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Hey guys I need your help. I can’t find anything about my issue anywhere and have no idea where to start. So driving down the road and my gauges go to 0 my radio turns off and on my door locks go haywire and won’t go over 20mph or leave 1st gear. Also super low on oil the next oil change is coming up but it was almost bone dry. I have a 2013 suburban with almost 170k on it. What do you guys think?
Thanks for the help!
 

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The generation that the '13s fall into have a known problem with the underhood fuse panel, it corrodes and gives lots of power failures.
 

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Typical GM Truck Battery Cable failure causing excessive heat buildup and oxidation in the circuit. Check continuity between ground post on battery and a clean metal spot of the trucks body and in between each terminal on the cables themselves Nominal being 0 ohms or as close to it as possible. With any resistances much higher you should be able to notice the connection points and terminals getting hot to the touch. A lot of load is put on those under gauged power cables so it don't take much to heat up. These vehicles are notorious for this happening all over the wiring harness as well so test, clean up, replace and seal any trouble areas. Unhook the fuse box under the hood and inspect for any oxidation on the circuit board and in each blade terminal were the fuses plug into it. Clean 12v power source connection as well. Make sure you are getting correct voltages to the fuses after reassembly.
Idk if a lot people are just unlucky and buying flood vehicles and that's why SOOOO many GM trucks are having a wide variety of these intermittent electrical issues caused strictly from corrosion infiltrating the connectors and wiring or if it's just another way GM has cut costs to better their bottom line. I'm sure it is the latter.
A bit of advise on preventive maintenance for ANY vehicle. When you first buy your car, take the time out and seal every exposed wire connections and terminals with liquid tape, dielectric grease, carnuba wax spray silicone, bees wax or anything that repels moisture or seals the copper off from the air or any back splash from the road from penetrating any of the wiring insulators or junction connections. I've always done this to all my vehicles and I've never had any electrical issues related to oxidation. Add this procedure into your maintenance schedule to inspect them every 2-4 oil changes, touching up as needed....An hour of your time and $10 out of your pocket will save you potentially thousands down the line.

Here's a link that shows a very common problem with GM trucks and gives a quick break down of how to replace them. There is also a TSB that involves replacing the negative battery cable. Good Luck and let me know if this fixed your problem!



Same issue...same fix...

 

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Bigredburban, once you get your electrical issues sorted out, you should address the oil consumption issue, not good to be driving around with a nearly empty crankcase which has the potential of making the electrical gremlins the least of your worries.
 

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Bigredburban, once you get your electrical issues sorted out, you should address the oil consumption issue, not good to be driving around with a nearly empty crankcase which has the potential of making the electrical gremlins the least of your worries.
If his 2013 is equipped with cylinder deactivation the damage is probably already done.

With cylinder deactivation it causes the cylinders that are shut off to actually wear quicker compared to the active cylinders and as a result they were known to burn oil.

Replace the PCV valve and have cylinder deactivation turned off. If it continues burning oil he can try Lucas oil stabilizer they have a synthetic version.

Very good measure to check the oil level on your vehicles weekly.
 

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We're jumping to a lot of assumptions here, the oil problem could be nothing more than a leak.

And never, never, change parts until testing proves they are defective; sure, some parts are real cheap and not worth a lot of testing time; but when they are easy to test and expensive to buy, test them first.
 

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We're jumping to a lot of assumptions here, the oil problem could be nothing more than a leak.

And never, never, change parts until testing proves they are defective; sure, some parts are real cheap and not worth a lot of testing time; but when they are easy to test and expensive to buy, test them first.
These engines with cylinder deactivation are highly known to be oil burners. 2010-2014 5.3 LC9 there is a lawsuit.

99% of the time it is oil burning.

At 170,000 miles the PCV valve is due so yes change it whether it is defective or not. $5.00 it's a maintenance item.
 

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These engines with cylinder deactivation are highly known to be oil burners. 2010-2014 5.3 LC9 there is a lawsuit.

99% of the time it is oil burning.

At 170,000 miles the PCV valve is due so yes change it whether it is defective or not. $5.00 it's a maintenance item.
Yep, I am aware, I own one of them.

One of the oil consumption issues is due to the location of the PCV, a new valve cover is supposed to fix this problem. Not sure if it does, but his '13 should have the new cover.

I know some of his consumption is due to the engine burning the oil; however I'm looking at it this way. He didn't say how long he owned the truck; but he was surprised by the low level.
Mine uses a quart between oil changes. I have no leaks and a little lower mileage, his consumption should be about the same.
So, I'm assuming if he is a lot lower than 1 quart he has a leak, or it wasn't filled at the last change.

I'll take your bet:D; but I don't know how we'll prove it, haha.

And as for it already having damage due to the AFM, I can't buy it, his only complaint is low oil in the pan; no noise or misfire complaints.

And I don't want to beat up a new guy, new ideas are great; however, I can't justify changing cables without proper testing to prove they have failed.
I know battery cables suffer from acid corrosion under the insulation, and the corrosion can impact the current capacity of the cable. These trucks also use a negative battery cable that has a load monitor built into it and there has been problems with the load monitor; however, there are also know problems with corrosion inside the underhood fuse panel. All I say, is prove where the problem is before spending big money on parts.
 

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Hey guys I need your help. I can’t find anything about my issue anywhere and have no idea where to start. So driving down the road and my gauges go to 0 my radio turns off and on my door locks go haywire and won’t go over 20mph or leave 1st gear. Also super low on oil the next oil change is coming up but it was almost bone dry. I have a 2013 suburban with almost 170k on it. What do you guys think?
Thanks for the help!
Ifyour motor was almost bone dry it more than likely went in to fail safe. When your oil pressure drops below 20 psi it will shut everything down so no damage is caused to
the motor. You will more than likely have to clear the code to reset the computer for it to run rite. Do you have an oil leak? If so u may want to check it daily to keep ur oil pressure up. I would go head and change to oil and filter know and not wait.
 

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Hey guys I need your help. I can’t find anything about my issue anywhere and have no idea where to start. So driving down the road and my gauges go to 0 my radio turns off and on my door locks go haywire and won’t go over 20mph or leave 1st gear. Also super low on oil the next oil change is coming up but it was almost bone dry. I have a 2013 suburban with almost 170k on it. What do you guys think?
Thanks for the help!
It looks like some good answers have been given. At first reading it sounded like you were at the RR crossing in Close Encounters of the Third Kind :)
 

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And as for it already having damage due to the AFM, I can't buy it, his only complaint is low oil in the pan; no noise or misfire complaints.
Damage from AFM does not mean it will have noise, rattling, knocking or misfire. It usually results in slightly lower compression that increasingly gets worse over time and excessive oil consumption. That damage cannot be reversed but you can help preventing it from getting worse or to the point it causes misfires, etc by keeping up on your oil.

I also am strongly supportive of Prolong engine treatment that stuff works I honestly do not care what anyone says I have had family who had a damaged oil filter on the highway it leaked out all of the oil and drove miles home without oil, Prolong saved the engine it did it's job and did what it claimed and that is "Prevent damage in the event of oil loss" it coats the metal components in a anti-friction coating.

So people who do not pay attention to oil on vehicles which are known oil burners such as these then Prolong can save you an engine replacement.

12 oz ENGINE TREATMENT (prolong.com)

I use it in all my vehicles.
 

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Hey guys I need your help. I can’t find anything about my issue anywhere and have no idea where to start. So driving down the road and my gauges go to 0 my radio turns off and on my door locks go haywire and won’t go over 20mph or leave 1st gear. Also super low on oil the next oil change is coming up but it was almost bone dry. I have a 2013 suburban with almost 170k on it. What do you guys think?
Thanks for the help!
 

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It looks like some good answers have been given. At first reading it sounded like you were at the RR crossing in Close Encounters of the Third Kind :)
LOL. I was thinking that same thing. That RR crossing they used in the movie was actually here in Alabama.
 
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