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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, just got a steal, 99 fully loaded Sub for $4600, original sticker I found in the glovebox says $42,000!!! Has 131K miles and I am very pleased with this Chevy. I also have an 86 Silverado 4x2 with a 454 with 172K miles. I've had the Sub for 2 weeks now and I don't care if it only gets 15 mpg's! I want to lift it, put new tires and rims on it and reprogram everything on it, feed it 93oct. My wife is jealous, heh... I want to make it a sand crawler for going on the beaches of NC, so it'll be for the family. Good way to make her not so jealous eh? I hope to learn alot from you guys and I plan on contributing as well with pic's and experience as well.
 

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Welcome in. 1500 or 2500?
 

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Hey congrats on the great deal. And you should be so lucky to get 15 MPG. My 07 still doesn't get 15 even with programming. :gasp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thx MrShorty, it's a 1500, I've not seen a 2500 in... forever. Maybe all the owners are keeping them. This one was made in mexico and has had a mexican owner previously. As far as I can tell, the dude kept it in very good shape, 'cept for a slight engine knock when cold... still investigating, I see a coupe of TSB's: 1 for carbon buildup which requires reprogramming of VCM, and another TSB about a clearance problem of a couple of crank bearings allowing the crank t flex. Not sure which lucky one I drew, but still I don't care even if I have to take the engine out and rebuild from bottom up. Thought it was a dead lifter till I readjusted the valve lash then read the TSBs.

finalday7: Thanx dude, I'm estimating 15mpg, I put $20 in, which is about 6 gallons and is gone after about 3 days, 3 days=120miles approx. I think highway is gonna be WAY diff than city on this beast because it's got a really nice 1500RPMs at 60MPH. I hav alot of stop and go on my 10 miles into work... I'll keep in touch, specially after I get this programmer!
 

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Welcome to the forum :great:
 

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Congrats on your new toy and welcome to the site!
 

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Great deal on that Suburban. I payed almost twice that two years ago for mine, but still wouldn't trade it for anything else. Welcome to the site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great deal on that Suburban. I payed almost twice that two years ago for mine, but still wouldn't trade it for anything else. Welcome to the site.
That is Scweet! What size tires do you have on there?...
 

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Thanks, they are 285/75/16 Dick Cepek Radial FC II's. Also put a skyjacker 2-3 inch suspension lift under it to give it a little more clearance.
 

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'cept for a slight engine knock when cold...
Correct me if I am wrong but the reasons the engines have piston slap when they are cold is because the vortec engines have hypereutectic pistons that react (expand and contract) to temperature more than normal pistons. That is why they only knock if the engine is cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is some wishful thinking I wish it were true, and thanks for your input. This is straight from the GM Service manual:

"Pistons and Connecting Rods
The pistons are made of cast aluminum that use two compression rings and one oil control ring assembly. The piston is a low-friction, lightweight design with a flat top and barrel-shaped skirt. The piston pins are chromium steel. The piston pins have a floating fit in the piston and are retained by a press fit in the connecting rod assembly. The connecting rods are made out of either forged powdered metal or forged steel. The connecting rods are machined with the connecting rod cap installed for proper clearances and alignment."
 

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Hypereutectic piston

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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“Hypereutectic” means over eutectic. The word eutectic refers to a condition in chemistry when two elements can be alloyed together on a molecular level, but only up to a specific percentage, at which point any additional secondary element will retain a distinct separate form.
Although internal combustion engine pistons commonly contain trace amounts (less than 2% each) of copper, manganese, and nickel, the major element in automotive pistons is aluminium due to its light weight, low cost, and acceptable strength. The alloying element of concern in automotive pistons is silicon. Gold and silver have no eutectic point, which means they can be alloyed together in any ratio, however, when silicon is added to aluminium they only blend together evenly on a molecular level up to approximately a 12% silicon content. For the purposes of this discussion, silicon in this context can be thought of as “powdered sand”. Any silicon that is added to aluminium above a 12% content will retain a distinct granular form instead of melting. At a blend of 25% silicon there is a significant reduction of strength in the piston alloy so stock hypereutectic pistons commonly use a level of silicon between 16% and 19%. Special moulds, casting, and cooling techniques are required to obtain uniformly dispersed silicon particles throughout the piston material.

[edit] The reason for their development

Most automotive engines use aluminium pistons that move in a steel cylinder. The average temperature of a piston crown in a gasoline engine during normal operation is typically about 300C (600 degrees Fahrenheit) and the coolant that runs through the engine block is usually regulated at approximately 90C (190 degrees F). Aluminium expands more than steel at this temperature range so for the piston to fit the cylinder properly when at a normal operating temperature, the piston must have a loose fit when cold.






website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I hear ya, but typically steel cylinder liners are used on aluminum blocks. 1999 5.7 Vortec had Iron block AND heads, hence no steel inserts. You ever taken one of these baby's apart yet?
 

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What I posted was not about vortecs particularly. I was just making the point that the pistons are different material than the cylinders. I have not had a reason to take mine apart yet and hopefully I won't have to anytime soon.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
3" body lift soon

OK, so I finally caught up on all the maintenance issues on the 99 Sub. Had to replace: front rotors and pads, rear axle seals+diff flush+rear brake adjust, 2 front lower ball joints+alignment, front diff flush, tranny flush, brake fluid flush, and mobil 0/50syn oil change. Need to do the transfer case flush, and next on my list is a 3 inch body lift with this package: http://store.summitracing.com/partd...918515+4294924667+4294908014+115&autoview=sku

Now I have rear A/C and on the left side it seem no prob to lift the body off the frame, cept to replace the fuel tank supply and overflow hoses. The coiled brake lines appear to be able to stretch 3 inches. On the right side, I've got the A/C lines which may be a prob. The installation manual clearly states that A?C damage is not covered in the warranty, which seems to tell me there's issues there. I'm willing to tackle them, but I was wondering if anyone here has done a similar 3" body lift with these similar issues... TIA

I've got LT315 75 16 ready to go on this thing after the lift kit.
 

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hey I have a Performance accessories 3 inch body lift on my 95 K2500... I have had zero problems and everything needed comes with the kit (fuel filler hose extension, steering shaft extension, fan shroud ext. front bumper raising brackets, etc.) the only thing it didnt come with was rear bumper raising brackets but I just spent $50 for them. It is going to be a pain in the a** to body lift your burban but it will look great after. As for the 315/75 tires fitting is another issue. they are a 35" tall tire so you may have to cut to get them to fit in (if they fit at all) without rubbing and you are going to need aftermarket rims with at least a 4" backspacing so they wont rub at full turn. Ive never heard anything about the AC being an issue either but mine has a different motor than yours. hope this helps
 
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