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I would have tear the seats apart again, but when I did, it was leather, then foam, then metal frame. I never saw a heated pad, which is what I was looking for to start. Since I didn't see a pad, that's when I tore into the passenger seat and felt the blower blowing for a couple minutes with enough heat to get my hand pretty warm.
 

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That may or may not help. If that truly is the real deal, and it has the pads, they must be embedded in either the foam or the leather covering. Or somebody stole them which would explain their lack of heat. I really am going to have to get her Tahoe back and tear the seats open again. I thought that little tiny blower was too small to have heat exchangers in it, but I am still surprised at the heat that it was blowing. Thanks for finding that RayVoy. Not sure I will get to work on that, but when I do I will post the results one way or the other.
 

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Hey Josh, your welcome, didn't want you chasing the problem in the wrong place. I am at a lose to explain the amount of heat you felt from the fan. After looking at the drawings and my truck, I appears the fan gets air from the rear of the seat back at the base of it.
 

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I don't think that is how the Tahoe is, but I don't have it here. When I do get a hold of it, I will try to remember to take some pictures so you can see I am a dumb donkey....I mean that I am NOT a dumb donkey.

And hope you are right about the heating pad. That seems like an easier fix.
 

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Haha, I'm sure your not.

There is probably a good answer. You saw nothing, no wire going to heating pads/coils/elements
 

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Nope, no wires, coils, pads, elements, gremlins, anything. I only had the front and sides of the leather off. And I saw some wires that I thought were going to the back rest. I need to inspect closer I guess.
 

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Good luck, the control module should be under the driver's seat
 

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Hi I am new to this forum I have purchased a set of 2005 Suburban seats I want to put them in a 90 Chevrolet short bed truck I've got the passenger seat to work like it should the driver seat has a memory module under it I can power of the orange wire ground the black wire and nothing happens I can add power to each motor individually in the seat what I can manually move the seat that way is there a way to make the seat work through the module all I want is the movement I don't need the memory part or the heated part if someone could help with the wiring of this it is connector c305 on the wiring diagram that I'm trying to connect to
 

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You can get diagrams of the 2005 at gmupfitters.com. I don't know if they go back to 90. You'll have to look and see.

Ted
 

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You can get diagrams of the 2005 at gmupfitters.com. I don't know if they go back to 90. You'll have to look and see.

Ted
I have looked at the whole seat wiring diagram . What I am having trouble with is . Is there a way to make it work without a body Control module I can unplug each motor and make them move . But the seat control switch is going through the module. I'm not sure if there is a way around the class 2 data
 

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Here is my problem and I am losing hair as we speak. I have a 2005 gmc yukon.
1. The heated seats don't work at all but the passenger switch will light up and I will hear a click under the driver seat
2. Memory seats don't work
3. Adjustible pedals don't work.

Would this be the memory seat module or the driver side heated seat switch in the door? Thank you everyone
 

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My 2004 GMC Yukon Denali has similar issue. No power on drivers seat adjust. No memory seat function. No seat heaters either front seat. Passenger seat power seat still works. Have read lots of posts on various forums. With this condition I have narrowed this down to a bad wire(s) or connection or the memory seat module. I discovered the associated fuses (at least I believe these were correct) with the seat function and removed them and reinstalled them and everything was restored for 2 days then its back as stated above.
If you want to try the experiment I did...in engine compartment fuse box remove the RR HVAC 30A and HVAC/ECAS 10A fuses check and reinstall. In left drivers passenger compartment fuse box remove the 25A circuit breaker (silver and bigger, only one that looks like that) and reinstall. I believe this effort recycled the memory seat module however I cannot duplicate that resolve again. I have heard that unplugging the module and reconnecting will give a one time function. I have not tried that as it is hard to get to for that, maybe later. I am headed for the loose and poor connections then if no resolve, headed to the module test or replacement.
 

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This is a followup to my previous post...
I found the 14 pin connector left rear of drivers seat had orange wire discolored as though it had been hot. Its hard to actually see if the pin contact is failed but I could recreate the condition and correction at will by moving the connector as I was operating the seat control. Since I am sure this is the issue and not the module, and is relatively easy to get my hands on it...I only applied some dielectric grease to the connector both sides and put it together and will see how it goes. In the attached picture you can also see how the multi strand wiring wraps around the bottom seat frame creating another potential fail location for this system. I wrapped these wires with electric tape and secured the tape with small wire ties to provide additional protection . They didn't appear compromised at this time but...you never know. The yellow connector is the seat back air bag system.
DR under seat elec conn 1.jpg
 

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Usually the best fix is to by-pass the connector.
Cut the wire (I think you said it was orange) on both sides of the connector. Buy a new single wire connector and splice it between the two orange wires. You now have a good clean connection and still have the ability to open the cable.
Btw, solder and heat shrink the splices.
 

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Hey Jamm3r! Great info! I have a question for you; Can you please advise on the following problem(s) with my 2004 Chevy Tahoe? 1 - my drivers side heated seat randomly comes on and off, and each time there is a "click" behind the dash instrument panel specifically behind the speedometer cluster. I thought the problem was the lower heat bladder in the seat, so I purchased a replacement from the seat shop and plugged it into the seat before installation to test it, and the replacement did not heat up either. The seat shop suggested that the power seat control module may be bad...thoughts? 2 - Also, not sure if this has any connection but the master power window cluster is not working correctly; the lock/unlock button will not work and the window buttons all will lower but to raise the windows, you have to pull each button will a lot of pressure to get them to raise. All of the windows at the other doors work great by themselves. 3 - when I open the driver door, randomly the overhead light will not come on, which I believe is a bad actuator...any advise for these issues will be appreciated!
 

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Sometimes the Driver side gets beaten on. I replaced every switch and the window actuator on the drivers side and now two years later looks like the pass side window is going. Under $100 and just one and half hours and not to hard to do as well.
Good Luck.Eric
 

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Yeah Eric besides getting "beat on" when the door controls all start acting up it's sometimes caused by rain. Whenever the door gets opened in the rain those switches take it on the chin. After a bunch of repeats you start to see problems. And it might be months since the last rain so it gets overlooked.

Ted
 

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Sometimes the Driver side gets beaten on. I replaced every switch and the window actuator on the drivers side and now two years later looks like the pass side window is going. Under $100 and just one and half hours and not to hard to do as well.
Good Luck.Eric
Thanks BIGREDDADDY53! I am looking to replace those switches; where did you purchase them for under $100? Do you think that is why the "clicking" is going on behind the dash instrument cluster?
 

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Hi Austinartist:
I got all my switches from RockAuto.com. When my seat heater stopped working it happened when my older son put his on and it made a click sound and both went out and my side stopped working so I replaced the switches and replaced the seat heaters (Both) and the bottom seat foam w/new leather seat as well I realized why the heater kept going off. Both old heater pads were burnt ( top had the most damage) and they must have had a short in them. I got the foam from www.1aauto.com and the leather I would have to check but I think it was theseatshop.com. I just looked at the link
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rical-switch+&+relay,seat+heater+switch,10781
If you have the adjustable pedals looks like about $116 US. I did mine a few years back and was less back then. When I replaced everything I was surprised to see the back heater pad had a lot of the burn marks (supprised that it didn't catch fire), I put a new one in and kept the original top of the seat because it wasn't the part of the seat that wears. Good luck
 
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