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So I recently did calipers pads and rotors on the front of my 2010 1500. The first set of rotors lasted about 6 months and started shaking bad on braking. Got a new set under a warranty and they have been in for about 3 or 4 months and its happening all over again. Any thoughts?
 

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Blue, there are at least 4 grades of rotors on the market. Have you purchased AC Delco performance rotors or cheap Chinese ones. There is a big difference in quality and along with that is cost.
 

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Blue, I have the same problem and I thought I had purchased good rotors.
We have a lot of weight to haul down, so the rotors get hot.

Try a better quality set the next time.
 

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Another big one is people don't pay attention to the rears, which if they get hot and glaze, ends up putting most of the desired stopping rate on the fronts, which, due to now being the major braking work, start overheating on even moderate braking, but you in the cab don't realise what is going on, as youjust push the b4ake pedal down a little more to get desired braking which you probably don't notice. Which leads to warped rotors over and over, until you put new rears on. That is what happened several times with our various square bodies.
 

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I have a Express 3500 used as a basis for a class C motorhome. Same problem until I bought some slotted and dimpled rotors with ceramic disks. Amazing difference. This rig is about 10k lbs and braking now is solid and no warping. I did buy the expensive ones that are heavy duty. The slots and dimples let the hot gas dissipate and keeps the rotors from overheating. This is only in the front. The backs are normal stock.
 

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You know @wpatters1229 , a few years ago I will have argued the value of spending money on slotted rotors; but a friend bought a Jetta with slotted front rotors and that car has the nicest braking of any car I have ever driven.
I would think a heavy motor home would see an even greater improvement.
 

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Something else that can help cause rotors to warp is improper lug nut torque. Most mechs just use an air wrench to tighten the nuts with full max air pressure. I worked on a ford F250 once that had a lug nut so tight that I had to use a 24 inch breaker bar with a pipe extension to break it loose. I wondered why the stud didn't break off when the nut was installed. The other 5 were very different as well as some broke loose easily. Metal/bolt/nut stretch is directly related to torque settings.
 

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Good point Silver, I bought a set of torque sticks just to use on wheel lugs. They work great.
 

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‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 5sp xcab long bed
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My uncle worked at a Goodyear shop for decades and he always stressed, Do not ride the impact! Nothing ticked him off more than the rookies riding the impact and not using a torque wrench. One of them ruined a set of rotors on my Dad’s Torino and his brother made them replace them.
 
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Yes...not using a torque wrench can alone warp a rotor. I had a lug nut that had to be drilled out to get it free. If I have work done at a tire shop and can't watch the guy I take it home and re-do the lug nuts my self with my torque wrench after loosening them up. Some wheels can be ruined if they are over torqued and are made of aluminum. Torque specs are there for a reason!!
 
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