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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would like your feedback on how I did this. I followed an old manual.

Used Chiltons - Ref.28625 Full Size Trucks 1999-2006 GM

I think I had the trans done at 1000,000(dealer full flush) but been a while for for the rest(afraid to check my book) and know this is a neglected part on trucks in terms of changing and monitoring. All runs well before doing anything. Trans, 4x4 etc.

Rear Diff

Used a reciprocating pump to remove gear oil (black, not the best) and replaced with Valvoline SAE 75W90.
Synthetic. Per Chiton filled to bottom of fill hole if using synthetic. No metal fragments. Yes, I should remove back plate to empty fully. May empty this again but remove back plate.

Front Diff.

Drained since has drain hole and fill hole with 80W90 GL-5 Gear oil. Old oil similar color to fresh oil. Slightly dirty.
No metal fragments. Filled until 1 5/8 below fill hole if using non synthetic per Chilton. Used wire with right angle to measure amount below fill hole...

Autotransaxle.

Drained since drain and fill hole available. Used AutoTrax II and blue color of fresh oil was similar to old oil coming out but has some tiny metal shards ( mm).

Automatic transmission.

Just doing a drain with new oem filter and gasket. Using DEX IV. Need to review order of removing bolts if there is a sequence.

Oil

Changed it but plug leaking slightly and bought a new OEM. Never changed plug. Lucky I guess.

Before you do this get the right funnels, etc to make your life easier. Also sometimes its hard to find the fill and drain plug if you have not done in a while. Maybe just me. Put a tarp under whole truck and bricks to hold it down in case of spills. I seem to be a messy person.

U JOINTS

No play. How long do these last? Don't feel like seeing front and rear break and roll into gutter. Happened to me as a landscaper as a youngin on an old F150. Frickin Hilarious. Called my my boss and said drive shaft is in the gutter.
 

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Wow, you did a lot. How long it took you?

Rear diff:
It's better to drop the cover, clean the bottom of housing, clean cover and inspect clean magnet. Tilt one wheel at a time to drain oil sitting in axle tubes both sides.

4L60e tranny:
Drain pan and filter change is fine.
Still better than doing nothing at all. Oil pan removal, I always start from outer to inner pan bolts. Installation is reverse. Torque to 90 inch-lbs I believe. Could be 96.

U-jounts:
I drop the drive shaft and inspect cups and needle bearings rotation smoothness or roughness.
Very easy and very light aluminum construction. Just don't dent or ding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I still have to finish transmission but work full time and only able to spend a few hours a night. Weekends other things going on. So about two weeks. Thanks for the tips on rear end, tranny and especially ujoints since original and worried about the condition.. Now I know what tranny I have since I think there are two. For all part use vin to get right part. Thanks and take care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I still have to finish transmission but work full time and only able to spend a few hours a night. Weekends other things going on. So about two weeks. Thanks for the tips on rear end, tranny and especially ujoints since original and worried about the condition.. Now I know what tranny I have since I think there are two. For all part use vin to get right part. Thanks and take care.
Finished the transmission.4L60e

Comments

1.Could not drain fluid. Bolt head all banged up and dealer was last one to work on it. They did a full flush at 100,000 I think. This is my first time but just doing a drain and filter replacement.
2. Using some finesse, dropped pan and did not have to loosen up any exhaust pipes or shift linkage( used a long screw driver to bend it a little) , Only removed heat shield.
3.Bolt drain- cut a cross in the head using the dremel and then used my air chisel to turn it. Took a few minutes and this bolt was on there like someone used an impact wrench. Thank god for a big compressor( 60 gallon) and a good air chisel Ingersoll. Careful doing this you can puncture the pan very easily or yourself.
4. Removing the filter seal took some time since you don't want to gouge the metal but you need to get this metal ring /rubber stuck in there.

Also took off all my step rails which was a nightmare. The step is easy to remove. It's the brackets. The gun rails have some holes but not as bad others I have seen in the rust belt. Need to weld in new metal.

All back together, fluid in and no leaks. Just drove back and forth on drive and need t recheck fluid. Will test drive soon. Too many cars in the way.

Would like to know if I can use my vacuum pump with a trap to remove all fluid from dipstick or will the line I put in damage something inside. I see people doing this but they need to know you need a quality trap to handle the vacum otherwise it implodes and ducktape flask to minimize flying glass.

Oh, I use Dawn 4X to remove oil spots. Does a great job on ducks and concrete. Ducks are happy..

Thanks
 
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