I've been running standard dino 5W-30 and am approaching 85,000 miles in my 5.3L 02 Yukon XL. I was wondering how many of you were running synthetic? I am considering changing to AMSOIL, with their filter or a WIX filter. Any thoughts or suggestions on oil and filters? I'm sure this will spark some disucussion...
Oil Type
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if you check the oil pan, valve covers, front and real seals and oil lines for leaks if none then great goto the syn oil if you got a leak it will be worse with the swap and cost you until you fix the issues. i seen good results with Royal Purpel and castrol but i not swapped in my cars yet.....mike
I am not a fan of synthetic oil, and IMHO Amsoil is a waste of money. Go with any wix filter and use a good dino oil and change every 3k. On a vehicle with that may miles, you add syntetic oil, and you will see all of your leaks -- especially the rear main.
Royal purple is a good oil, but only for high performance motors -- for a truck motor you're just wasting money. That being said, their diff fluid is AWESOME!
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS OR ANY OTHER FILTER MADE BY ALLIED SIGNAL!
READ::rules:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Chevy Parts
Royal purple is a good oil, but only for high performance motors -- for a truck motor you're just wasting money. That being said, their diff fluid is AWESOME!
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS OR ANY OTHER FILTER MADE BY ALLIED SIGNAL!
READ::rules:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
Chevy Parts
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I've had good luck with Mobil 1 5w30 in my 1998 200,000 mile Suburban.I've had it for 2300 miles,and it hasn't use any oil according to the dipstick(this was a pleasant surprise-I expected some use considering the miles,and the kinda thin syn oil).
Mobil 1 is $22 for 5 quarts at WalMart.
Some of the Syns-Castrol-aren't very synthetic.Legally they are, but they aren't much different than a good standard petro based oil.
Never heard anything bad about Royal Purple or Amsoil, but they are usually >$2 qt more than Mobil 1.
I have heard plenty bad about Fram filters, but I like the nice grippy surface-stroke of genius.I only use fram filters in a pinch. I switched to Mobil 1 filters $10-really expensive-but just 2x a year.Purolators "good' filter is supposed to be very good also.
Luck,
Charlie
Mobil 1 is $22 for 5 quarts at WalMart.
Some of the Syns-Castrol-aren't very synthetic.Legally they are, but they aren't much different than a good standard petro based oil.
Never heard anything bad about Royal Purple or Amsoil, but they are usually >$2 qt more than Mobil 1.
I have heard plenty bad about Fram filters, but I like the nice grippy surface-stroke of genius.I only use fram filters in a pinch. I switched to Mobil 1 filters $10-really expensive-but just 2x a year.Purolators "good' filter is supposed to be very good also.
Luck,
Charlie
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hahahah what a good topic...just ordered all the oils for my new truck. Amsoil all around with a Mobil1 filter. IMO the Mobil1 filter is the best on the market, been using it since it came out and have seen many many tests that prove that they are number 1. As far as Amsoil i have personally measured the better gas mileage in my vehicle when you replace all the fluids. and the expense out weighs the intervals. i use the extended life oil and change filter at 5000 and oil at 10000 so the extra money spent today saves me money in 3mo/3000mi.
Just my 2 cents take it how you like :great:
Just my 2 cents take it how you like :great:
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Ive used mobil 1 for yrs til I got hooked on Amsoil best move I ve ever made. I use the amsoil 100 percent synthetic and there oil filter. My truck runs smoother and I get alot better gas miles. It also seems like it has a lot more pep.Im using it in the wifes mini van and also my 05 gto . If you are looking for the best in motor oil Amsoil is it . good luck in what you deside.
The main problem with Amsoil is that they are not certified -- just like royal purple. And for all you folks out there with your rigs under factory warranty, BE CAREFUL!
You know how the stealerships react when its time to do some warranty work, and if you bring in your records and it shows Amsoil or RP, that is their out from having to do warranty work.
You know how the stealerships react when its time to do some warranty work, and if you bring in your records and it shows Amsoil or RP, that is their out from having to do warranty work.
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163 Posts
Actually, that is incorrect. Not to start anything with you but that is wrong. Royal Purple, as an example, meets and/or exceeds both the GM6094M conventional oil standard that applies to most new vehicles from the mid 2000's on( actually that standard has been around a LONG time and has been required off and on for many years but from like 03-04+ it has been constant and is the current conventional oil standard )as well as the GM4781M synthetic oil standard for the hi-perf vehicles like the Vette, GTO, some Cadillacs, etc.... Under the Magnuson-Moss act that is all it has to do to be safe for warranty use. You are not required by law, and thus GM can not require it of you, that you use a GM certified oil. They could only do that if they provided it free of charge to you.
It does not have to be certified and GM can not void your warranty because you use an oil that is not certified to their oil standards. Also, under that law, they, the new car mfg trying to void your warranty, would have to prove that the oil in question physically caused the problem as long as it was the proper weight, rating( more below ), was changed on time, etc.... Not being certified to meet a mfg's spec proves nothing. If they try and void you JUST because you used a non certified oil they would lose before they started as that is not something they can legally do( unless they provide it free of charge as said above ).
What they could try and do would be show that it does not meet or exceed the spec in question and they would lose that as well because RP oil does. Well, at least the 5W-30 which is what is called for in 99.9% of their vehicles regardless of which oil spec is in question( I have personally checked the spec's as I run RP myself ).
What a car mfg can do in regards to setting requirements is the following( in relation to oil and oil changes )...
1 - they can make you use an oil that "Meets or Exceeds" their oil standard. They can't make you use an oil that is actually certified to the mfg's spec however( they certify oils to 1 - provide a list for their customers of oils that do meet the standard and 2 - because they make money off the certification process which is why many companies like RP and Amsoil don't get certified as it is expensive )nor can they make you use any specific brand( again, unless they provide it free of charge to you ).
2 - they can require you use an API( American Petroleum Institute )certified oil that meets whatever level they want( L, M, etc... ). That is not a mfg's spec or test process so they can make you do that. RP is API certified so it meets warranty requirements.
3 - they can tell you what weight you must use also. They can say you must use 5W-30 and if you use say 20W-50 and have a lubrication failure they have you.They can't make you use GM 5W-30 or any specific brand of 5W-30 unless it is provided free of charge to you.
4 - they can tell you when the oil must be changed. If they say do it every 3-5K or by the OLM( oil life monitor )you have to and you can't run extended OCI's like some do with synthetic. They have the legal right to tell you it must be changed by a certain mileage or time period. Exceed those limits and you risk your warranty.
5 - they can not tell you what brand of filter to use or make you use a GM one unless provided free. Just use the appropriate aftermarket filter by application for your vehicle as it will meet the OE filter spec's. However, if you use an aftermarket filter and it fails causing damage to your engine they can refuse to cover it wherein you go after the filter mfg to repair the damage. In that situation the burden of proof becomes yours. YOU have to show the faulty filter caused the damage to get the filter mfg to fix your engine. The chances of this happening though are very slim. Even the cheap filters like Fram can generally go 3K but if you will go longer get a quality filter.
Now this is not to say a dealer may not "try" to void you for this but they will lose if push comes to shove. Get a copy of the Magnuson-Moss act to have for referrence and then also get the spec sheet for whatever oil standard applies to your vehicle. It is simple from there to contact the oil mfg of your choice if they are not certified for that spec and find out if it meets or exceeds the spec. As long as it does you are good. Just get a copy of the oil's test data to show the dealer along with the spec sheet for the oil standard. A simple call to GM about it should straighten it out if you can't get the dealer to back down after proving the oil is okay. Ultimately they will be the ones across from you in court and they are not going to waste their money and time fighting something they know they will lose.
Ok, thanks for the info. I always heard that if the oil wasn't API certified that a dealer would void the warranty. I stand corrected!!
Either way though, if I had a high perf motor on one of my vehicles, I would spend the money on RP oil, but since I don't, I'll stick with Valvoline. But as stated earlier, RP tranny and diff oil is great and that it what I use in my Jeeps.
Either way though, if I had a high perf motor on one of my vehicles, I would spend the money on RP oil, but since I don't, I'll stick with Valvoline. But as stated earlier, RP tranny and diff oil is great and that it what I use in my Jeeps.
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Personally I recommend Mobil 1 and either a PureOne, Delco, or K&N oil filter.
A secondary excellent oil is Pennzoil Platinum. Just about equal to Mobil 1, but I still trust M1 more, and have heard more good things about it.
I don't recommend Amsoil, I read a very comprehensive long term test on it, showing that it actually gets thicker over time, and to the best of my knowledge, these engines don't like thick oil. But if you want to pay for it, more power to yah.
And as far as Royal Purple goes, it is basically the biggest waste of money for a daily driver. Unless your engine is used strictly for racing...but personally, I wouldn't even use it then, I'd STILL use M1.
If anyone else has any questions about oil, explore http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ . Best informational oil resource on the internet.
A secondary excellent oil is Pennzoil Platinum. Just about equal to Mobil 1, but I still trust M1 more, and have heard more good things about it.
I don't recommend Amsoil, I read a very comprehensive long term test on it, showing that it actually gets thicker over time, and to the best of my knowledge, these engines don't like thick oil. But if you want to pay for it, more power to yah.
And as far as Royal Purple goes, it is basically the biggest waste of money for a daily driver. Unless your engine is used strictly for racing...but personally, I wouldn't even use it then, I'd STILL use M1.
If anyone else has any questions about oil, explore http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ . Best informational oil resource on the internet.
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163 Posts
Read what I wrote again( I know it is long ). Thought I was clear but apparantly not. Sorry about that.
New car dealers CAN require that you use an API certified oil. I mentioned that. Royal Purple's regular oils are API certified. I thought you were referring to the oil standard certification issues which in regards to GM would be GM6094M( conventional )or GM4781M( synthetic ). They can't require you use an oil "certified" to meet the spec just that the oil actually does meet it.
From RP's web site( http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html )
RoyalPurple said:
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The guys on Bob's are biased against RP for some reason and while that site is a good one for general oil info I would never go there for a brand recommendation as most are extremely biased towards Amsoil or M1 with a small following for Penzoil Platinum( talking synthetics ). Even when people report excellent test results or experiences w/ RP in their vehicles they, the biased masses there, still try and discredit the product and/or the poster. That place is one big ego fest and "only my opinion is right" web site.
Not really a big surprise though I guess as so many on there are Amsoil fans or retailers and like Amsoil the company they like to trash the competition even when they only tell partial truths or flat out lie. Or, they are enamored of M1 because it can be bought so cheap at places like Wal-Mart and think in some twisted way that makes it the best.
I find it kind of amusing that someone would say RP and Amsoil are not very good oils while saying they would use M1 which uses lesser quality hydrocracked Group III base stocks that are derived from regular crude in much of their "synthetic" product line now( and trying to avoid owning up to swapping to it from the higher quality Group IV PAO or Grouyp V ester base stocks for quite a while )while still charging a premium price. It's fine that you like M1 and all, and it is fine that you don't want to use RP, but quite questionable comments there about RP not being worth anything unless used in a racing application and talking down Amsoil( good product - poor company ).
RP is no more a waste of money for a daily driver than any other brand of synthetic oil out there. RP is a premium synthetic oil and provides all the benefits of such oil. I have used it for years and years in my vehicles, both daily drivers( regular line of oil ) and drag cars( the XPR racing oil ), and it has been a great product. Never had a problem and it has done wonders keeping my engines in great shape. Yes, it costs me a bit more than cheaper oils like M1 or PP but I feel it is a better product and for just $6 more an OC( I pay $6p/qt for RP 5W-30 and M1 and PP run $4.50-$5 p/qt here )I will run the oil I like. Just as you are free to do with M1 or whatever brand you use. I would never dream of telling someone M1 is a waste of money in a DD. Makes no sense just as saying that about RP does not.
The only thing I would agree with you on, sort of, is the Penzoil Platinum. Actually, if you are so big into Bob's oil site you will see that it generally returns as good and even better test data than M1. If I was going to use a Group III based oil PP would get the nod over M1 for me. Better results at a generally cheaper cost and I wouldn't be supporting ExxonMobil in any manner.
Again, not saying you shouldn't use M1 or that you don't have the right to like it. Just saying your commnents on RP are groundless and ill informed.I just don't understand why people have to tear down the competition to make their preferred product look better? Royal Purple and Amsoil are EXCELLENT synthetic oils and anyone using them will be using a great product. Penzoil Platinum is a very good product as well and so is Mobil 1. To each his own but no need to tear down the other guy to pump your choice up.
No offeanse meant by any of this. Just responding to your comments about RP.
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Not a big deal. Just wanted to be sure the correct info was out there as your post was about warranty and to me seemed like you were talking about oil standards not API certification. You simply said certified and never mentioned API. You also say in the 1st post RP is not certified and that using Amsoil or RP can void your warranty just FYI hence my reply.
Have a great day. :great:
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Isn't that the truth.
arty:
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Thats good,,, now I can take my armor off
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every one has there opinion just like me and here it is if amsoil and rp are such good oils why do the refuse to let there oils be tested to be api approved ???....personaly i will stick with a standard oil like valvoline before buying either one of the 2 oils that refuse to get api approved... if they want me as well as others to trust there word that it is as good or better than api that would be like asking me to beleave a pollitian that there working for the well being of all
Dan
Dan
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