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Discussion Starter #1
Last week I installed my new Rough Country front leveling kit on my 2010 chevy. That went smooth, directions were included but not necessary. After it was all done and re-aligned, my front end is a 1/2" high in the front. :grrrrrr:
So I ordered a 2" rear block (stock block is 1.25") I figured by taking the stock block off and adding the new 2" block, I'd gain 3/4"... Well things didnt go as planned. First off this thing didnt come with instructions. I looked on this site and found a couple of pointers. Heres one, you HAVE to take off the rear shock if you plan on leaving your tires on the ground. Jacked up from trailer hitched, removed old blocks, the rear end shifted horribly, installed new blocks but the rear end was shifted terrible b/c I forgot to block the tires:mad: The new ubolts were 5" longer than the stock ones and cannot be used because the shank is 9". I would have to add 1" of washers to use these bolts. Put everything back the way it was and my alignment is HOSED. So bascially I ruined my brand new alignment for nothing, I dont feel comfortable driving it 40 miles to work, so I have to "crab" it down the road to the alignment shop, with no rear lift. Guess when rough country sends me the right U bolts I be getting my 3rd alignment.:grrrrrr::grrrrrr::grrrrrr::grrrrrr::grrrrrr: OR maybe I'll just send the blocks back and not worry about it........
 

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Just a hint, do one side at a time in the rear. This should keep your axle in line. Good luck.
 

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Best way to do it is to raise the truck and support the frame on jack stands, remove the wheels and then use a floor jack under the axle so that you can remove the u-bolts, one side at a time. When you have the nuts off the u-bolts you should be able to lower the axle enough to remove the block and insert the new block. the blocks have a pin that locates in the axle plate and a hole that locates on the leaf spring, if you get these lined up your axle will be lined up.
 

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X2 what Adam said.

---------- Post added at 09:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:31 AM ----------

Also, welcome to the club.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok, I tried to limp this thing down the road to front end shop, and as soon as I hit 35 mph the service stabilitrak light came on, traction control off came on. So I turned around, pulled into garage and jacked it up again. This time I added the 2" blocks. NOTE: there IS room for error even when the male ends are in the holes like they are supposed to be! I loosened both sides again added the block, lowered and tighten up. I think I snugged everything last night before I lowered the jack :confused: But anyways, I added 1 inch of flat washers under each nut of the U-bolt to make up the difference until Rough Country sends me my 10.5" U-bolts. Everything seemed to go alot easier in the daytime :money: I did notice the passenger side of the axle was a hair farther forward than the drivers side. So I just chocked the tires, jacked it up again and rolled the wheel backwards. Lowered the jack and tightened everything down and seems to be fine. I have a 3:00 appt to get the alignment checked [again]. I must say, the 2" leveling kit up front made for a little stiffer ride, but not too bad. This 2 inch block in the back makes for alot firmer ride! (choppy best describes it) Is there anything I can do the soften it (besides taking the lift off lol) I cant believe the blocks made that much of a difference.
 

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Never heard of a 2" block making a choppy ride. I wonder if because you didn't have the axle lined up correctly it was binding causing the stiff ride???
 

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The block can cause axle wrap, I notice my rear end rode nicer when I removed the blocks from mine. Maybe this is what you are feeling.
 

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When I installed my first lift on an early 90's Suburban we installed the rear blocks and thought we put the alignment pin in the right spot. When we took the truck for a test ride we noticed the truck didn't ride straight. The rear of the suburban rode to the left a little. So it was out of alignment. We took it back into the garage and took the rear apart. Found the pin to be in one of the voids on the block. Put the pin in where it was supposed to go and it drove true. Is there a posibility that you did the same thing to yours? I know that a block will add to axle wrap issues, but with it being that small of a block I wouldn't think the problem would be that bad unless you are drag racing the truck. Which doesn't sound like what the OP was doing. I really do not like the washer stacking thing either. I know you need to get to work but that sounds unsafe to me.
 

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So I had kinda the same issue tho not as bad, but my rear toe is off some and I'm not really sure how to correct it
 

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Your toe? Some vehicle info please.

Is this with a rear independent suspension? Or is it a solid rear axle?

Ted
 

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Its a 2014 Silverado 1500 lt double cab. I put the 2.5" lift on, blocks in back spacers in front. took it to the alignment shop and they told me that the rear tires point slightly to the passenger side. Its not horrible and its just barely out of spec but I noticed it after the work was done. was it like that before and I had never noticed I'm not sure. like I said just barely out of spec and the shop said it wont hurt anything but it bugs me cuz I did it and its a newer truck
 

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If you can see it, it needs to be fixed.
 

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That's the problem is I'm not sure how to go about correcting it, and no one will touch it since its "aftermarket" had to go to three different alignment shops before one would even do that. I'm not sure why its off either, the centering pins are correct and in hole. according to the shop that did the alignment, spec for the REAR THRUST ANGLE (not toe, sorry I screwed up my wording) is 0.40 and mine is sitting at 0.42. It maybe "noticeable" to me just because I know it is, a couple buddies of mine say they cant see anything wrong. so yeah
 

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Find an old school alignment shop that's been around forever. They have the know-how to align your truck. An added bonus is they usually warrant the alignment for a year. In a modern alignment shop they think the computer will tell them everything. Tire shops probably know the best front end shops.

Before you go buy the ubolts if you have to and can the washers. Or park the truck till they come in. You might have enough play with the washers that one side is .20 forward and the other side is .20 rearward. And you don't want it moving around. Especially in the sweepers. :)

Ted
 

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trying to find an old alignment shop around here is ridiculous, everthing is new or a chain anymore. I don't know if I unbolt the ubolts and try to readjust it, the truck drives straight as an arrow, and the shop said it was so close to the tolerance that it shouldn't hurt anything and to keep an eye on it. The best way to fix would be to lift it up with the alignment stuff on it and loosen ubolts and adjust so its correct but I don't have that kind of access to that equipment
 
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