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My right rear power window on 2002 Suburban stopped working. All others work fine. The fuse is a bigger 25a that controls all of them, and it seems to be fine. Does this sound like a burnt out motor? Any help is appreciated.
 

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Re: Power Window

The way I would check is to remove the door panel unplug the power window motor harness in the door, and with a multi meter or voltage tester check to see if you are getting power up to that connection.If so then run a individule ground and power from a power supply (your battery) to the motor side of the connection and see if the motor works if it does'nt the burnt motor needs to be replaced.PS when checking for voltage from the switch side make sure to opperate the switch up or down to let the current go to the plug you are testing. And double check your polarities when bypassing the switch. Hope this helps.
 

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You could try and test that switch also I noticed that my RR door switch burnt out and once the switch was toast that window wouldn't work from the drivers master controls or the RR controls. New switch and all was well.
 

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the '99 and up trucks and '00 and up new style burbs have a cable system to operate the power windows. the cable is notorious for breaking. normally the LF window dies first, but it could happen to any window as they all 4 use the same set up. if the cable is broken you should be able to hear the motor running, but the window wont move. if that is the problem the good news is that it is one of the absolute easiest motor/regulator setups to replace. the bad news is it is about a $200 part from GM. They have recently started to offer just the cables, but i have never changed just one of the cables, so i cant say how difficult it would be to replace. truckernate's method of checking the motor is a good one, but remember that the motor is a reversible dc motor, applying B+ to one side and ground to the other should make it go one way, reverseing your connections should make it go the other direction. also, being that everything on that vehicle, including the windows, is computer controlled, so before you start testing the harness side of the connector find a wiring schematic or you could cause more problems than you fix. occasionally, if the brushes are stuck, you can smack the bottom of the door with your fist and make the motor run. if that is the case the motor is junk and needs replaced. generally that only happens with older window motors that have been getting slow anyway. good luck
 
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