Silverado 1500HD only came in a 6'6" bed. The OP said short bed (can we assume 5'9").
the 1500 HD crew cab came out in 2001 I think. I know a person who got one in the fall of 2000.

the 2000 ext cab came out with 3 then 4 doors , but not regular doors like the crew cab.

I have the 2000 silverado sales literature.

In march 2000 I ordered my 2000 ext cab 4 door . in jan of 2000 is when they started making the 4 door model. this was something I learned was going to happen so I waited to see how it would look,before ordering.

In 2000 you could get the ext cab 4 door model with the long bed . I got the short bed. the long bed makes it a very long truck for my uses. 247 inches is the length
 

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Wait, you mean you have to remove axle just to change rear wheel bearing? Hey, I don't know much.
 

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Wait, you mean you have to remove axle just to change rear wheel bearing? Hey, I don't know much.
Yup, even on a full floater...

But on a semifloater, you pull the diff cover, pull the crosspin and spider gears (assuming an open diff), slide the axles in a tad to pull the c-clips, then pull the axles from the housing...a little more involved than a full float.
 

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Wait, you mean you have to remove axle just to change rear wheel bearing? Hey, I don't know much.
On my 1990 Silverado 3500 and my Dad's 2000 LS 3500 you have to pull the axle to even get to the brakes. On the 1984 Scottsdale we always pulled the drum when rotating the tires to check the brakes/drum and give it all a good blast of air to clean out any dust. Since you have to pull the axle to remove the drum on the 1990 & 2000 pads are only checked through the inspection hole and drums are checked when the pads need replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I bet most owners don't distinguish between the short beds, its either a long bed (8-foot) or a short bed (everything else under 8-foot).

And I am pretty sure the one 1500HD I saw (only one of two I have ever seen) was an long bed...but that was a while ago, and it was only a "GM made a 1500HD?" thought at that time...
OK I replaced the wheel bearings with no problems, but still have the whining noise, which after further investing found the noise was coming from the differenial. so back to Advanced auto for bearings. Had to remove the axials again and the rear cover and drive shaft. Now I can't find out how to remove the differential shaft. Got all the guts out of the differential but can't seem to fine out how you remove the inner and outer bearings. Any body know the combination?
Ben
 

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They press on and off. Is the noise load sensitive (more or less throttle) if it is then its probably just wear on the ring and pinion. Only way to cure that is to replace the ring and pinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
They press on and off. Is the noise load sensitive (more or less throttle) if it is then its probably just wear on the ring and pinion. Only way to cure that is to replace the ring and pinion.
a.graham,
the truck has 287,500 miles and the noise is throttle sensitive. Seems the loudest at about 40 mph and goes away when letting off the throttle. So if it is the ring and pinion gear how do I remove the pinion? If I can remove the pinion then I also want to replace the inner and outer bearings while I have it torn down. I've got the ring gear out already and the yoke and seal is off.

ben
 

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a.graham,
the truck has 287,500 miles and the noise is throttle sensitive. Seems the loudest at about 40 mph and goes away when letting off the throttle. So if it is the ring and pinion gear how do I remove the pinion? If I can remove the pinion then I also want to replace the inner and outer bearings while I have it torn down. I've got the ring gear out already and the yoke and seal is off.

ben
to do this I would have had a transmission / drive train repair shop experienced with these vehicles do the pinion work. you have to properly adjust things and that takes experience also specific detailed info to make the proper adjustments.

most of these vehicles do make a whine sound at the 40 MPH. if its not leaking I would just leave it alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
to do this I would have had a transmission / drive train repair shop experienced with these vehicles do the pinion work. you have to properly adjust things and that takes experience also specific detailed info to make the proper adjustments.

most of these vehicles do make a whine sound at the 40 MPH. if its not leaking I would just leave it alone.
l'm thinking about calling the local salvage yard & installing a whole new rear end. I'll just reinstall the new wheel bearings.
Ben
 
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