[ajaxajax2000]

Yesterday my lovely wife managed to get stuck in a parking house so badly that she ripped off the left rear wheel house flange and made an 8"x10" wide dent, approx 0.5 inch deep with a sharp horisontal scratch at the bottom. The dent is just aft of the wheelhouse and cant be reached from the inside. The car is a '03 Burb Z71 4WD.

I tried a suction tool, I tried to pull with a glue stick, I have now glued a slide hammer hook which I'll try tomorrow with a slide hammer. Don't hope too much on that, though. (se pic below)

I can't weld, so if everything else fails, I guess I'm forced to drill holes and use a screw and my slide hammer. I hate drilling holes in the car, though :grrrrrr: and would like to hear some other hints from you. Or at least if someone can tell me what to do with the drilled holes to minimize the risk of corrosion.

TIA

 

[Z-burb]

You don't have to drill holes., please don't. you need to find some one with a stud gun. It is a body tool that uses a gun to weld studs to the out side where you hook the puller to pop out the dent. no more need to drill holes and cause rust and much more work. The studs just twist off.

I have a stud gun and will help if you are close. I am in WY.

Tim

 

[ajaxajax2000]

You don't have to drill holes., please don't. you need to find some one with a stud gun. It is a body tool that uses a gun to weld studs to the out side where you hook the puller to pop out the dent. no more need to drill holes and cause rust and much more work. The studs just twist off.

I have a stud gun and will help if you are close. I am in WY.

Tim

Thank's Tim. And for your kind offer. But, I'm in Sweden, Europe. How does a stud gun work? Do you need welding knowledge? What do they cost? Can you recommend a brand?

 

[dwill3015]

You don't have to drill holes., please don't. you need to find some one with a stud gun. It is a body tool that uses a gun to weld studs to the out side where you hook the puller to pop out the dent. no more need to drill holes and cause rust and much more work. The studs just twist off.

I have a stud gun and will help if you are close. I am in WY.

Tim

Stud guns are the bomb! I have used those many times compared to the traditional drill holes/slide hammer and they are slick!

BTW Tim, Welcome to the site and way to step up and offer to help a Brother out:great:

 

[Holy Smoke]

Good Job Tim
and Good Luck Peter. Stay warm.

 

[Z-burb]

The stud gun works by electrically welding a small stud ( looks like a nail with a curved top of the head) After attaching the stud(s) to the damaged area. ( you do have to strip it to bare metal) you attach a puller to the stud. and pull the dent out. After you get finished you cut the studs off at the weld with side cutters.

Tim

 

[dwill3015]

I took a quick glance on Ebay and saw several ranging from $99-$300.

Here is a site that gives a brief description of how to use one.

The gun acts as a spot welder by welding a small rod to the bare metal allowing you to attatch a slide hammer with a drill type chuck at the end. You pull the dent then snip off the stud and grind the weld flush with the bare metal, prep, and paint.

 

[ajaxajax2000]

Thank's everyone for your response. I'm impressed!

I've been looking around without finding anything but the more expensive professional types here in Sweden. Do you think this would do?

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HS4500W&Category_Code=2SW

And - would an alternativ be a regular MIG weld and either weld the studs using the MIG or drilling holes, using screw/slide hammer and welding the wholes shut with the MIG?

Thank's again!!!

 

[Z-burb]

Peter, that one would be perfect don't really need a name brand or expensive one to get the job done.and a great price too. Mine is a $600 snap-on the same as the uni-spotter just red with the snap-on label.

I would avoid drilling holes if at all possible. any time unnecessary holes are made in the body. corrosion can form and be bad news. Plus being your truck is so new it can cause trouble with the corrosion warranty.

Tim

 

[tbplus10]

Do you have Dry Ice available in Sweden?
If so you can try this method.

Park the car inside overnight, if possible blow a heater on the dented section.
Wrap Dry Ice in gauze or cheese cloth (to protect the paint and your hands).
Rub the dry ice over the dented section, this should cause the warm metal to contract back to its previous position.

Works almost every time, the exception is if you have to large of a dent.

 

[ajaxajax2000]

Do you have Dry Ice available in Sweden?
If so you can try this method.

Park the car inside overnight, if possible blow a heater on the dented section.
Wrap Dry Ice in gauze or cheese cloth (to protect the paint and your hands).
Rub the dry ice over the dented section, this should cause the warm metal to contract back to its previous position.

Works almost every time, the exception is if you have to large of a dent.

Yea, I've seen that on a video the other day. It's quite impressive. Just pops out like nothing. This one is too deep though, and permanently deformed with a deep, carved valley in the middle. I don't think it would work in my case.

Tomorrow I'll be ready to do my own home made pull out method using the famous "Super Steel" glue lol and my slide hammer. (see pic) Hold your thumb's.

If it doesn't work, I'm getting a stud gun and do it properly.

BTW, I'm impressed by the thickness of the Burb panels. Feels a lot thicker than the ordinary Volvo!

 

[punkieys17]

Dent pulling - like dry ice but easier to find

Tim's right - heat the panel - but dry ice can be apain to find - its restricted in some countries.

Instead you can use freeze sprays - available in electronics stores for testing if a failure is due to components overheating or use air sprays available for cleaning cameras - and instead of holding it upright, hold it inverted and it will spray supercooled liquid.

The technique is great for dents where the metal hasn't creased. There is a demonstration on you tube - I will see if I get time to search for it....

Julian

 

[Crawdaddy]

Do you have Dry Ice available in Sweden?
If so you can try this method.

Park the car inside overnight, if possible blow a heater on the dented section.
Wrap Dry Ice in gauze or cheese cloth (to protect the paint and your hands).
Rub the dry ice over the dented section, this should cause the warm metal to contract back to its previous position.

Works almost every time, the exception is if you have to large of a dent.

Is there a time limit to this method? A few months ago I made a boo boo on my truck, dented both passenger doors near the rocker panels. My friend and I tried out the dry ice on his car in a few different spots with little small dings and it didn't work. Do I need to superheat the truck even further than a typical Louisiana/Texas hot day for this to work? Thanks

 

[tbplus10]

No time limit.
Make sure the panel is real warm before applying the Dry Ice. If the dents are to deep or you have a crease it wont work. Any time the metal has been stretched this method wont work well.