Look at lifts for 1/2 ton 1973 to 1988 GM trucks. The front and rear components were changed very little over the years. 2wd truck lifts over 4" will be a little harder to find because of the front suspension, the steering and geometry get bad. Off the shelf rear spring lifts go as high as 6". At one time it was popular to convert to 3/4 ton rear springs to compensate for the extra rear weight Suburbans carry.
Rear Leaf Spring Length
I am looking at ordering a 4" lift kit from Rough Country since I can't find any taller lifts for 2wd Suburbans, but they only offer blocks for the rear springs. Be it that my leafs are already starting to sag some and blocks cause axle wrap, I want to replace the leafs with new lift leafs. I haven't found any sites that will show me a 4" lift spring for my exact truck, I'm going to have to jump up or down a few years probably. However, across the board I keep seeing 2 different spring lengths, 52" and 56". I have no clue which one I have. Now, I have to admit I haven't tried to go measure them yet (been busy), but how would I measure how long of springs I need. Would I go from mounting hole to mounting hole, or the actual length of the spring itself. And of course, will other year springs fit on the 1991 Suburban? Thanks
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I have IFS coil springs in the front, and leafs in the back. However, I'm pretty much just looking for the rear springs, so that shouldn't matter. I was considering upgrading all my suspension and driveline to 3/4 ton equipment. Would that give me a considerably rougher ride? I'm expecting the ride to not be as nice once I lift it, I just don't want to get rock hard. As of this point in time, unaltered, my suspension feels similar to a greyhound bus, nice and smooth.
Skyjacker sells a soft ride kit for 1/2 tons that retains the stock feeling and lifts up to 4".
The 3/4 ton would be a little firmer.
Your gonna get a serious nose down attitude with lift in the rear and factory height in the front.
The 3/4 ton would be a little firmer.
Your gonna get a serious nose down attitude with lift in the rear and factory height in the front.
Oh, you misunderstood me. I found a supplier of the 4" lift spindles for the front already, Rouch Country. I'm just now trying to source the rear springs before I buy anything. I'm going to be 4" lift all the way around. :glasses: I was also looking at getting the steering stabilizer upgrade for the lift spindles in the front. Will that make steering more difficult with factory-sized tires on the front? I figure "might as well" get it if it doesn't make typical steering a bear.
I believe your rear springs are the same as my Jimmy!! Just look for 4" lift leaf springs, usually sold with 6"-8" lift kits, but you can get them separately. I just did those over the summer, I'll never do blocks again!!
4" lift springs sold in 6" and 8" kits? By lifiting the truck 4" all the way around, am I going to make it uneven or something? I have seen "leveling kits" for pickup trucks in the past, but never understood why you would need a leveling kit when you are at factory ride height? Are all trucks not level? I'm confused now....I believe your rear springs are the same as my Jimmy!! Just look for 4" lift leaf springs, usually sold with 6"-8" lift kits, but you can get them separately. I just did those over the summer, I'll never do blocks again!!
I called a local Skyjacker Dealer, and provided I have a 52" spring length, I can get the leafs for 262.10 each, 2 needed of course. And $400 for the lift spindles...that'll give me a total of about a grand to do a 4" lift. Bit high, but I'll get this bad boy picked up 
Running stock size tires with lift spindles a stabilizer wont be neccessary. You arent changing geometry of the steering or increasing road patch. If you go to bigger tires I'd try driving without stabilizers a little to see if the set-up produces any bump steer. Most trucks running stabilizers dont require them, the owners buy them thinking they do, or for looks.
$1000 may sound high but you'll have a quality lift with little or no issues, it'll pay off by being a better handling truck.
You may want to look at replacing the front coils when you add the spindles, 168k is a lot of miles and I'm sure their sagging some.
Quality shocks will help the package also. On bigger trucks I prefer Rancho RS9000 adjustables. But I'm sure their are more opinions on shocks than their are shock manufacturers.
Look at your driveshaft before starting the lift, you may need to extend it some, and with those miles if the U-joints havent been replaced it may be a good time to do that.
$1000 may sound high but you'll have a quality lift with little or no issues, it'll pay off by being a better handling truck.
You may want to look at replacing the front coils when you add the spindles, 168k is a lot of miles and I'm sure their sagging some.
Quality shocks will help the package also. On bigger trucks I prefer Rancho RS9000 adjustables. But I'm sure their are more opinions on shocks than their are shock manufacturers.
Look at your driveshaft before starting the lift, you may need to extend it some, and with those miles if the U-joints havent been replaced it may be a good time to do that.
If you look at a stock pickup, you will notice the rear sits higher than the front. This is so when you put something in the bed, it will ride level as opposed to "butt down". Guys that don't use their trucks as trucks very often want a more level looking stance.I have seen "leveling kits" for pickup trucks in the past, but never understood why you would need a leveling kit when you are at factory ride height? Are all trucks not level? I'm confused now....
I got my 4" springs from Fabtech for about $130 each. 4" Rear springs will not make your truck uneven. 4" springs are usually sold with 6" and 8" kits with blocks. Shop around!!!
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