Just Did It
turns out to be, it's piece of cake. haynes did not know what they are talking about when they wrote in their manual that window needs to blowered/removed first to replace regulator.
1. take door trim off
2. there are 2 openings for window bolts in upper left and right corners, they attach window to regulator guides. losen them completely
3. remove all bolts securing regulator to the door
4. tape window to the door with tape to secure it in place.
regulator has 2 hooks, holding it in place. grab one guide at a time, and remove those hooks from the door by wiggling guides.
5. fold regulator and pull it out.
6. it's been said that motor is integral part of regulator. it's bull. it is just bolted on. so, you can save a buck by ordering motor kit from dealer or what ever else suites you. i had mine - regulator with motor - from 1AAutoParts.com, $110. motor kit is like 60 bucks. please, be aware that right after that purchase, i had my name and debit card number stolen and am still coping with fraudulent charges on my account. might be coinscidence, but - i'm done with buying over the internet. so, be careful with that website.
7. at this point, you can either replace motor, or replace the whole regulator with motor. mine came in half lowered, all i had to do was to attache guides and handtighten the bolts, then reconnect the switch and raise guides up until they locked on window.
8. tighten the window bolts; tighten regulator mounting bolts.
before you do all this, do a simple test: remove trim, then disconnect regulator and check if there's voltage in the plug when you turn on switch. many had wires failure and then that needs to be addressed, instead of replacing regulator. also, plug new regulator into the switch harness and check if it works, no need to assemble everything only to find out that it still does not work. in my case, motor was dead, but i had voltage in the plug allright.
takes about half an hour. lube guides liberally before reinstall. tools needed: flathead screwdriver, 7mm socket to remove 2 trim screws, 12 mm socket to remove window/regulator bolts. of course, all connectors in harness have different types of clips securing them, so either a narrow fleathead or a knife blade comes handy to undo some. they just could not make them all uniform, just had to be 5 different designs. corner door light is easier to remove if you have pocket pulled out, there's a screw on the bottom of the trim securing it in place.
2000 SILVERADO EXTENDED CAB.
oh, and i scoped new tundra yesterday. crew cab has less room inside than my truck. for 42 grand i'll have four trucks like mine.