[ollie5376]

HELLO ALL,
GET YOUR HANDKERCHEIFS, AS THIS IS VERY SAD...........

WHILE ON THE FREEWAY @ 65MPH, I CHECKED MY REARVIEW TO FIND BILLOWING SMOKE FROM THE REAR(AW CRAP!) UPON PULLING IT OVER & SHUTTING DOWN, I FOUND A NASTY DRIP(1-2 DROPS PER SEC). EVEN NASTIER SMELL OF BURNING OIL. DISCOVERED OIL BEING BLOWN ONTO EXHAUST PIPE NEAR THE FLYWHEEL COVER(SIDE NOTE: WHEN LAYING UNDER YOUR TRUCK ON THE SIDE OF THE EXPRESSWAY........WATCH YOUR TOES!!!!! OR PULL OVER MORE)

TRAILERED IT HOME W/ MY PAL'S SILVERADO-

CHANGED THE FITTNGS LEADING INTO AND OUT OF THE OIL COOLER ADAPTER(THE THING THE OIL FILTER SCREWS INTO.....YA KNOW) AS IT APPEARED TO ME THAT ONE OF THE RETAINER CLIPS INSIDE THE FITTING HAD BROKEN.(PLEASE LET THIS BE AN EASY FIX.....)

$17 BUCKS EACH-NO PROBLEM- DONE AND DONE

UPON RE-FILLING WITH OIL(20W-50 HIGH MILEAGE) I'M GETTING HIGHER OIL PRESSURE THAN I THINK I SHOULD HAVE- DASH GUAGE READS 60 LBS @ STARTUP-REGARDLESS OF THE TEMERATURE.

STILL LEAKING, BUT NOT AS BAD........SEEMS TO BE DRIPPING FROM INSIDE THE FLYWHEEL COVER, BUT THE FRONT OF THE FLYWHEEL WAS DRY.

MY GUESS IS THAT MY 248,000 MILE 1993 REQUIRES A NEW REAR MAIN SEAL(WILL THE TOP END WITHSTAND?)
OR A REBUILD(SHOULD I REBUILD A MOTOR WITH THAT MANY MILES)

OR A NEW 504 CRATE MOTOR FROM JEGS?

ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME!
KINDEST REGARDS!

 

[84fiero123]

RE: JUST WANTED TO HEAR IT FROM ONE OF YOU GUYS.

At the least pull the motor and get a good look at the entire motor before making any decision.

Then you will be able to make an informed decision as to what route to go.

If it is a rear main seal it will be so much easier to do with the engine out, plus you don’t have to pull trans, transfer and all other things just to get at the main seal.

That’s what I would do.

Also check compression, dry and wet. That will at least give you an idea of the condition of the inside of the engine.

 

[TrailLeadr]

RE: JUST WANTED TO HEAR IT FROM ONE OF YOU GUYS.

I'm currently rebuilding my 454, and it had 207k miles on it. It originally started because I broke the coolant quick connect on the back of the manifold, I was just going to fix that, but since I needed to pull the manifold to get at it, and the more I got into the engine, the more I decided to do the rebuild.
Sounds to me like you've already been considering either a rebuild or a new crate engine, so I wouldn't bother with just replacing the rear main seal.
If you have a 4x4, then you need to pull the engine to take the oil pan off, either that or take the front axle out :?
At that point you may as well rebuild or replace.

 

[esponet]

RE: JUST WANTED TO HEAR IT FROM ONE OF YOU GUYS.

if yoru rebuilding it to stock specs. then firts i would price out all the parts and labor needed. then i would price out a new crate motor.
then i would compaire the too, and decide which is a better more economical way to go.
a few thing i can think off. create you could probably do it in a weekend. so your only donw for 2 days. you could drive your burb till it quits or till the crate motor arives. but you have to trust who ever build it, that it is good.

rebuild. well it will take longer. generally a week if you act and move quiclly, but you know how the inside of the motor is. you know what parts went it and the quality is up to you.

if you have to pay someone to rebuild it then i say might as well put in a crate motor.