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You said you have headers... what kind of headers? long tube headers don't produce enough heat for a standard single wire O2 sensor to work. They have the provision on them, but no one tells you that. you either need to mount a new bung and put the sensor right out of an exhaust port, or get a heated O2 sensor if you're going to mount it by the collector. If they are shorty headers, may be ok, but still doesn't hurt to convert to a heated O2 sensor. Really helps to know if it's throwing any codes and such.

Terminal A&B that he's talking about are on your ALDL connector
http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I had a choice between cheap shorty headers for $200 or the next available sets are in the $850-1000+ range. I had to go with the cheapos. My suburban has the sensor in the y after the two come together. It is in the original position and has to read both to work right. You feel I need a "heated" sensor?

As I read my previous post I saw that it cut off the part about the o2 sensor is new.

The very low idle and cycling a little isn't a dead give away? God damn I'm starting to get sick of this bs with this computer garbage. Its not like it didn't work perfectly before and now after numerous new parts it still won't f*cking work? I stayed with the tbi specifically for the reliability. THEY ARE CLEARLY NOT RELIABLE. my 1974 Monte carlo is better built. More reliable and will last longer. I could not be more underwhelmed by GM past 1974.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
OK...I tried to get the codes by jumping A&B...no codes would come up. However, I mistakenly fired it while it was jumpered. It fired normally and ran up the higher idle (1200) then slowly revved down to 700 as it warmed up. Then purred like a kitten and ran great. I turned it off and it went right back to a very low idle(200-300) and randomly cycling with the check engine light coming on at the lowest point. It seems like the light is coming on only because it is nearly at 0 rpms?

Why would it run fine seeminly like all my sensors and equipment is working nominally and then act like it is garbage? I have short headers and the (new) O2 sensor is in the Y after the two meet and is in the original place.

It also still wont start without priming most of the time?
 

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Patrick, you’ve responded to a six year old thread and the original poster hasn’t been on here since about a month after that last post.

We’re glad to have you here, but let’s give you better service. Open yourself a new topic with all the information about your truck, what it’s doing, and what you’ve done to it: mods, fixes, etc.

If you open your profile page and add your truck info to your signature, it saves retyping it every time you start a new topic.
 

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Unplug the TBI take a.9 volt battery and touch the prongs on the tbi's and if they click ur tbi's are good if not they are bad and u can do this right on the vehicle,I'm have a power issue on a 1993 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.7 but my FBI chk out good.
 

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Site locks up if I try to edit...after reading up on this issue I replaced the tps with another I had. Same results. Wasn't able to read any voltage whatsoever out of the three wires going to it. So tps isn't it. Now what? Buy more new parts till it stops? Seems to be the most prevalent answers on most sites.
I was going to reply and noticed this is from 2012.
I am having the same problem on my 93 Silverado. No pulse to the injectors. I replaced the sending relay to the pump, the pump, coil, Map sensor countless other small parts. I can make it run with a 9V battery across the injector. I am going to try to chase some ignition on voltage but am afraid that i am replacing the ECM. Does anyone have any other suggestions before I trey to get the right ECM?
 

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Did you accidentally trip the security system, it will shut off the injectors?
 

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Good thought, Ray, but it wasn’t a feature in ‘93. Started in ‘96.
 

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Haha, well that rules that out Greg, thanks.
 
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