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Discussion Starter #1
Who can tell me what this fuse goes to?



I'm sifting through my schematics right now, and let me say, holy crap!
When you're not sure where to start looking, this makes it much like the preverbial "needle in the haystack"
Which begs the question, why the heck would you ever have a needle anywhere near a haystack? But I digress...

Back to the fuse. It's in line with something that is causing a draw that keeps draining my battery. I'm hoping someone may have some experience with this fuse, and can help me before I start going crazy from staring at schematics all day:lol:

To clarify, this is on my 1993 Suburban K2500, w/7.4

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Please don't make me beg...
 

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I think that's the TSCC fuse, which was an option only on certain models of the 1993 Suburban.

TSCC stands for Time-Space Continium Controler and it plugs into the optional Flux-Capaciter module. It came after a few years of R&D from a crazy old white-haired scientist who did some experiments in the 1980's.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Shoot! That's the problem. I took the flux capacitor out last week, and threw it away.
Dang it!
 

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I think that's the TSCC fuse, which was an option only on certain models of the 1993 Suburban.

TSCC stands for Time-Space Continium Controler and it plugs into the optional Flux-Capaciter module. It came after a few years of R&D from a crazy old white-haired scientist who did some experiments in the 1980's.
Wow I didn't even see that coming. What a sarcastic bugger! :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well aside of the missing flux-capacitor, what else does this fuse go to?
 

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Is that a 15 amp fuse in there? I was thinking washer fluid pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No, it's a 20 amp, sorry should have posted that earlier. But thanks for the suggestion, I'll check that now.

However that's not it. washer pump seems to run off wiper fuse.

Keep the suggestions coming please:great:
 

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When you follow those grey wires are they going back into cabin?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They go into the middle of a big fat covered loom. It's hard to see which way the wires are running either toward the cabin, or toward the battery. But I shall poke around some more
 

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One might wonder why that fuse is all by itself under the hood. Maybe it's something that needs to be checked quickly with the hood open? Something to do with emmisions control? Maybe ABS?
 

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Have you been running it with the fuse out? Could it be for the fuel pump?
 

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how did you even trace your problem to that fuse? pulled every one until the draw stopped? I'd pull the fuse, find out which wire is the power side, and which is the load, and put a toner on the load side of the line. Take the probe and start ringing out the line. However, you may not have a toner and probe...is the hot side switched, or always hot? It may be the underhood lamp or something stupid like that
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm thinking there's more to this than meets the eye with this fuse. For some reason I'm thinking it's the ECM fuse. I actually haven't run the truck yet. I'm getting ready for the first start since the rebuild, but I've been chasing shorts in the starter, and this one which drains the battery.

I just plugged the fuse back in, after letting the truck sit, and the TBI made a funny noise, like the sound of a plunger opening. Couldn't pinpoint it, so I'll have to listen for it again. I also heard a humming noise, and followed the sound back to the fuel pump which was running with the truck off, and the key in my pocket. So go figure there.
I wonder if the ECM went bad or something.

I'm still on the hunt for this fuse's purpose. So if anyone knows please donate your opinion, or knowledge.



PS: I don't own any short circuit testers/ or line tracers, so I'm stuck doing it the hard way. I have a multimeter, and that's it. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I Found it!

One thing that I kept missing, and the schematic had it in plain sight, even though I must have over looked it about 12+ times. The fuse is for the fuel pump, and the cause of the closed circuit causing the pump to run constantly was the oil pressure sensor, which has a switch built into it for the fuel pump. My sensor is apparently bad. It should be normally open when there's no pressure, but my circuit is normally closed.

So, off to the parts store to get a new oil pressure sending unit.

Thanks for all your help everybody who contributed, except for your first post Steve.:winktongue:
 

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Interesting, if you had the 6.5TD engine I that would have been something I suggested you check (they go bad alot) but I wasn't even aware that engine had one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Interesting, if you had the 6.5TD engine I that would have been something I suggested you check (they go bad alot) but I wasn't even aware that engine had one.
The funny thing about this is that even if a total loss of oil pressure occurs the pump is not going to shut off, and save the engine. So I'm not sure why the oil sending unit has that switch in it at all. The switch ties into the fuel pump's power in parallel, not in series. So it's pretty useless.

Unless....It's a giant conspiracy to drive me crazy for two days.
If so, it worked:great::lol:
 
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