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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!
I've owned my 1981 K5 for 10 years (all stock and original except the paint)
the engine is getting tired, so I got one of the last OE replacements from my local dealer
p/n 19420194 this is as factory "stock" as they come for 350's.
I am in the process of collecting parts to make it all work (I'm going as OE as I can for everything)

My question is about oil and the filters, I have not run the engine yet and need to follow the break sheet it came with as well as well.
My local Indy parts house I like to support has the following 10w-30 oils

AC Delco 10w-30 semi-syn (p/n 19419416)
Motorcraft 10w-30 semi-syn (forgot to write pn down)
Motorcraft 10w-30 diesel conventional
Total 10w-30 quartz 7000 semi-syn (p/n 220085)

Are these oils OK for flat tappet? I remember awhile back hot-rodders would say normal oil will chew up flat tappet cams and you need royal purple, redline, etc...

ALSO- oil filters. Is it OK to use the longer AC Delco PF932 which is like a +1 quart filter or does that not do as good a job as the stock PF1218?

Does WIX make a better filter?

Splitting hairs, I'm sure. Thanks.
 

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My 2 cents, don't use any of those oils.
Flat cams and lifters need zinc, more precisely zinc phosphate.
Zinc will bond with the steel to produce a thin surface that prevents metal to metal contact.
But here's the problem, zinc will destroy the cat(s), that's why we went to roller surfaces.
 

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Sorry, should add that one source of oil with zinc is racing oil.
However, you may find something else out there that has it.
Also my 2 cents, blended synthetics are a waste of money. Oil, like a lot of other things, is only as strong as it's weakest link. In my opinion, that week link is the conventional oil portion. In my opinion, blended synthetic is no better than conventional oils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I wanted an opinion on the filter. I will go high zinc oil, my local shop has Redline 10w-30 oil I'll go with that after break in, and I think Castrol GTX 10w-30 conventional for the break in period (the manual the engine comes with says use conventional for the break in) U
 

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I use a straight 30 weight conventional oil plus this GM EOS with high zinc content.
Photograph Light Product Fluid Liquid
 
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No,no,no,no,no,no,no kind of synthetic oil what so ever for the first 6000 miles at least. The rings need to seat and ware into the cylinders for at least the first 6000 miles or so after you change the brake in oil at 500 miles. 10-30 conventional oil after the first 500 miles of operation, brake in oil is a must. Conventional oil should be changed at no more than 3000 miles. No Castrol, no pennzoil, no Quaker state, no diesel oil. Valvoline is good oil, Havoline, is also good oil. It is important to use a good conventional oil for the first 2 oil changes after you run the brake in oil. After that, if you want to switch to a synthetic oil, that fine. Wix is a good brand of oil filter. When you changing your oil and filter @ 3000 mile intervals, it is not as critical to use the very best filter you can buy, but there again, you don't want to run the cheapest filter either. The only filter I avoid is the Fram chepo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Kenny and Ray, point taken-
Driven 30wt break in oil #19336 should be ok for my break in procedure?

update- For after the initial break in, I got ahold of Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 conventional, says right on it high zinc/flat tappet. I'll run that until 6,000 miles, then maybe go their synthetic VR1. However I only put about 3,000 miles a year on it, so I supposed a once a year oil change with conventional should be fine? I'd like to keep this truck until I die and longer the better for engine life though.
 

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