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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a lifted 95 chevy Silverado 5.7 l v8 tbi. It's been a money pit and a real bitch...

it ran 98 miles home. First week runs and starts fine then I replaced passenger exhaust manifold.. the next morning no spark. (I have checked flat cable ground by manifold and seems to be intact). So in a frenzy I replaced the distributor cap, rotorbug, ignition coil, ignition control module, plugs, wires, new battery, and found out through tracking a previous owner down that the ign starter switch was going bad.
You had to tap the box under the key to get your battery voltage to pop up and then it would start.. well next morning I tapped it got voltage to show and it still would not start. So I replaced the ignition starter switch low and behold she fired right up. it ran like ****, but had continuous spark for a couple days. Now it's back to not sparking.. I've also put some sensors in it to try to help its poor performance (running rich backfired some and smell the gas anywhere I drive in it) basically for the past 3 weeks it has ran whenever it wants no secret no magic it just starts sometimes.

Its obd1 when I try to jump my codes the old school way I'm not getting anything but the standard code 12 for diagnostic mode over and over again.

What do you think my next move should be? I dont want to Take to a Shop if I can help it..., should I Pull distributor(never replaced distributor just cap and rotor) or maybe buy timing light and check it out?
 

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Stop throwing parts at it. When you do, use only quality parts like AC Delco, Delphi, and/or Davis Unified Ignition. Cheap coils and ICMs (among other junk parts) don't last.

Here's a useful link another member posted here recently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses. I still have all the old parts. The icm is good though I guess I'll check the wires just to make sure but I have a multimeter and coul and icm tested fine. I'll run back through all the tests though as I'm not getting spark again. But everything put in was ac delco besides the ignition starter switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also it is the original distributor from a previous motor swap with 160 on it.. last time it ran was really rough felt like a bad map sensor or bad timing and rolled coal like a fucking diesel.
 

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@PlaywithTBI is right. They may be a little more expensive but going with factory parts especially electronics is a no brainer. There are quite a few threads were problems were fixed by installing factory parts even after swapping them out two or three times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So still out of all your guys opinions and my truck not getting spark all the time nobody has any input on if you think it's the distributor.? It was running rich when it did start rolling black smoke I'm just trying to figure out where to go next.

I'll get my aldl cable next week but havent purchased a diagnostic tool as my truck is the obd1 and it's not sending me any codes when I jump the a and b terminals. I feel that purchasing a diagnostic machine will be like spending 30 to 300 dollars on a paperclip.. to maybe or maybe not get a code but be more money wasted. Whereas the aldl cable will be able to tell me much more about my truck in general once I get it going.
 

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Again there can be lots wrong without throwing a code. Look at it this way a diagnostic tool gets cheaper every time you use it. You can use it on vehicles of friends and family as it does not require to be locked in to a specific vehicle. Not to mention it is convenient. You will use it quite often especially if you get one that does a wide range of brands and years. That is why I suggested the Actron. Being able to see live data is very beneficial. For example Using my diagnostic scanner I found an O2 sensor that was not working. No code. I would have never known that if I was not seeing it live.

What did you find out when you did the tests PlaywithTBI suggested?
 
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