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My other daily driver/ weekend racer...

3506 Views 26 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Vink70
This was my motivation for getting a full size truck. Gotta tow this lil ol 4 cylinder to the track just in case something breaks....

old setup:

ill have to show the new setup when i get it more done.

Last years personal best was a 12.6 @ 117 in the 1/4 with sparks shooting out from a blown clutch all the way down the track... Im back this year with a Clutch Masters twin disc so that wont be an issue at all.

Mods happening at the moment are a tubular turbo header, bigger wastegate with all vband joints, 3" exhaust w/ cutout, bigger charge pipes, more accommodating intercooler, quite a few little goodies. Fab work/exhaust.jpg

Aiming for an 11.500-11.999 in the 1/4 since thats as fast as I can legally go, and I refuse to cage it since I have to do a 6 point minimum. I daily drive it too much to do that. I dont want to climb over bars to get in. hope to have it wrapped up by the end of july since im missing all the nice weather.

Any questions or more in depth, feel free to ask.
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Thanks again to Steve for getting this post approved so they now show up :)
That's pretty respectable for a 4 banger. Are you sure about the et break & the cage? It used to be a 4 point roll bar was required for 11.99 & quicker (a full hoop with a rear bar & the 4th coming down at a 45 between the drivers seat & the door)
When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like?
A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:

If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:

The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

So, I'm covered for now and well to be honest, as long as I own the car since im not planning on going faster than that for the life of the car. the reason it was changed was to generate more income for the NHRA certs, as well as quite a few factory cars being able to run faster than the times that say a cage is needed.
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No problem, I have looked into this quite a bit, just to be sure the car is as safe, and legal as possible.

Also, to stay legal, I have a clutch scatter shield for the car since im now running a Clutchmasters 725 Series Twin Disc. Still working on a turbo blanket as well as a engine diaper, since both are needed for a vehicle with an aftermarket turbo system.

Ill have my new helmet and fire jacket before I start racing as well.
will do. I plan to pick up a gopro this year as well and get the runs on camera. Ill post them up for sure. Will probably be a month or so before it hits the track :(
Motor is a stock 2.2L bored 0.020 over on stock sleeves. If I sleeve the motor with darton sleeves it's good to over 800. But I'm not gonna do that either once I get to my computer I'll post my minor(sarcasm) mods list.

I ran the 12.8 on the 100% bone stock motor at 16psi. And the 12.6 on the built motor blowing the clutch. I'll post carnage and replacement pics later. Let's just say the car would no longer move under it's own power.

As for traction. I slip the hell out of the clutch. It's the only way. Twin disc will take the abuse though. This year I have radials on light weight wheels to help even more. Don't want slicks just yet.

Axles... I'm still running my original stock axles. However I'm on trans number four. They don't make trans upgrades either so next option is face plate gears which are one off custom. I don't want tougher axles since it's cheaper to replace them than the next breakable part... The trans.

As for accessories, only thing removed is ac. Could have kept it but I needed the room and am a man and can run withOut it. Otherwise it's a base model I added power windows and locks.

Kit is a limited production kit that is very rare but I love it because it keeps the stock lines and looks sleeper :)

Feel free to ask away and I'll get that mod list posted as soon as i can

Thanks guys!
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My Sarcastically short mods list :)

  • Eagle Rods
  • Custom Wiseco pistons .020 over
  • Removed balance shafts
  • Patriot Stage II CNC ported head w/ add’l port work
  • OEM Headgasket
  • All new OEM seals/bearings
  • New Water pump
  • Comp cams Street/strip HighRPM 222/224 duration 456/453 lift
  • Si stainless valves (1mm oversized)
  • PSI 1530ML valve springs
  • Trick Titanium retainers
  • GM adjustable cam gears
  • TurboTech Racing Lower Motor Mount
  • RK Sport Upper Mount
  • LSJ Valve Cover w/ Brandon Fetter Custom PCV Setup
  • Cusco Polished Catch Can
  • Stainless Braided PCV Lines
  • Prothane Front Trans-Mount
  • Prothane Rear Trans-Mount
  • HP Tuners
  • Cat Delete
  • LSJ Ecotec Engine Plate
  • Brandon Fetter Intake Manifold
  • LS1 Port and Polished TB
  • Brondon Fetter Aluminum Coolant Tank
  • Brandon Fetter Custom Turbo Intake
  • T3/T4 57 Trim Stage III .63 a/r
  • Tial 50mm BOV
  • Exhaust Side & Down Pipe Nitro Plate Coated
  • Tial 44mm Wastegate
  • Brandon Fetter Equal Length Manifold Nitro plate Coated
  • 30x8x3.5 Front Mount Intercooler
  • 750cc Injectors
  • 2.5" Aluminum Hot Side Charge Pipes
  • 3" Cold Side Charge Pipes
  • 3" Mandrel Bent Turbo Back Exhaust w/ DMH Electric Cutout
  • Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler
  • 2010 Camaro Exhaust Tip
  • Custom FMU

  • 17x7.5 Focal F05 Wheels
  • Drag Wheels: 16x8 Maxxim Advances
  • DOT Radials: Hoosier Quick Time Pro
  • Falken Azenis RT615k Tires
  • RK Sport Pro Street Coilovers (soon to be STD Standard Coilovers)
  • Eibach Camber Kit
  • Prothane Control Arm Bushing
  • Cryotreated Powerslot Rotors
  • Hawk Ferro Carbon Disc Brake Pads

  • Short Shifter
  • Power Locks
  • Sunfire Gauge Cluster
  • Aftermarket Rostra Cruise Control
  • Tenzo R Racing Seats
  • Corbeau Racing Harnesses
  • Sparco Sliders
  • Innovate LC-1 Wideband w/ XD-16 Gauge
  • Autometer Phantom II Electric Oil Pressure Gauge
  • Autometer Phantom II Electric Boost Gauge
  • Autometer Phantom II Electric Pyrometer Gauge
  • Custom Fiberglass Gauge Pod
  • Greddy Turbo Timer
  • CF HVAC Overlay
  • CF Dimmer Cover

  • Full GM Extreme Tuner Body Kit
  • Mesh In Body Kit
  • CF Invader Hood
  • Tinted Windows 20% Rear w/ 8" 20% Front Window Banner
  • 35% Front Window tint
  • RK Sport Carbon Fiber Rear Bezel
  • CF Front Bowtie
  • 95-99 Toyota Tails
  • Shaved Emblems
  • Shaved Side Moldings

  • Factory MP3 Deck w/ 6 Speaker Factory System
  • Sirius Satelite Radio

  • DRL Delete
  • Air Conditioning Deleted
  • Custom HID Projectors

  • Front Sway Bar Kit
  • PJ Skwirl Solid shifter
  • MSD DIS 2
  • Alpine Stereo System
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yeah its everything thats modified from stock :) good sized list haha.

and I cant wait to have it finished and ready to race this year still.

Getting closer and closer.... still lots to do but each day is progress. I REALLY like the new coolant tank, and also like the rolled edge on it vs a hard edge.
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Very nice work my friend. Did you do the tank yourself? If you did and would be interested in doing some for my Silverado ss thats would be awesome

Great work
I did not do the tank myself. Thats all my fabricator who is a genius. If you were close to him depending on your location, I could help hook you up. I woudl also love to tell you that he can make you something that will fit there perfect, but I know he is slammed working on my stuff and side work in general. For most, they are just a show piece... the stock plastic one dissipates heat better I think, but I couldnt keep it in the stock location so thats my only reason for moving it. I do however love the AN fittings. So much easier/cleaner/tighter.
Oh trust me, i know how hot it can get, just look at the second pic in my very first post in this thread ;)

but even talking to a few twin turbo ls1 guys and larry hamilton formerly of speed inc, now working for ams in chicago, he was the one who said 95% of the time, the stock plastic one will do more than enough. I just needed one since i had to switch locations.
1 3/4" dump tube out of stainless

for SOME REASON, he decided to wash it.... no clue what he was thinking lol.
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